I read in an earlier post about average power being the key. that's spot on. peak power means nothing, eg if car A) makes 280rwkw @ 6000rpm and car B) makes 260rwkw @ 6000rpm but makes more down low torque, I can assure you car B) will drive around car A). torque gets you going, horse power keeps that momentum. for the manual guys, I would look at changing your BOV, in between shifts, when you back off the throttle, the BOV opens and vents boost to the atmosphere, an incorrectly sized bov can slow the turbocharger speed dramatically, so a larger/efficient BOV would be beneficial by venting more boost pressure to the atmosphere and not slowwing the turbocharger down, this will result in better boost response when you snap open the throttle. another way around boost response is flat changing, (hold throttle flat and shift gears) this is what the auto guys do !! lol!!! Plazmaman have a new bov, I read it in a thread they posted up, I would really be looking into changing the bov, same goes for the auto cars. From my drag racing experience, if you were to drop a tenth off your 60ft time, double it and subtract it from your et you will get a very good indication of your future et. (this will only apply to cars that dont 60ft very well. eg if a car runs 1.51 60 ft and runs 10 sec et's, if you go faster in the 60 ft then your et wont change much, though your trap speed will drop a little.) eg. if your car ran a best of 12.4 with a 1.87 60ft, and if you were to run a 60 ft of 1.63 your et will be very close to 11.92 1.87 - 1.63 = 0.24 x 2 = 0.48. 12.4 - 0.48 = 11.92