bluesmuso

I have just been having a closer look at the fitting, I think if the circlip was removed it would not attach to the pump housing and fail to seal, so I can assume that removal of the internal circlip would render the replacement fitting useless.

You mean on the new fitting? It looks pretty tight in there but with the right tool you may be able to.

Cheers Howitzer....that's sex on wheels, what more can I say. cheers Bluesmuso

Thanks heaps Christiaan, I really appreciate the trouble you went to posting this along with pictures. I was thinking of using a Dremil with a tiny metal cutting wheel on it so I can remove the fitting without removing the entire hose from the car. I wonder if the circlip (which makes the fitting impossible to remove) can be removed so that it is a two way fitting? Probably not, but afaik the circlip simply holds the pipe in place for quick assembly at the production line, I don't think it does much else, the O-ring and bush would be what seals the join, but since the circlip is internal I think it is there to stay. Thanks heaps Christiaan once again. Bluesmuso

Have you got any pics howitzer85? I see on your avatar there is a small picture and it looks good, the gunmetal would look great because of the contrast with the chrome dish, I think being 19" it would also be a more suitable size for the car, are yours 8" wide or 9" on the rears? I still think mine would look better with black or grey spokes. I think only the MK 2's have the chrome dish mine is just polished alloy.......damn. RSK Speedy adrenelins look wicked, I just looked them up on the Speedy site and now I'm jealous LOL

Yeah they look OK and they have not cost me anything, they are still quite new and unmarked so if I see something I'd rather I can still sell them, my wife does not drive so they won't be hitting any kerbs. They would not be my choice for a BAXRT though if I was buying them, fatter spokes and deeper dish would be my cup of tea, some of the ROH like "Mondena" and some other designs are lovely wheels on anything but they are expensive. Thanks Nick

Yes they do look small for 18" wheels, I think it comes back to the less than meaty spokes, they are a very slimline wheel. On the magna I had to get lovells lowered springs because the gap above the wheel arch on those magnas looks utterly ridiculous.....anyway lets not talk about magnas anymore. I wonder if they would look better in powder coated black on the xr? I might try and work out how to use photoshop and see what it looks like on my car, it's better than painting them and then not liking them. The thinner spokes seem to publically advertise that I've got the crappy stock brakes, but with the calipers painted red it could look better if not a bit "try hard," but the brakes painted in red look good I think, but not as good as Brembos. There is a VY Late model camira with the exact same wheels near where I work, honestly I really like the look of the wheels but on these bigger cars like BA and VY they just don't seem to look right, if I really was sure that I liked them I probably would not have started this thread in the first place, instead I would have posted a thread saying "here's a picture of my new T"

I looked at some rims today, ANZ wheels do a nice rim called "velvet" shown in the brochure on an FG GT, they actually at a glance look similar to my wheels but with slightly wider spokes and more chrome, they also have the "gallon of rat's piss" rivet look _Spin_ LOL I'm going to post the picture on ford forums (for curiosity sake) and not mention the Magna thing and see what response I get. LOL But seriously it really is up to me and in a week or so I'll have decided whether or not I like them, I do agree that the spokes are a bit thin for a bulky car and rims like these are probably more suited to a Skyline etc, and as _Spin_ said I may get more for the Magna with them back on it. thanks heaps for your honest comments guys, it's much appreciated. Bluesmuso

I think I'd get more selling the wheels separately, whenever I've sold a car people want everything for nothing, it would sell quicker with the wheels on but I doubt I'd get too much more.

Yes the Magna thing probably didn't help, but whether we like it or not the wheels are interchangeable, I've even heard of people putting 17"X8" XR6 rims on Magnas WTF that would not look right at all. I did once see a BA XR8 with ROH rims with the "ferrari" look 5 spoke rims (which looked very similar to mine)and it was stunning but they had wider rims at the rear 9" I think and the car was jet black.

Maybe they would have looked better black on the falcon instead of silver/chrome but when I got them the silver on the Magna winned hands down.

No offence taken, I've asked for people's opinions good or bad cheers for the input. The problem with the stockers is they are scratched, one in particular looks really bad, previous owner hit a kerb or something. But yeah, I'm still trying to decide whether or not they are too "ricey" I know 9.5 rears would look good but I don't really want to go to the expense and trouble at my age, what are the more popular after market rims for XR6T's 17" or 18" not any bigger?

I've still got the standard ones

As you can see in the photo the wheels used to be on my TJ Magna wagon, when I bought the Magna (which my wife was going to drive) it looked like a pensioner's car with the standard wheels on it, so as a matter of urgent priority I put these on it, they are Speedy "Envy MK III" 18"X 8" Although they are IMO more suited to a Japanese car I still think they look good on the XR6T, because XR6T's look so good out of the factory when you put new wheels on them they don't seem to have the "bling" factor that you'd get when you put wheels like this on an otherwise ordinary car. The Magna has been a very good car with climate air and factory dual fuel (with surprisingly quite a bit of power for lpg ) but I'm selling it soon. Anyway what does everyone think of the Speedy Envy MK III's on an XR6T? I'm still not sure myself.

