mrmackie

Not true. The thing that dictates direction of forward rotation of a slotted rotor and thus correct side to mount are: 1. Writing stamped on the rotor that states Left/Right (Right meaning drivers side on RH drive cars (Australian etc) 2. An arrow stamped on the rotor for forward direction/rotaion 3. If your 'internal' veins are curved, you want to place the rotor so the veins are slopping rearward, this is so the air is pulled from the centre part of the stub axle out towards the outside of the rotor. NOTE: If the curved 'internal' slots face the front of the car, the 'hot' air from the rotor gets forced back into the centre of the wheel. Many Rotors purchased, aside from the more expensive units have 'Straight' internal veins meaning they can be mounted any direction you will think the external slots look good. http://www.g35driver.com/forums/brakes-sus...tors-way-2.html P.S: installed mine on the weekend and where a sinch. The hardest part was removing the old ford rotor, which I ended up tapping gently with a copper hammer as it had rusted onto the stub axle. The difference between changing just brake pads, to changing pads and rotors is about 15mins, if that. How good are slotted rotors and good pads though!!!

With a Prowest Battery relocation kit. Sits under the original battery tray, kind of inside the RHS bumper/gaurd. It has short cables to the connection block so no more power loss, alternator whine or any other cons assosiated with the Boot kits.

I had 2 cars aswell: My runaround White 71 LC Torana with 186 motor and 3 on the tree and the weekender, a Blood purple 74' Rambler Hornet, 302 windsor C4 auto. Ahh, and the trips to Bonnie doon, those where the days.... It was the start of the naughty nineties and P plate restrictions had just started in melbourne, P platers whernt alowed to drive V8 cars or turbo'd cars.... FN Ridiculous!!

Not sure mate. What oil filter does the FG use? I just bought a adaptor plate for my BF MKII Turbo (which I found has a different size thread to the BA ones) from Repco, Speco brand, Part#547-53 $40, and is quite good quality compared to others I have seen. The Thread on the adaptor is M22x1.5mm Pitch. If your FG uses an AL101 filter (Same as the BF) then you should be right. Just make sure though that the shop you buy the filter from will accept it back if it doesnt fit. Probably best to buy a spare oil filter (You will use one eventually) and take it to the shop you intend to buy the sandwich plate from. That way you can matchup the thread and seal area, peice of P.

If anyone has removed their shift knob from their ZF6 spd auto, can you shed some light on how its done please, as I want to have a poke around under there. I can get as far as to remove all the plastic trim panels around it, and can even get the plastic gear selector panel and leather cover boot ready to pull off, but it wont lift off over the knob to move out the way (I dont think) without removing the knob. There is a small little leather strip on the top of the knob in the middle of the knob which I assume houses a fixing screw, but I cant get this little strip off, and dont want to force it off as it may break. (I can only lift the bottom section off slightly). Thanks in advance

Your in luck as Justjap have them for $29.95 ea. I bought one for my BF and it didnt fit. The ones they carry only suit the BA

Yeah Smitty, it would be great to see some of those pics. Im sure we could adapt it to suit our current rides and as you say, the same principles are there.

Once you have the swirl pot out of the tank, its just a matter of a little patience, two screw drivers and some delicate force, if there is such a thing. There are two tabs on the side of the pot that need to be held open by the screw dirvers, then the lower section of the pot slips off with force. Take your time and you will do it. Regarding the Walbro's off ebay, make sure the seller isnt selling fakies as it will cost you more in the long run, and as for Gss341/342 etc as most of the guys before me have said, the 341 will be fine, although if you can get a 340, they have a larger inlet and the filter sits nice and flat on the base of the pot, but all will do fine.

Huh? All I can see is a water tank!? Just kidding. Came up perfect mate. Yeah bummer about the whole saga, but good to hear your happy and away again. Cant beleive the cops saying the family are from a low income group and to give them a break. Im like you and many other car lovers and very meticulous about my car, and just love it when people say, "Its only a car, dont be so fussy!". Id love to say back 'Yeah well how about I stick a fork through your cheek and rip a chunk out, as its only your face!' (P.S. I dont encourage violence) What people forget is your car is the second most expensive thing you will purchase (The house or wife being the first, lol). I cant believe so many people lie about the fact they have just smashed into your car. The revenge option is very tempting in those situations, I just wonder where it will end up if you get caught trashing their car after they have hit yours? We need more vigilanties though, I agree!

