Mike XR6T

coils or plugs or filter will csause this under boost as the engine is demanding more fuel and a stronger spark so do plugs, filter and if still not fixed consider doing the coils. unlikely to be the turbz mate

mine hasnt faided one bit since I brought it 2 years ago

serch the forum, I have posted the fix for this many times

dude y didnt u put like a double din multimedia unit in there to fill the space?

good call pat, u should b a detective I didnt even pick that!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2006-Ford-Performan...:1|293:1|294:50 nuff said

wow! really confusoing wording dude but sounds like the trans is slipping! check the trans fluid for a start

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...mp;#entry892006 http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...mp;#entry892006 http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...mp;#entry892006 http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...mp;#entry892006 http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...mp;#entry892006

there is no "idle up sensor" the throttle is electronically controlled and idle is controlled by the throttle butterfly being opened more, throttle bodyy clean is first but we have had several falcons from ford do the same and has ended up being the TPS flipping out, and I have had one that the throttle motor failed causing it. and I have also heard of the wirin gbehind the head being a prob 2. so there is several probs I no of so I doubt there is a universal fix for it

out of respect Mcdonalds have released the mc jackson burger, 50 year old meat between 10 year old buns

recent authourities have put a stop to the cremation of michael jacksons body as the melting of plastic isnt eco friendly

undertakers have announced that now michael jackson has died he's gonna be melted down to make toys, so the kids can play with him for a change

c31 Adventure bound sbs Swift and Shift Couriers sbs BIG LOVE best show ever love bill paxton sbs Shamless UK

I dont use protection

im sick 2:( got the same bug buffy farkin b.s let me know if u get better

shorts dont cause globes to blow

sh*t quality globes mate buy some phillips ones and ull be sorted

dude, to pul the cluster out, lower to colomb and undu the three screws undfe it and remove bottom schroud, pull the top schroud up and u will c 2 phillips head screws holding the cluster cover in, undo them and the top u and ull b sweet

