EXR6T

hey guys thanks for the quick reply's it happens more when I give it a bit ive noticed. like tonight I did that boost solenoid thing with the WD40, and was giving it a bit, and when I stopped at the shops and let it idle, the revs would drop now and then like a fair bit to the point of almost stalling for about a second then go back to normal. what is valve float UNVEME??? I did take it to the tuner and they said it was the valve springs that they were too soft, but I always like consulting u guys.. I dont ever get it above 5500 except once the other day when I put it back to 2nd instead of into 4th lol I was really really tired lol... I think the rev meter went all the way around a couple of times lol....

just wondering, how could I tell if my valve springs are on there way out, ive found my car idles and runs just a little bit rough, now I might just be being picky, because its not overly bad, but its just seems that way.. is there a certain way to tell if the valve springs are buggered or could there be something more sinister wrong? after reading boost69's post on his conrod going through the block, im like really paranoid about every little sound and rattle that the motor makes lol valve springs are still stock, and ive been told by last place that serviced it that they are probably why its running bad, because they arent liking the extra power its got. any help would be appreciated.. thanks guys.. Pete

hey guys, a few weeks back I had a few problems with my clutch slipping after driving around for a whil;e after I got some performance stuff done. and so, I did some research and ended up going with the CI / PBR twin plate organic clutch and flywheel. just letting you guys know that so far the clutch feels excellent, alot better to drive, and the once clunky 5 speed is now alot smoother to drive. it holds really really well, and so far I havent had any problems if theres any updates ill let you guys know, but I just thought I might let you all know how I went, and yes, so far I'd recommend the clutch 100%, I doubt its as good as the mal wood options and I understood that when I bought it, but im happy with it. it was fitted by horsepower factory in dandenong, and I have to say, once again their service is excellent, and quality of work from what ive seen is very good too. thanks everyone who gave me advice and details on the CI Clutch and the different options available to me.

sorry guys I probably wasnt clear enough I meant light as in it stone chips through to the base coat really easy because I think its been buffed too many times, not light in colour.. any ideas on pricing of getting an extra coat of paint and if its worth it.??? Pete

hey guys, just wondering, the xr6t I bought recently has a pretty light paint job, I think they must have buffed off all the paint at the car yard before I bought it... and yes its out of warranty now.. just wonderin I dont really wanna get a full respray is it possible just to chuck a couple of layers of paint on or something, if so how much would it be???

I get about 16l/100ks which is pretty much too and from work around town in busy traffic and goin out cruisin of a night time maybe wreckin a dunnydore or two... hats off to a black SSZ ute though, one of the quickest cars ive seen recently on the road..

hey man, I was in a similar boat im 22, and just got a second hand xr6 turbo.. they are a great car and im lovin the one ive got if you can afford a 6 speed then go for that, im already replacing the clutch in mine and its 5 speed, they tend to not handle any more than stock power in the 5 speed so if you want to do work to it...which you will it is probably worth investing in the 6 speed as for a loan DO NOT go through the car yards, they compound the interest on most which means if you borrow $22,000 at say 12%PA over 5 years and paid it off the VERY next day you would have to pay back like $30000 at best if the company is willing to offer you a discount and not charge the early termination fees I really recommend going through a bank for your loan.. if you have been banking with a company for a while say ANZ or Commonwealth, they are more likely to A) approve you and b) get you a cheaper rate. if your buying a second hand one then I suggest getting it checked out by a little more than RACV cause although they are good for family cars, most wouldnt know heaps about turbo engines. you'd be best getting a good tuning place to check it out as well as RACV. make sure if there are any issues that they get fixed up before you buy it.. try and get one with already upgraded brakes cause standard ones are sh*t, safety first if your wanting a family car, plus standard brakes once you get over 110kph get brake fade really bad and you have almost no braking power this thread could go on for ever with the amount of stuff to look out for. as for insurance im 22 and had a not so perfect driving record (speeding fines after speeding fines), so my insurance was $2000 for full comp but AAMI offer a skilled drivers course which I did which gives 10% off until your 25 and I know for young drivers its hard and expensive if you havent really held insurance for ages. ring insurance company's before you think about buying an xr6t cause my mate bought one before he knew he could get insured and because he wrote off his last car he cant be insured with it at all yet... dont think that high k's is a bad thing either. a car with low k's could be getting sold for a reason, mine has high k's but the guy was driving from melbourne to sydney and he was a fairly old dude so I dont think he fanged it... make sure you get the car extensively checked before you buy it mate... ive only had mine a while so I dont know heaps about what can go wrong and what to look for exept what I got told to look for .. when buying a used car also get a REVS check on it to make sure it isnt under finance, because if there is money owed on the car and you buy it. the finance company who is owed money wont give a sh*t bout you buying it, they will just TAKE IT FROM YOU... sh*t I could go on forever with this I think and I know hardly nothing about them... give this thread a few weeks mate and youll know exactly what to look for lol