Thanks champ, will check it out. You have gone into legendary status in my books. lol

I have purchased the Process West Under bumper Air pickup pipe that sits underneith the Battery etc and picks up air from behind the bumper bar. (It does away with the Ford panel airbox on LHS) I purchased it without their foam oil filter and would like to fit a k&n pod filter. Without having removed the front bumper yet, does anyone have an idea as to how much room there is in this area as I would like to purchase a filter to suit without having to remove the front bumper. I.e. I would like to remove and install the kit in one go. Cheers in advance

Great writeup there mate and loved the little bracket you made up. Im yet to put mine in but will use your idea for mine. I noticed you put a ruler for measurments under your template, but is there any chance you could photocopy the templete for us lazy ones here and post it so we can print off and just cut it out?!

WORD!

So the BF's have a 'New Improved' filter?! right......!? I have a BF and have taken the filter out. By the looks of things, your damned if you do, damned if you dont. Time will dictate the right thing to do but as many have stated before, no where else are they running these screens so why in our cars? Im willing to take the risk, but feel the risk is far less without the screen, than with it installed.

I was offered the same PP from ford when buying my 6T. When I asked what the PP actually included (Expecting the car to go to a professional spray booth to have a special coat of clear etc) I read between the lines that the PP stuff is basically sprayed out of a bottle, by hand, then rubbed over the car and buffed off. So I said a big NO THANKS, drove to Supercrap and bought a 3 step paint protection kit made by mothers (But others will do) for $60 and alocated a Saturday to put it all on, saving me $$$$'s of dollars. This PP offered buy car companies would have to be the scam of the century!

Great shots mate and nice power. Still running the standard plenum aswell, very intersting..............

Nice work on those rims mate. Much better looking with the black inners. You car has a nice big carport to sleep in over night!! Wish mine had that luxury, lol

As mentioned in my post (Didnt you read?!?! ) I have put the standard act back in. I have a 12lb act from xr6turbodevelopments I will install at a later stage when I fit up my other 'goodies' and get the edit so it can all be done at once.

Mate if you have an incling of mechanical knowledge, you should be right. You do need some tools and confidence though, as when I first pulled it apart I thought, geezzz what have I done!! but snapped out of it quickly and found my b*&$s again. With any guide, mine included, you should be right at tackling it. All the hard work is done, the photos and proceedure is all here, you just need to take your time and beleive in yourself. Hmm, now I sound like one of those millionare positive speaker types! LOL Enjoy

Good advise I guess for those who havnt done it yet. dohhh! Like I said in my post, the methods and means I used were from a first timer (me) who doesnt do this every day. Any "professional" experience/advise is more than welcome to be added. Cheers MM

Thanks guys, not too bad for a hack like me I guess

Yes the Circlip is tricky to get out but can be done. I was lucky enough to remove mine which enabled me to remove the fine filter assembly completly. I then reinstalled the circlip, just for some extra support for the banjo bolt due to the groove in the banjo bolt for the circlip being quite deep. I guess you could leave the circlip out all together, but cant see it doing any harm being reinstalled.

