Josh636
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Posts
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yeah he had it hooked up when it was tuned, I have a boost controller hooked up now. lowest boost I can run is about 13psi, with the 12lb actuator, the actuator is a 10psi one I think anyways cos the tuner said he was watchin it and it was starting to open at about 9-10psi. if its a cold night then then the lowest boost is up around the 14-14.5psi mark. more power more exhaust gases so over boost.
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K&M in mount isa, he said he had trouble with tryin to make it boost any more than 12.5. made 317kw on 11psi and 338kw on 12.5psi, on the street it boost to about 15psi on cold nights. that's with the wategate feed straight from the turbo. did a 13.300 at 108mph at townsville. 6 speed manual, also did a 111mph. on the cold nights and boosting upto 14-15psi the clutch is sliping in 3rd and 4th so probably making a bit more power than on the dyno. another guy up here has a bf ute with 319kw with just a capa cooler and injectors and punched cat, he was running 13.5s at the strip too. the tuner said my inlet temps were the best he has seen on his dyno. think they were around 45deg run after run. another ute with stock cooler makin 275kw was round the 65degs
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It hasn't been tuned yet but it still shouldnt run more than 12psi. I have the turbo boost straight into the actuator so no computer controlling boost. Before I changed the housing and the actuator I had the standard actuator hooked into boost and it would run 5psi up untill 3500rpm then start to overboost. now with the 12psi it spikes past 15 without even trying. it just seems like its still not passing enough gas through the wastegate hole. with the bov venting some of the boost it holds 12psi fine.
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So the title says I cant stop my over boost. I have a rapid cooler kit, 4inch dump cat back and just installed a modded housing and 12lb actuator. but still just over boosts. so a few details. I noticed on the 12lb actuator it has 10mm less travel than the stock one. has anyone else still had overboost even with a modded housing? I have the standard bov hooked up without the vac line connected and it opens at about 8psi and vents enough air to hold 11psi but without that set up it just overboost crazy mad.
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it was on the dyno yesterday gettin a custom tune but they couldnt get it to hold any boost. boost came on really late then would spike upto 15psi. then they would shut it off. they said it might be the arm fallen off so I pulled the turb off last nite and it was fine. it holds 5psi to about 3500rpm then just goes crazy. thinking maybe wastegate needs to be ported....
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Im having trouble with over boost. running rapid cooler and 4inch dump, with the vac line straight onto the wastegate actuator it holds at about 5psi then when revs get up around 3-3500 just spikes to crazy high. Would it be something todo with the wastegate not being able to flow enough gas to keep boost low at high rpm? was on the dyno with the solenoid hooked up and it was boosting up late then goin upto 15psi and they couldnt control it. I pulled the turbo off and found the wastegate was opening and closing fine, tested with a pump and it held didnt leak.
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what do you think happens to air after it is compressed by the turbo? why do we have intercoolers? to cool the air that is heated by the turbo.
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Do you have any pics of your rear setup? how is the trailing arms setup? cheers Josh
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yeah for 900$ though I would rather just have my stock springs in and look like a 4b.... I have heard for 800$ I can get some bilsten shocks that the v8 utes use that will stop the tramp.
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I have king springs all round, the rears are about 60mm lower and front about 20mm. Rear end gets crazy tramp with the lowered springs, king springs reckon I need to change my shocks has anyone found that difference shocks have stoped the tramp? I dont want to waste more money if its still gona tramp, looks hot low in the arse but car is useless, cant wheelspin without tramping.