if in SA I can make u a line? as long as I have the sample

Well every one is keen so here is a right up on HOW TO ill add pics next time I do one Grab a Beer and Read INTIRLY before starting 0.) set heater to hot and vents to face and then disconnect battery 1.) raise seat up and unscrew 3 hand brake bolts on the drivers side to get hand brake away from console- it clips to console so when loose lift it and move to drivers side to clear console. 2.)pull gear stick surround UP and off 3.) unscrew 2 console sides with phillips head- 1 screw a side and remove 4.) move both seats forward and unscrew 8mm gutter bolts in both sides of rear of console 5.) seats back 6.) undo 4X 8mm gutter bolts in top of console next to selector and 1X phillips head to loosen console 7.) undo 2X phillips holding cig lighter mount in and remove, disconnecting wiring 8.) undo 2X phillips holding front of console to dash 9.) pull hole console up from rear, if still tight some have 2X clips under carpet in center console storage area(move to side to disengauge) 10.)remove console from car 11.) beer 12.) take top of ICC using flat screwdrive of the like lifting from rear until it unclips 13.) remove 1X screw from behind 14.) under ICC disconnect arial plug(black) and 4X plug connectors from ICC starting left and working right( bit tricky may need a light and mirror to figure out the clips) 15.) undo 4X 8mm screws from the sides 2 a side and pull ICC forward until it is clear of the dash- MOVE CAREFULLY AND STORE UPRIGHT 16.) remove lower steering shroud 3X phillips head screws from the bottom 17.) disconnect 4/5X plug connectors going to colomb 18.) undo 1X 10mm bolt in bottom of colomb holding steering shaft to steering rack left of brake pedal(if it spins use a 13mm spanner to hold otherside) 19.) undo 4X 10mm Bolts holding upper section of colomb to dash and remove intire colomb from car(do this with steering centered) 20.) remove fuse box cover and use a screw driver to "pry" the bonet release down and towards front of car to unclip 21.) remove A pillar covers by pulling away from pillar at the top and working down until off on both sides. 22.) in top center of dash remove small 6" cover from dash near windscreen using a pik etc and loosen allen key bolt- dont remove just loosen(6mm from memory) 23.)on both sides of dash, remove side panels by prying off, dont worry 1 clip each side will break but it doesnt matter, it can hardly be helped. 24.) on both sides pull kick panels away from sides, manipulating them so u have acess to the wiring plugs(they wont break they are very flexible) 25.) dissconect 4ish plugs on both sides and pull white plug mount from kick panel area(ull no what I mean) it needs to be forced out as the sh*t plastic clips hold it in 26.) left hand side needs arial disconnected, pul black outer clip doen and pull other half to disconnect it. 27.)undo the long 10mm bolt in the bottom of center console area 28.) while in the area on the pass side is a plug infront of that bolt for the srs module, black plug with white housing, pull towars pass side to disconnect 29.) undo the 10mm bolt nere clutch pedal area that holds metal bracket to firewall30.) undo the 1X 10mm bolt either side that is right in nere the top door hinge and loosen right off till it dangels in the door hinge area 31.)undo the 2X 10mm bolts either side that hold the dash in 32.) with help from mate pull the dash forward from the center and once it clears the selector, hand brake and firewall work it out the passanger door with out scratching anything . ONCE OUT: Beer 33.) disconnect him module floor vent control rod(steel) -HIM is grey module on left side of heater box- rod has a yellow clip to disconnect 34.) disconnect 3X wiring plugs to module(4 if dual zone) 35.) unscrew 3X screws that hold module in 2 in left side and 1 under screwed to fire wall 36.)carefully remove module, manipulating it away from the 3 rods it controls( they r flexible dont be scared(black blue and green I think)) 37.)remove 6X phillips from very top of heater box and remove that panel IF REPLACING HIM STOP HEAR, FIT NEW HIM AND REFIT DASH- Id replace rod to be safe as its cheap as 38.) remove 6X phillips from front of box 39.) gentelly pull front down(bottom will still be joined) 40.) u should be able to clearly see if the rod is broken now as if it was in tact the HIM would be hard to egt out as rob would be still engauged to it.( the plastic drive gear in the HIM can be pushed out to the pass side to disengauge the rod if it is intact and your just doing the HIM) 41.) remove the broken rod by slowly working it out, making sure u suport all 4 flap hinge points as they are prone to break.a mate is handy now! u dont wanna flex the flaps just slide the rod straight out to the left. (if dual zone u will have 2 short rods an extra step is required, remove the servo motor on the drivers side and slide your extra rod out the drivers side) 42.) fit the new rod(rods) with the same care to remove 43.)once your happy with the rod fitment, making sure the flap edges(bushes) are located in the heater box sides, reassemble the box 44.) once box is re assembled fit the HIM with the gear drive pushed left to the disengauge position 45.) refit HIM allowing the control rods to fit to the flaps they opperate corectly. 46.) lift the heater flaps u just fixed up so they are in the full hot postition(up and forwassd so heater core is visible) and then push the HIM drive gear right so it engauges the rod( dont worry if it doesnt line up perfect the HIM will self test and align its sefl anyway. 47.) REFIT in reverse order the DASH etc 48.) remomber to refit the ICC connectors in reverse of removal, replug the lower plugs left to right. 49.) when its all back together connect the battery and opperate as usual the HIM should self test and adjust itself as required. 50.) if u fitted a New HIM take the car to a sparky or ford to have it programmed to your car BEER The HIM is the same part regardless of model variant it is just coded differantly. ill post part numbers soon but any ford dealer should know them:) If Mods wanna make this sticky I can modify when I do picks next time I do one that will make it much easier than starting from scratch if I left anything out please let me no:) tools required phillips head screw driver 8mm Socket 10mm Socket pik or flat screw driver 6mm allen key maybe an adjustable rench to remove shifter if manual 10mm spanner(battery)