Ok, so now you have the Turbo out of the engine bay. Find a suitable Flat work bench to mount the turbo on while disassembling. I found a piece of metal (But a piece of MDF or wood could do the trick also) 12mm think, and was perfect to mount the exhaust housing on. I marked the 12mm steel plate with 2 opposing holes from the exhaust housing, and drilled 10mm holes through the plate. I also marked the bench and drilled through that. Make sure you have your parents consent before drilling through their kitchen bench top. The 12mm board or steel must not extend past the exhaust housing towards the centre of the turbo. But it is ok if any extra you have hangs out the other side. The reason for this is, anything that enters the area near the centre of the turbo may get in the way of a bolt etc that your trying to remove. Find suitable bolts and nuts to fix the turbo (Through the exhaust housing holes and plate you have made and fix it firm to the bench. OK: THIS PHOTO SHOW THE TURBO ALREADY APPART, DONT WORRY ABOUT THAT, IM JUST SHOWING MY MOUNTING TO THE BENCH SO YOU HAVE AN IDEA OF WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT. * IMPORTANT: Mark both the exhaust housing and the centre of the Turbo. I used a texta then scribed a small line in, but if you get your marking within 1mm you should be ok. The more accurate the better, but we are not talking thousands of an inch so don’t stress too much. Im glad Jimy from xr6turbodevelopments told me this, otherwise I would have cocked this right up. The centre part of the turbo mounts onto the exhaust housing in a way that once you loosen off the 6 x 13mm lock screws, it can be spun 360deg. The problem with not marking the housing is when you reassemble it, if you don’t have the exhaust housing lined up to where it was taken off, your whole turbo could be upside down making attaching the oil/water and intake to compressor impossible to line up. (I marked mine in 2 different spots) * Remove the 6 x 13mm exhaust housing bolts. These are very tight (hence the need to fix the turbo to the bench). Also the two bolts near the oil drain line can only be undone so much before they foul, so they will need to be undone as you carefully remove the centre of the turbo from the exhaust housing. You could remove the oil return line, but I left mine in as it is one less thing I have to worry about sealing up later (Or even worse forgetting about then refitting the turbo only to find the return line is underneath the turbo and very hard to reach even with a hoist.) I then took my turbo to “xr6turbodevelopments” in melbourne, where “Jimy” did the porting and flapper mod. Jimy is great to deal with and willing to help in any way he can. Looking at my housing you will note it has not been sandblasted or painted and that is because I was in a hurry to have my housing finished and back on the plane trip home, otherwise for the same price, Jimy would have sandblasted and painted the housing. Before: After: After you have had your porting and valve replaced, reassemble the turbo, taking into account the two bolts closet to the oil return flange will need to be inserted and slowly done up to enable the turbo to fit back together (as previously discussed at the start of this thread) Don’t force anything, it will all go back together if every thing is lined up. The Fins on your turbo are strong but brittle (If that makes sense), don’t panic, but just don’t be too rough. Fit the Actuator to the flapper valve with the circlip, but do not fully attach the actuator to the intake compressor, just use the top bolt to hold it to the housing while you fit the turbo back to the engine. After the turbo is all back together, fit it back onto the engine. Note: when fitting back to exhaust manifold, the studs with the nut closer towards the end of the stud go underneath (stud on RHS in photo) (longer useable length) and the other two with less stud length available (LHS stud in photo) go into the top two positions. You can then fit various parts back together as you will now recognize where things came from because you have already removed it! I found I did a few bolts here and there, fitted a few pipes etc. I did find I had to bend the oil and water lines back into position to get them to look neat again. They may of got bent a little while I removed the turbo but no biggy. One last tip. When refitting the actuator, I found that putting my hand under the actuator and by using the tip of the finger closest to my pinky on my right hand and using a pen (Yes that’s what I used) or non magnetic poker, I was able to start the lower most actuator bracket bolt into its thread. Once it took I was then able to use my ratchet spanner to do it up. Not easy but manageable. As I stated in part I of my "Removal of Turbo in preparation of Waste gate mod" thread, this is only one way of doing it. Im sure there are other ways you could go about it. Im no pro, and had no help (apart from jimmy recommending me to mark the turbine housing before disassembly) and did it with only a trolley jack and a selection of spanners and sockets, plenty of liquid refreshemnts and a pen, (blue in color) I put it all back together and ran it over 100 k's traveld with no problems!, putting the boot in at various stages. I havnt moded with edit, actuator or cooler yet. I just wanted to do this while I had some time off work so when it comes time to do my other mods im already 2 days infront and have one less thing to do. Enjoy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks guys for your reply's, and 'Headsex' for your tips. I wish I had your tips before I atempted the removal as this was the main reason I posted this one up because I couldnt find any threads on how to, but I guess now its here for people to take what they want from it. I still have pics and little tips to come, of the removal of the exhaust housing and also of the new port and flapper. Will post when back from melb around 16/17th march

