YOOT

Every model of Falcon has the steering shudder, from EB to BA, every single one I have driven shudders in the same way, in the same cuircumstances. Especially with wider tyres. I'm sure the fix works, but my dealer keeps giving me BS about it so I just ignore it. My XT work car does it as well. The steering is 3 times lighter in the XT than in the XR, go figure.

Fair enough - I believe you I am starting to get sick of the ride quality of my ute, its good, but its bloody hard! I never noticed though until I got my compnay car which is an XT with sports kit, and its a magic carpet in comparison. I am also starting to notice the rear shocks feel like the struggle to control rebound. You know when you hit a big pump and the arse jumps up in the air before settling back down? I hate that, it make the car look cheap I reckon. And its uncomfortable. I have reset leafs, do you think its the leafs, the bump stops or the shocks or all three?

that's definetly on the bump stops mate, with the weight you had in the back you wouldn't have felt the difference. The bump stops are huge trianguler things so they are soft to start with then harden up. With that much wieght it would have easily squashed the bump stops without stopping the uptravel hard and fast. My utes lowered the same as every other superlow ute, and there is only 10-20mm of up travel to the tip of the bump stop and I hit them on big bumps regularly, especially at 100kmh, and its hits hard when its empty! Nice effort all the same!

Looks like Brisvegas was safe, Laidley got 8cm hail stones, and Roma and Dalby got golf ball hail. All we got was some rain, I slept through most of it. Up to take the soggy blankets of the work car at 5am

We are in a drought, hacn't seen rain like this in 7 years.

I have about 1/2 that tread depth and the tyres are 24,000kms old. I will just make it to 30K I think, that's ignoring the big cracks across the face of them and splits in the shoulder blocks. Terrible tyre, very noisey and not enough grip. I think it has a lot to do with the 2000kg they have to hold up and the 400HP at the fly.

Nearly here... just a bit further... I tucked the XR in the garage and put the XT as far up its bum as I can :D

SEQ has about 30mins before this puppy lets rip, put your BA's under cover! LOL!

You can test the feature out buy locking it up and then gently applying the accelerator, normally the revs rise instantly and the car plays catchup, but when locked the revs won't move much as the car accelerates locked in gear (same as a manual) - if you hit the gas too hard it breaks lock and you feel a slight bump as it does so (very slight).

In an emergency stop on a slippery wet road? Methinks not. I've been to several happy days at Mt Cotton on both the skidpan and the LVMA and can attest to the performance of the current system. For the tiny bit of advantage you may get on a track, then maybe, but for everyday use I cant see any advantage. Just my opinion mind you...... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I been there too and when I was 18 (1999) I managed to repeatedly outstop a VT Late model camira with ABS in another VT Late model camira with the fuse pulled everytime. But trying to brake at the maximum point of friction in an emergency and turn around an object in the wet at the drop of a hat?? No way, give me ABS, all you have to do is plant it and turn. Job done. In the dry however is another matter... I'm pretty good now

2003/and early 2004 cars have an oil cooler at the bottom of the radiator, all other models have this deleted, only a power steering cooler up the top.

Kings do make both low and superlow leaf springs for the utes... P/n SL = FOR-802 SSL = FOR-801 King Springs Leaf Spring Catalogue Chris <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Wrong, only SL on that page mate, 802 is for XL/S utes and 801 is for XR's. Only SL available and since the SLs drop you as low as the car can go SSL is not an option, except for looks. But I havn't seen any SSL utes that are lower than mine, in fact they are fenerally 10mm higher! However, there was no SL leafs available when I got my ute lowered, so I had to reset the rears. Different story now. Fronts are still SL. And I have lowered my ute twice.

The utes wheelbase is 268mm longer than the sedans, that's over 10 inches!

Mine is lowered on Super Lows, no such thing as SSL for utes as far as I know. You can only get Lows or Super Lows for the front, and Lows for the rear, then you have to reset the rear to match the front. But that also means you can just reset the standard leafs to match anyway. No dramas with speed humps, the front nose gets pulled upwards the lower you make the back. I have 130mm ground clearance.

Can't say I get tramping, just sliding and wheel spin. Manual here.

Thicker guage steel for the chassis rails front to back, extra steel bracing between the chassis rails mainly. Makes up for most of the 100kgs or so excess. My ute weighs 1920kgs with 80L of fuel and me (60kg) with hard cover.

That'll learn ya, flooring it in the wet with 300rwkw.

put it in park

I won't be too far behind you - although I am not parting with a phoon, just a T - I have an XT company car now and I don't need two Falcons. $8K a year will come in handy in my back pocket instead in the ute.

It will be possible, you can do anything you want, just depends on how much money you have, time, and research and development. If you have lots of money, lots of time and lots of reasearch and development then one day you will have one. If you have neither of the above then no you won't have a converted 6-speed auto. Someone will one day and make it cheaper for others to try, however the cost involved initially, the smart money would be to just buy a BF.

Superlows - Superlows - Superlows

Or buy a ute and don't get hit with massive losses like the sedans I paid $36K for my uet 18 months ago and its worth around 32-34K, so far so good. The only thing you will lose out on is modifications.

I had a similar experience, only it sounded like someone through a rock at my car. I couldn't find a mark untill I was washing it the following week. I found a pea sized dent in the little notch on the bonnet beside the grill (above the grill) with some paint missing. Its a very thick part of the bonnet as it bends in a number of directions, and it but a decent sized dent in it. Must have been a big rock! Although you couldn't see the mark because of where it was made.

My diff is the same as yours Goobz - its rooted, I can spin one wheel in the dry going around a corner, but in the straight its a bit of both, sometimes it locks up and sometimes it doesn't. Probably doesn't help having 400HP going through it. I think it costs around $1200 to have a diff fully rebuilt, that includes lapping out the clunk and repacking the clutches so the diff is much closer to 60/40 power split. Very tight!

I think any Turbo charged BA will fit into that category. It will be remebered in 30 years time in the same light as the GTHO is remembered today.