micky69

ha ha sorry about that comment I didn mean that

there front bar absorber's cost about $55 each

I think that sounds like a pretty good price, I bought my xr last year for $19,000 5 speed with 100,00km's on the clock I think I should of looked around..... I'll sell ya my xr6 for $13,000 right now lol just needs some minor work done to the body but hey at least it's a manual

10.3:1 ratio I believe

I agree, and in my experience well actually having no licence for the next 6 years tells a big story lol. there *beep* the hwy patrol no sympathy towards burnouts, fare enough stupid speeds like 40 over limit but a controlled donut or linelocker or my favourite the fishtailing powerskid. (IT'S JUST NOT CRICKET) in my eyes.

hey mate I can sell these for $40 each that's geuine that's a good savings so if you do go down the road of replacing just let me know, oh and if it may be an injector have you tried disconnecting them one at a time to see if the ticking stops

$99 seems like alot, but it is true that they come with rocker arm assy, I could sell you them probably $50 each maybe cheaper I'll let you know tomorrow

Hi Brad, not sure if you already know as the post is a couple weeks old, but yes you can buy a bare block cost I'm not sure at the moment but will find out tomorrow P/NO is BG6010A

I know this is an old thread but just wondering if any of you's that went saw me down there mercury silver sedan with typhoon front I was cutting burnouts every where, on the friday night I left a great set under the grandstand and on saturday night cutting donuts on the camping hill and on sunday the last cruise left a huge smoke show on the last corner before the straight. (I LOVE MY XR) oh and another thing I'll be there next year for sure, who wants to help me build my car for it I'm in newy need to meet someone with a hoist or big garage I hate my backyard to soft and dirty lol

Oh I didn relise LOL now that I read your signature I figured it out lol I'm a knuckle head

I don't know if anyone has noticed but I don't think that's a genuine xr cluster reason I'm suggesting this because the speedo goes up in 30km/h after 120 I thought only fpv clusters had this I know my ba xr doesn have that mine goes by 20's but then again I have a manual is this maybe different

sending to SA would cost a fortune I'm not sure of which dealers are over there but I'll find out tomorrow the best way to get these cheap is to look for dealer supplier, where I work we by straight from ford itself making it cheap as and then we sell to actual dealers at a dealer cost I don't think a normal dealer would be able to be competative as much to these prices my advise for all ford members is to get in well with your local ford parts manager's LOL I have no friends until they want something LOL

true a retail price is over $3,000 but who said anything about being charged retail, I had a look at my gross profit figure on a short and long motor yesturday at work and I can easily do $2,500 and as I said last month I sold a long motor for $5,800 I call it competative pricing when asked the question by the bosses as to why I sold it so cheap a sale is a sale in my eyes doesn matter if it's profit's a dollar you still make that little bit of coin. in the pic's below you can see the list price for the panel beaters out there you will know what this is for every1 else it means suggested retail excluding gst but dealer's put a further 15% mark up or more on this price to cover frieght and interpreting costs to sell to trade customers we sell it to them at the list price including tax giving them a 10% profit gain selling to customers. and as you can see the short motor list price is $2,494.55 showing that I can sell you a bf short block for $2,500 inc gst

YES TRUE I WILL SELL YOU A BF MK11 BOTTOM END FOR $2500 12 MONTHS WARRENTY I SOLD A LONG MOTOR LAST MONTH TO A MATE FOR $5800 THE BEST THING IS THEY RAN OUT OF BF ENGINE'S SO FORD GAVE US A FG ENGINE SLIGHT MODS TO ENGINE MOUNTS BUT WAS ALL GOOD HE WAS HAPPY AS IT'S A STRONGER ENGINE. IF YOUR INTERESTED GIVE ME A CALL I'M AT KLOSTER FORD NEWCASTLE (02) 49220551 ASK FOR MICK I GIVE ALL THE XR6T BOYS GOOD DISCOUNTS SINCE YOU ALL HAVE BLUE BLOOD LIKE ME LOL

I would love to help but I don't have a credit card is there any other way to contribute to this cause... (also can I sugest that this thread be put in all forum topic's as I'm pretty sure not many people would cruise through this page) all the best anyway let me know

LOL yeah mate it did I built it for power cruise for burnouts little did I know it started the burnout a little early :popcorn: oh well we can rebuild, nah I sold it and just keeped the xr instead

not having a catch can on the sump vent's on the tappet cover, too much boost and a little blow by made oil blow up under the bonnet then dripped onto the high mount exhuast causing a oil fire which on a country back road wasn easy to put out lol learnt that lesson big time lot's of $$$$$ it was pretty tough fried third no worries in the old girl

I agree doing the conversion is more exciting, and satisfaction. I have put a turbo on 5 cars now and it's been a real big learning experience, the five things I've learnt by doing this has been 1.make sure suffiecient oil return 2.disconnect pcv hoses from inlet manifold and join into oil catch can as when boosting it pressurises the sump 3. don't over boost and use premium fuel and a good regulator to stop pinging 4.if useing a copper head gasket the block and head need to be o-ringed 5.HEAT WRAP EVERYTHING, and use an intercooler, car goes much quicker with cool engine bay and air flow oh and always take pic's of your work lol to brag later on saying "I DID THAT MYSELF LOL"

go genuine can't go wrong lol I believe from memory P/NO AGSP32Z-for ba's and P/NO AGSP22YE13 for bf models there not that dear and atleast you now there correct in there gapping and heat range

hb3 is actually what I meant it's above the oil line in the sump, as I thought the guys have backed me up about the banjo bolt idea that's a no no this is were a little more knowledge comes for you there are multiple types of turbo configuration's there is oil cooled and water cooled, and there is ball bearing and wet float turbo's if your using the genuine xr6t turbo then you might be able to get away with my idea into the 12mm whole as the turbo is a ballbearing design that is also water cooled, ball bearing turbo's don't need as much oil flow to keep them happy as a wet float design and at the same time they are cooled by water and not relying on oil this is giving you the opportunity to use my method. if your using a turbo like what I have, it is actually a oil cooled wet float design t3/t4 that needs sufficient oil flow to cool it as well as lubricate the bearing's. I have no choice but to drill my sump this is why my project isn finished "ONCE YOU TAP YOU NEVER GO BACK" LOL. as to what RAPID has said "If the line is too small or doesnt flow enough oil for what ever reason, the oil builds up in the turbo and blow out past the seals into the exhaust... lots of smoke lol" this has happen first hand to me and it's not pretty, I put a turbo on my 2.6lefi courier when I was experimenting a few years back and I was only testing at this stage so I just ran the oil return into the dipstick tube once the engine started and I gave it a rev the oil pressure went sky high and the oil return backdraft until it blew the seals through the exhaust causing egnormous amount of smoke lol I'll never do that again. once again fellas correct me if I'm wrong about the different types of turbo's and there oil needs

I'm sorry to ask the question mate but I don't really understand how that works? If you were to use a banjo bolt where the sump plug goes wouldn the oil backdraft? as it would be harder to flow the oil freely back to the sump many bango fittings I've seen have pretty small outlets, and by some small knowledge that I have bout turbo's they need to release oil twice as much as supercharger's as they run of exhuast causing them to heat up quicker, and as oil acts as a cooling method. this would not be sufficient enough flow for the oil to cool but if I'm wrong, ths pic might be some use for you, the ba sumps have blanking bolts on the side that go straight throw to the inside pull one out and run the oil throught that way if a 12mm whole is sufficient enough people may think otherwise let me know if I'm wrong fellas

not sure what you mean???

nah I don't really have the up front money not good with saving, is it a blue ute I think I saw it on ebay a couple of days ago front cut only.