Removal of Turbo in Preparation for porting and larger valve The removal of the turbo is not rocket science, but for those like me who want to attempt it who haven’t before, this just goes through the motions on one way to go about it. It might just give you the confidence to attempt it if you’re not sure of something. Set aside a whole Saturday just to do it comfortably. (It should take around 3 hrs. Im not sure exactly as I was writing this info down on the side) I did this without a hoist, although I did raise the car slightly with a jack so I could reach the lower/return oil pipe bolts from the sump. Remove all heatsheilds as described in the sticky ‘Tightening of exhaust manifold bolt’ thread. Additional info Water Banjo bolts – 19mm Oil banjo bolts – 17mm Turbo dump pipe bolts – 13mm Turbo to manifold stud/nuts – 14mm Exhaust compressor bolts – 13mm While you have the heat shield off, it might pay to tension the lower exhaust manifold bolts to their respective tension (27nm) You could also lube the actuator solenoid aswell (It is very easy to access without the intake pipe to the turbo) * Place a suitable catch tray under the engine bay for all the coolant you will drop/loose on the floor. You may want to use it later (for the budget conscientious) Undo the inside waterline (19mm) banjo bolt. Make sure you catch the coolant underneith. Coolant will slowly start to leak out. Removing the yellow overflow tank cap will increase the flow. Loosen the small 60mm long rubber pipe connecting the outside turbo water line to the lower water pump line. You may need to crack the seal by rotating the small rubber pipe on the spot with a pair of pliers (Carefully). Once cracked, you can then grip a hold of the pipe firmly and twist and turn it back towards the rear of the engine over the pipe connecting to the turbo, just enough to get the coolant flowing. Water will absolutely flood out of here so make sure you have covered the back of your alternator with a plastic bag of some sort. ** After approx 20 mins the coolant should have stopped flowing. Now you can strain it into a suitable container for reuse. Note all the sand/dirt the coolant picked up on its way south, so it pays to either use new or strain the coolant before reuse. *** Undo the 17mm oil banjo bolt on top of the turbo. After you remove the bolt, move the line out of the way and reinsert the bolt to stop you loosing it. Oil will not flow out of here because after you stop your engine, the oil drains back into the sump through the lower oil line. Remove the lower oil line bolts (2 x 13mm) that are supporting the line on the side of the sump. You will need to get under the car to access these. * Remove the dump pipe bolts (5 x 13mm). Note, these are very tight so be careful but use force. You may be able to slide out the metal gasket from here, if not don’t worry, it will come out when the bolts connecting the turbo to the exhaust manifold are undone. NOTE: I always crack all bolts of an assembly, BUT always remove the lower bolts first (where applicable), this give support to whatever you are disassembling from the top. Remove the ‘Hot’ pipe from the turbo intake compressor (7mm pipe clamp) Remove Actuator vacuum line. Remove the turbo from the Manifold. Again these stud/nuts are tight. Try to crack the top two and lower stud/nut closest to dump pipe. Using a ratchet spanner (AS pictured) remove the actuator bracket using a. This 13/14mm ratchet spanner is one of the most used tools in my toolbox and works a treat here. For $50 you can buy a set of 3 – 10/12mm, 13/14mm & 15/17mm. I bought mine at Heatly Industrial products. (No, I don’t work for them) This tool makes removal of the actuator bracket bearable. * Contrary to what I have printed earlier, remove the top two bolts on the actuator bracket. This helps you reach the lower actuator bracket bolt with the ratchet spanner. Remove the lower bolt and wiggle the actuator and bracket so you can reach the lower front turbo to manifold stud/nut. This one is hard to undo, even with the actuator semi out of the way. (Did I hear someone say sledgehammer?!) After you have cracked it, you can use your 14mm ratchet spanner to undo it. Undoing and removing this stud/nut sucks the big one so be prepared to be patient. * Remove the lower stud/nuts completely. Remove the top two stud/nuts from the turbo/exhaust manifold. Be careful to support it as you remove them as the turbo will fall slightly and you don’t want to damage anything. * The turbo should now ‘zig zag’ carefully out under the two oil/water feed lines and back towards the rear of the engine bay. * It’s late, and im stuffed so will place pics of turbo and how to remove the exhaust housing when I get back from Melbourne in about 10 days. Im there to pick up my intercooler and other goodies.