RDCULS

Thanks guys. Yep my injector popped out also..must be the rail (plenty of id1000's getting around). Had a snort one on earlier with same problem.. Hoping this one would be trouble free. I'll see what I can do to fix it, or rail #4 on the way. The top hats give one more possible place to have a leak spring, but shouldn't be an issue if fitted properly (single piece 968's didn't leak though). Not supposed to be crooked but ended up like that as heaps of play. Still, I'll blame the rail not injectors. Thanks for your input

Gday, I'm hoping for some help. I've fitted ID1000 injectors with the blue Top Hat adapters, into an Aeroflow BA/BF billet fuel rail. Problem is, the o-rings on top hats dont seat into the fuel rail far enough, so I have fuel spraying out from between rail & top of cap. Top hat o-ring sits about 1.5mm into the fuel rail. The purple Top hat adapter caps look only millimetres longer, so dont look like they will seat right into the rail either. ...and the standard long length tapered adapters (for 1/2 size injectors) are too long. Has anyone else run into this issue? Cheers!

cheers champ!

Have just swapped monza & std hotside for Plazmaman 510mm core cooler & hot side piping. Was running 350wkw. Now feels a hell-of-a-lot stronger!! (not retuned yet…but running nice & smooth). The Cooler: Looks fantastic in the flesh (some things look better in picture….NOT disappointed when I unwrapped it). Looking in close detail, the welds are a work of art. The rounded flowing shape of end tanks are flawless (& best looking on the worldwide market in my opinion :-) Performance: Like a freezing cold night, all day long. As shown everywhere on paper, there’s a 30-40wkw gain to be had from this kind of change. But I wasn’t expecting the extra BOOT right from standstill up until boost comes on at 2500rpm (instead of the 3500rpm like it was!!). MAJOR gain on boost & FAR better response off. Sounds ‘beefier’ too (hot side?). Basically it feels as though the car has lost 500Kg. Loves it..! If anything, this experience has shaken my faith in depending on peak pwr readings when considering a mod (30-40kw peak power gain on paper doesn’t do justice to the change in power delivery throughout the rev range). My advice: GET ONE! _________ Only ‘problem’ is, now I have to get the Plenum… I'm thinking: Sure it’s possible to make near 400wkw with std plenum etc. But I now have a feeling it would be a very different drive than a car showing same peak power with aftermarket plenum. Will report when plenum goes on…! Peace

My 4spd has taken punishment for 2 years (approx. 40,000Km) at around 350rwkw. (but blown a motor & turbo) Still feels puurfect & fluid stays red. My theory is: dont "punish" car in 'auto mode' kicking back gears (switch to seqen.) and dont flat shift (I.e. for gear changes: back of the gas..click up cog, or down cog...then back on gas, as you would in a manual). I recon kicking back gears full throttle in 'D'/auto is what does most damage... Plus, a decent amount of pwr means u dont have to 'flat shift' for good performance.... ..I'm pretty confident my "mission" has a decent amount of life left in it yet.. ***touches wood***

Hey mate, try Promac Engineering (end of Munibung Rd, Cardiff). Have used them before with sucess. Pretty sure they fix buckled wheels....

OK then, was thinking about going for the full set on flea-bay (to suit FG) & swaping brackets... Think I will abandon that idea now... Cheers

Race Brakes sydney say bracket's cannot be purchased seperately.... Best I be hunting down the importer...

Has anybody had any joy fitting 6pot front brembo's with 19" ANZ Tazer wheels? Also, would the 4pots fit rear with Tazers? Spoke to the manufacturer (ANZ).....they were unable to tell me.... Much appreciated!

Hi, does anyone know where caliper mounts/brackets can be purchased from (for BA turbo) ? (no joy via google) Called Ford today..they will only sell whole complete caliper w/bracket ($1000 each). Will try FTG when they reopen on 12th. Any others (new or used)?? Cheers

Pretty sure it was due to rattle gun. Got wheels put on one day, returned a week later to remove dust covers & what-do-you-know, stripped nut. Will try undoing other nuts & pulling wheel off (good idea!).... If no joy, might try to drill it.. Thanking you

Hi there, One of my front wheel studs is stripped (wheel nut just rotates but doesn't undo) "cuntox". Has anyone sucessfully tackled removal of something simmilar & how OR have any bright ideas on how to remove (that doesn't necessarily involve a 100mm grinder & new rim)??? cheers

Hey Senna T (& others with forged pistons), Can you hear your piston noise from inside the cabin of the vehicle at idle (+ do you have stock sounding exhaust)? (Probly wont mind if it takes my attention away from buzzing 044...). (Although dont really mind extra noise if it's the sound of something doing it's job..but rattle & buzz combined could be punishing)

Atomic tells me they now supply/use Mahle pistons (no longer CP) & have no more probs with noise....

Thanks VF much for the imput fells! Think I need to do some more soul searching to decide if I'll want more power in the future (um, yes, probably will). Simon from Nizpro called me back with some interesting views on buying forged bottom end only. Was a very detailed conversation (what a champion) wont go into details (& don't believe in chinese whispers)... Left me thinking either full built long motor or F6 bottom end. Interesting to see NO bottom end failures for ford fat-rod motors so far....must be fairly tough (may be worth me looking into FG F6 bottom end with strengthened piston design, IF I go that way). Thanks for offer Straughsberry, very kind, would save me about $500 from price quoted from local dealer (may be intouch soon). __________________ Car was running on V-power (allways except when it was out those few months back...then was BP ultimate). Was tuned by a forum sponsor (various custom retunes over last 12months beacuse few mods done seperately. Only ran generic tune when no mods). Has following mods: Bosch 968 injectors < not leaning (10.2 afr....maybe too rich???dont know that stuff really) Process west surge tank w/ Bosh 044 Plazmaman piping: from cold side of monza cooler (considering replacing) to throttle body. Plazmaman air box where battery was & K&N pod (deleted crossover) Atomic valve springs Enlarged waste gate w/ bigger swing valve flap 12psi Actuator Xforce 4"dump pipe to 2 x 2.5" to quad rears Heres where it gets a little interesting, boost peaked at 19psi & dropped to 17psi....as when my turbo was replaced under warranty a few weeks ago (which suprised me....shame they wouldn't cover the engine though), Ford had fiddled with the actuator (so boost couldn't be dropped any further). By the time dyno run/tune was done, car was too hot to be worked on & I had to drive home 2hrs. Then I got addicted to the extra boost and didn't take it back to be rectified! Kinda hoped it wouldn't go KABOOM....(but also kinda knew it would). So no prizes for guessing why! Still, if there are no known F6 bottom end failures, sounds to me like it's up to the task... (2nd post was a horse huh??)

Hello all, the inevitable has happened (big bang, chunks of metal.....roll to a stop, hole in block).... I am now considering either Atomic motor OR rebuild using Typhoon bottom end from ford (with inclusion of tough oil pump gears). Don't think I'll try to extract any more power (was :flameman: enough), so my thinking is: if Typhoon bottom end is up to it, might pocket a few G's instead..but really not wanting this to happen again... I see there are plenty of BA's that let go of their rods....but does anyone know of any late BF's or Typhoons that have done the same (and if so, at what power level)? Thank you