I have this same problem at the moment im glad I know what it is now cause my car is going into HPF on tuesday to get a few things done thanks for the post!!!

oh and for this topic I kinda mean everything and ANYTHING you guys think is a cool trick or tip for the XR's hey does any1 know if its possible to install the BF "auto head lights off" thingy on a BA so they turn off automatically when the car goes off??? ive ran my battery flat twice at work on my car because my turbo timer is running and so the "lights are on" warning doesnt sound because the engine is technically still running.. that's one thing I was interested in.... im sick of roll starting my car !!!!!

that's pretty cool hey wheres the best place to get the gauges like boost and oil temp from installed into an xr6 turbo??? I think the gauges make the turbo's look just that little bit tougher..

I know there is probably already a post for this but ill post here anyway cause I cant find it, just wondering what the little tricks and tips for the Xr6 Turbo are I was reading things in the blow off valve section about blocking up the air thingy's (you can tell im new to this) lol.. to make it sound better and spraying WD40 somewhere to make it boost better or something.. yes I havent had my xr6 turbo long and yes I dont know much about turbo's and little about engines probably like a few people on here but I was just hoping you GURU's out there could post here for us new people about little cheap things we can do to our XRT's to help them run faster, sound better, and last longer etc.. im expecting a few reply's here cause ive noticed already how much you guys love showing off stuff you know.. lol if there is another post for this stuff then im sorry for bein stupid, could someone please post the link in here thanks heaps guys..

thanks for the help guys... I spoke to ABS and they are gonna replace the pads for something more suited, cause the rotors are fine which im happy with.. im told ferodo formulas are best suited for me but ABS wont use them so I have to find something else... im thinking either bendix ultimate or bendix SRTs does any1 else have any ideas??? thanks again for the help :-)

thanks for the help and advice guys groper I dont quite drive as hard as you lol and im only running 245rwkw so the CI one should be fine im gonna go with that, and ill let you all know how it goes thanks again

I think the $1295 was a special price offered to HPF so I could try the clutch and they could see if they want to use them or not.... I might be wrong though... still I havent heard much bad stuff about clutch industries or PBR and searching around dont hear anything bad about them.. only to be wary which after my incident with my brakes I am very wary... I'll speak to HPF more about it monday and see what I can find out... can I just add that I sense alot of animosity out there with u guys... why are ya's always at each others throats??? idea______!!! go take it out on ya next door neighbours hsv..

I think this is the clutch im getting http://www.clutchindustries.com.au/range/r...utchupgrade.htm

actually can I just touch back on this subject? I just re-read over it, theres no real proof of them being a bad clutch I'll find out what material they are using on monday does any1 use a clutch industries clutch?? or PBR? its a twin plate clutch which I think is good.. it sounds like good value, but at the same time I know ya get what you pay for.. I think the $1295 was a special price because clutch industries is looking to get HPF as a supplier for their clutches.. im so lost with this sh*t... I know the mal wood clutch will be better but I dunno if I can afford it right now that's all.. if I had the money I would just go with that one..... any more ideas or discussion on PBR or clutch industries clutches??? here is the addy for the clutch I THINK im getting lol http://www.clutchindustries.com.au/range/r...utchupgrade.htm

thanks for the info, I think I'll just save up and go with the mal wood one he recommended option 1 for me I'll still check what material the clutch industries clutch is made of though before I buy the mal wood it might be a good deal... or I might just be being cheap.. VERY sorry about the double post I thought my first one didnt post because I closed the page earlier before it thought it posted because I was at work and the manager showed up... sorry

ive recently purchased DBA rotors with EBC pads and ive had problems because the ebc pads dont work properly until about 180 degrees so because I never drive that hard that they get up to that the place is replacing the EBC pads with something more suited to the DBA rotors the rotors are the DBA street ones, the ones just below the 4000 series rotors.. any help would be appreciated.. thanks guys

hey guys well fairly good news adrian from DBA said my rotors were still okay, they only machined .3mm off the brakes which is okay. he said the heat spots were just cause by residue on the rotors burned by the brake pads. but you guys were right. the EBC pads are too hard for the rotors so I went back to ABS with all the info I had gathered and explained to him what I wanted, and he has agreed to replace the brake pads with whatever I wanted, so what pads do you guys think will be good for the DBA rotors the slotted ones just below the 4000 series ones?? I dont want any like the EBC ones which need to be too hot to work properly cause I never get a chance to get them up to that tempreture. and probably not ones that are too hard that just chew up the rotors... thanks again guys Pete