Grab a Beer and Read INTIRLY before starting 0.) set heater to hot and vents to face and then disconnect battery 1.) raise seat up and unscrew 3 hand brake bolts on the drivers side to get hand brake away from console- it clips to console so when loose lift it and move to drivers side to clear console. 2.)pull gear stick surround UP and off 3.) unscrew 2 console sides with phillips head- 1 screw a side and remove 4.) move both seats forward and unscrew 8mm gutter bolts in both sides of rear of console 5.) seats back 6.) undo 4X 8mm gutter bolts in top of console next to selector and 1X phillips head to loosen console 7.) undo 2X phillips holding cig lighter mount in and remove, disconnecting wiring 8.) undo 2X phillips holding front of console to dash 9.) pull hole console up from rear, if still tight some have 2X clips under carpet in center console storage area(move to side to disengauge) 10.)remove console from car 11.) beer 12.) take top of ICC using flat screwdrive of the like lifting from rear until it unclips 13.) remove 1X screw from behind 14.) under ICC disconnect arial plug(black) and 4X plug connectors from ICC starting left and working right( bit tricky may need a light and mirror to figure out the clips) 15.) undo 4X 8mm screws from the sides 2 a side and pull ICC forward until it is clear of the dash- MOVE CAREFULLY AND STORE UPRIGHT 16.) remove lower steering shroud 3X phillips head screws from the bottom 17.) disconnect 4/5X plug connectors going to colomb 18.) undo 1X 10mm bolt in bottom of colomb holding steering shaft to steering rack left of brake pedal(if it spins use a 13mm spanner to hold otherside) 19.) undo 4X 10mm Bolts holding upper section of colomb to dash and remove intire colomb from car(do this with steering centered) 20.) remove fuse box cover and use a screw driver to "pry" the bonet release down and towards front of car to unclip 21.) remove A pillar covers by pulling away from pillar at the top and working down until off on both sides. 22.) in top center of dash remove small 6" cover from dash near windscreen using a pik etc and loosen allen key bolt- dont remove just loosen(6mm from memory) 23.)on both sides of dash, remove side panels by prying off, dont worry 1 clip each side will break but it doesnt matter, it can hardly be helped. 24.) on both sides pull kick panels away from sides, manipulating them so u have acess to the wiring plugs(they wont break they are very flexible) 25.) dissconect 4ish plugs on both sides and pull white plug mount from kick panel area(ull no what I mean) it needs to be forced out as the sh*t plastic clips hold it in 26.) left hand side needs arial disconnected, pul black outer clip doen and pull other half to disconnect it. 27.)undo the long 10mm bolt in the bottom of center console area 28.) while in the area on the pass side is a plug infront of that bolt for the srs module, black plug with white housing, pull towars pass side to disconnect 29.) undo the 10mm bolt nere clutch pedal area that holds metal bracket to firewall30.) undo the 1X 10mm bolt either side that is right in nere the top door hinge and loosen right off till it dangels in the door hinge area 31.)undo the 2X 10mm bolts either side that hold the dash in 32.) with help from mate pull the dash forward from the center and once it clears the selector, hand brake and firewall work it out the passanger door with out scratching anything . ONCE OUT: Beer 33.) disconnect him module floor vent control rod(steel) -HIM is grey module on left side of heater box- rod has a yellow clip to disconnect 34.) disconnect 3X wiring plugs to module(4 if dual zone) 35.) unscrew 3X screws that hold module in 2 in left side and 1 under screwed to fire wall 36.)carefully remove module, manipulating it away from the 3 rods it controls( they r flexible dont be scared(black blue and green I think)) 37.)remove 6X phillips from very top of heater box and remove that panel IF REPLACING HIM STOP HEAR, FIT NEW HIM AND REFIT DASH- Id replace rod to be safe as its cheap as 38.) remove 6X phillips from front of box 39.) gentelly pull front down(bottom will still be joined) 40.) u should be able to clearly see if the rod is broken now as if it was in tact the HIM would be hard to egt out as rob would be still engauged to it.( the plastic drive gear in the HIM can be pushed out to the pass side to disengauge the rod if it is intact and your just doing the HIM) 41.) remove the broken rod by slowly working it out, making sure u suport all 4 flap hinge points as they are prone to break.a mate is handy now! u dont wanna flex the flaps just slide the rod straight out to the left. (if dual zone u will have 2 short rods an extra step is required, remove the servo motor on the drivers side and slide your extra rod out the drivers side) 42.) fit the new rod(rods) with the same care to remove 43.)once your happy with the rod fitment, making sure the flap edges(bushes) are located in the heater box sides, reassemble the box 44.) once box is re assembled fit the HIM with the gear drive pushed left to the disengauge position 45.) refit HIM allowing the control rods to fit to the flaps they opperate corectly. 46.) lift the heater flaps u just fixed up so they are in the full hot postition(up and forwassd so heater core is visible) and then push the HIM drive gear right so it engauges the rod( dont worry if it doesnt line up perfect the HIM will self test and align its sefl anyway. 47.) REFIT in reverse order the DASH etc 48.) remomber to refit the ICC connectors in reverse of removal, replug the lower plugs left to right. 49.) when its all back together connect the battery and opperate as usual the HIM should self test and adjust itself as required. 50.) if u fitted a New HIM take the car to a sparky or ford to have it programmed to your car The HIM is the same part regardless of model variant it is just coded differantly. If Mods wanna make this sticky I can modify when I do picks next time I do one that will make it much easier than starting from scratch if I left anything out please let me no:) tools required phillips head screw driver 8mm Socket 10mm Socket pik or flat screw driver 6mm allen key maybe an adjustable rench to remove shifter if manual 10mm spanner(battery)

ok guys, id love to be able to travel the country and fix heaters in fords all the time, but I dont travel out of sa allt hat much :( and by the time I do it will no doubt be to late, if u r all that desperate id me more than happy to do a "group buy: lolololool- seriously but I will definatly do a HOW TO for u guys as I hate to see forum members get ripped! for those that cant wait for pics and a propper right up ill do a breifie now feel free to ask questions ill try to sort ya out

yeah dash out. him is about 400 I recon plus fitting ull be looking round 850-1000 aussie bukkas mate unless u know some one who can get u the him at cost and an even nicer mate to fit it- or u can do it your self. perhaps ill do a HOW TO to add to my collection with pics next time I do one. anyone interested?