I have noticed that people are fixing the connection into the power steering pump when it leaks by using a dremel/angle grinder to remove the circlip and offending o-ring for substantially less expense than buying a complete line from Ford spare parts at a ridiculous price. But the instructions and details I've seen so far are too brief for me to attack my pride and joy with an angle grinder. Does anyone have pictures with instructions on how to do this so I can replace the part without buying the entire line from ford? Until then I will keep the fluid topped up and degrease the areas affected by the leak so I don't kill the alternator etc. thanks in advance Bluesmuso

UPDATE: Now that I have had my blueprint XR6T for a while now I can see why there are so many apparent variations in this colour. I have photographed mine in different lighting situations and they all look like different colours, when in full sun the sexy metallic blueprint comes alive, but in the shade it looks different, even dull. To answer my own question both cars in the photos I posted are Blueprint but in different lighting situations. Shockwave (SubJimbo) is much much darker and Velocity is a lot lighter, I love the blueprint colour and am very happy with it.

fpr000, my xr6t had no boost when I bought it, the car went no better than a standard non turbo xr6, probably worse, I tried everything, fuel filter, boost solenoid etc, it ended up being the exhaust cam sensor wires melted together, the mechanic replaced the wire (which is close to the heat shield) with silicone hi=temp wire and dynoed it and it made 186rwkw's (about average) and it goes very well now. Essentially I had no VCT and the engine was in limp mode (no boost) interestingly the check engine fault light did not come on though and the turbo and bov made all the right noises. Hope you get it sorted out, good luck, muso.

Sorry Moderator, I posted in the wrong spot again!

I have had to remove my front bumper to do a few things such as mount the twin horns properly etc. So whilst the front bar is off I've decided to remove my stock intercooler and give it a clean and spray paint it in silver (I know it is only a stock intercooler but the ones I've seen painted silver look great to me) I'll be painting the housing and cross bars not the actual cooling fins. But what is more important to me is the trans cooler which is mounted in front of the intercooler which I think looks silly, I'd rather mount it behind inbetween the radiator and intercooler so that the right thermo fan is drawing air through it when stationary. One question I have is does it matter which pipe fitting (on the trans cooler) is used for top and bottom hoses? (ie is there an inlet and outlet or is it flow through either way?) I have posted a picture and as you can see in order to mount it behind the intercooler I will have to turn it upside down unless I want to mount it through the radiator instead(which I don't really want to do) I also don't really want to mount it behind the r/h fog light either (which I noticed whilst searching seems to be a popular mounting location) I don't know what make of trans cooler it is but it says "Canada" on it, as long as it does the job I don't care what it is. Thanks in advance.

UPDATE: The previous owner has finally contacted me after 6 weeks of me trying to get in contact, apparently a friend had borrowed the phone and has also moved house etc etc. All contact by text message only. You won't believe it, the books which were in the car when it was inspected were from her father's car, also a 2003 BA Ford. The mechanics didn't pick it up, apparently it never had books and she had been borrowing her fathers books to find out where the fuses were, I assume it also never had a jack or functional spare wheel either. She offered to send me her father's books (I think to apease me ) but instead I asked that since the car was sold to me under the impression that it came with books instead she purchase an "owner's kit" from Ford spare parts which is an owner's manual and a service manual (empty) both in a vinyl folder for $123.00, and provide me with as much info on the previous owner as possible so I can attempt to trace the car's service history I'll leave it at that and consider it settled, I have not heard a reply yet and it was almost a week ago. As far as the legal side of it goes it's tricky, it could be misrepresentation..........or an honest mistake, depending on which lawyer you ask (I've briefly spoken to a couple) But I did discuss with her the fact that services had been ceased at 120,000km's according to the books in the car at my mechanical inspection when making an offer and was not told they were the books to a different car until this week (I paid for the car late January) I spoke to the mechanics and I guess when you are looking at a 2003 ford and it has 2003 books in the glovebox you'd simply assume that they are the books to that car, but they really should have noticed I guess. Where I go from here who knows, I guess that's what you get from buying from a private seller, but I've bought lots of cars from private sellers and never had this happen before. I could pursue it but being interstate it will be costly if the court sees it as an 'honest mistake'. But I still love the car and will be putting it on liquid gas injection in April hopefully then I'll have it dynoed again on the same dyno to see if it betters it's previous 186rwkw's once on liquid gas.

Thanks revheadrobbo, what wheel did you get?

I tried repco, they are a 6 sided T-30 bit and even another Ford spare parts dept said it's just a T-30 bit and a T-50 for the steering wheel hub. Got a quote from Emtech to re-cover the steering wheel in two tone leather for $225 which sounds Ok to me, there are all sorts of colours available but I'd probably go for a more neutral two tone grey black.

Thanks onboost, I think my torx bits are pretty cheap and not the best quality so if I try a better bit it should fit in better. The one I have just slips out and does not grip.

I think the airbag bolt is a special Ford manufacture which is slightly different to T-30, that's why I put "T-30" in inverted commas, whilst they look the same they are more than likely slightly different, but I've heard of someone undoing these bolts with a plain allen key as well as T-30 bits, it's my own experience which I'm posting about here. I tried the Allen Key but was too afraid to force it in case I damaged the bolt, but one would assume that the bolt is harder material than the Allen key or T-30 bit. I'll try and post a picture.

I have done a search and noticed that people were able to remove their steering wheel +airbag with the T30 and T50 bits, but when I tried the T30 it would not undo the bolts to remove the airbag and was not keen on trying too hard as I feared I would damage the "T30" bolts. In the end a wreckers removed the wheel for me using their (Special Ford torque bits) and swapped the steering wheels over for me for $20 it took 5 mins max. The wreckers had a pretty clean stock BA XR6 Leather steering wheel and offered it to me for $100 change over with my GT-P wheel but I gave it a miss. But when I need to swap wheels back again I'd rather do it myself, so do the T30 and T50 bits (which I have ) remove the airbag bolts without too much drama? The reason I'm swapping wheels is because my GT-P leather wheel has had it (the leather shiny surface has worn off in most places) and it feels horrible. Some previous owner either cleaned it with a corosive solvent or drove it with some solvent on their hands.................good one. The temporary replacement wheel is from a ba xt (aka Taxi with the usual wear at the top of the rim) and looks rather ordinary but only cost me $25 from the wreckers. Now I need to find out where to have my GT-P wheel repaired and how much, probably $300-$400 I'd guess.