hey guys I need a new clutch and flywheel for my xr6 turbo, ive got about 245rwkw and not planning on adding any more anytime soon. and I know the mal wood and textralia options are the best, but with flywheel & fitted would be just under $2000 ive been offered to try a new twin plate clutch and flywheel from PBR clutches for $1295 fitted which is pretty good value, but im not sure on the quality horsepower factory in dandenong who I trust with all my work say it will be good, and I do trust what they say cause they have been excellent so far.. but I was just wondering what you guys think of the PBR twin plate clutches. has any1 got or had one?? should I just save for the mal wood one? which I think is done by ACE clutches.. thanks guys Pete

thanks guys for your help ive been in touch with adrian from DBA and it seems that DBA do not recommend EBC pads with their 4000 series rotors. so ABS have obviously made an incorrect reccommendation, so I spoke to the ACCC and they said I will have no problems getting a refund or getting the brakes swapped over.. adrian from DBA is coming down from the city to look at my car some time today to make sure there arent any other problems, and to look at the rotors after that I will call this guy from ABS and explain everything ive discovered about this so called brake upgrade he sold me.. thank you all again for your help I'll let you know how it goes Pete

thanks guys, im pretty sure the rotors were the 4000 series, I'll have to check my reciept tonight and see what it says, ive got a feeling it just says DBA rotors, and says its just got "brake pads" down for the pads on the receipt, but the pads are definately EBC because you can read it through the calipers, and are different front and back. which is kind of weird because the fronts are the only rotors that are having problems, the back ones havent gotten any heat spots, and they are different from the front ones. I appreciate your help guys, I'll let you know how I go, the car is going in to horsepower factory on thursday to get the clutch checked so they are going to check the brakes too.. thanks again Pete oh just a quick question, would the fact that they used different pads back and front, and im only getting problems with the front be a coincidence? also, could you point me in the right direction to get in contact with DBA? thanks guys

I have recently purchased a brake "upgrade" for my xr6 turbo, I got recommended by ABS brake and clutch in narre warren to get DBA Rotors with EBC ceramic brake pads. these I was told were to be better than the standard brakes, but later I was told by one of the mechanics there that they were no better than stock... that's not my main problem though, ive had alot of problems with the brakes not performing anywhere near as good as the standard ones and things like when they warm up the brakes vibrate and have almost no braking power, to which they put it down to "driver abuse"... which pissed me off as I havent been giving my car a hard time.. they machined the brakes free of charge, but said that they had to take alot off the rotors to get them back to normal because there were heat spots all over the rotors.. since they got that done the brakes have been ok, but ive been driving really softly, tonight though I had to stop in a hurry and the same problem occured with the shaking and no braking power.. just hoping people can give me some advice on what I should do and how I should handle it, ive had the brakes for roughly 3 weeks so far... im fairly young, so dont know too much bout this stuff, so any help would be appreciated thank you

yeah I think ill go with an option 1 kit should be good... any1 got any ideas about the brakes??

hey guys, im new to the forums, I just got a BA XR6 Turbo 5 Speed, ive had the custom edit done, removed the center muffler and upgraded the wastegate and got typhoon intake and K&N Filter which dyno's at just under 250rwkw, I heard about how sh*t the 5 Speed is and the factory Brakes which I had upgraded, and im having problems with both. with the 5 speed when I start to give it a bit, it seems as if the trans is slipping and revs out as if in neutral, is this the clutch??? do you think I need to replace it, and how much and where should I go to do it properly?? apart from that the 5 speed although clunky which I know about seems fine. I have recently replaced the clutch fluid though through just the local mechanic, could they have stuffed something up?? with the brakes I didnt want sh*t brakes on a car like this, so I went to ABS brake and clutch in Narre Warren, where I said I wanted better brakes than standard and so I was SOLD .. DBA slotted ventilated Rotors with EBC Ceramic Pads, which they said were quite good and definately better than standard. so I drove around bedding the brakes in for about a week. which sucked drivin like a soft cock for a week, but I did it anyway, after that, I noticed if I ever had to stop in a hurry and the brakes were warm, the whole car would shudder and I would have almost no braking power at all, at least with the factory ones I could still brake, this has almost caused a couple of accidents already, so I took them back to ABS and all they did was machine the rotors and tell me that I must be driving really hard on the brakes because the front rotors were COVERED in heat spots, which annoyed me a bit seeing I had been driving soft. what else could cause these problems with the brakes?? the pads they said had been chewed up pretty badly for how new they are so im thinking something is wrong but I dunno what, so I got no leg to stand on.. any help with these two matters would be greatly appreciated hope to see you all out there.. Pete EXR6T