bluesmuso

Bar and Plate I think

Yes I've heard the Garrett cores are up there with the best as far as cooling intake air goes, the monza looks nice though with the bling chrome look.

I bought a used Rajab racing/Garrett intercooler, they are apparently very good! Thanks for all your replies people. Now it's just a matter of where to put my B&M transmission cooler behind the intercooler or in front of the intercooler or elsewhere if it doesn't fit.

Stock xr6t cooler or stock F6 cooler? I've actually read on another forum that the BF F6 intercooler does perform quite well perhaps on par with the Monzas on Ebay

Cheers K31th, I actually like the look of the silver over the black, I just don't want the car looking like the "Jun Supra" under the bonnet for insurance, cops etc. If the BF FPV cooler is as good as a wog/monza which are about $250 ish on Ebay that's good enough for me Would the F6 cooler make more noise than the stock BA xr6t cooler? (Have to take into consideration the fully sick Bro thing... or sorry officer thing LOL) I'd like a bit more induction noise than I have.

I have the opportunity to get a 2nd hand BF F6 intercooler for about $100, but I have seen Monza/Wog aftermarket intercoolers on Ebay which are larger. I really want to keep my car as stock looking as possible but question the efficiency of the BA/BF F6 intercooler compared to the Monza aftermarket ones which cost around $210.00 off ebay these days. My car has a mild custom tune with about 250 rwkw's, I am aiming for 270-280 rwkw's but have a strict budget with more important priorities so the superior Process West etc coolers are not an option. So if the stock BA/BF xr6t intercooler is good for may be 240-250 rwkws what is the stock BA/F F6 intercooler good for? Go for the stock F6 cooler or Monza aftermarket? I realise the car will need re-tuning to allow for the cooler upgrade probably more so with the larger Monza.

Here is the youtube link

phantom I'm assuming yours is a 4 speed auto? As a manual will launch quicker (well quicker than mine anyway) albeit with excessive wheel spin, what a pity you cant have the turbo spooled right up at idle I have heard that autos (even 4 speed btr) can launch as quick or quicker than a manual if set up well. I've actually got a video of mine's 0-100 attempt which really shows the 0-40 ish dead spot but it's MP4 format and over 4 mbs in size so I dont think I can post it on here, I should youtube it and post the link, then someone here could see it and say "that's normal" or "there is something not right there."

phantom xr6t, what's yours like at midrange and top end? Mine is mental at mid and top end and can put you sideways between 1st and 2nd gear changes on dry road unless you are driving perfectly straight but so piss poor off the mark it's embarassing, what tune have you had 10 psi ,generic ,custom,what rwkw's? cheers for the reply, the fact that your car is trying to break traction sounds like you are right on with your tune. I just got back from the shops and mine is pretty lifeless until above 2,500 rpm.

My car is almost stock with F6 intake, K&N panel filter,stage one 10 psi custom tune 244 rwkw’s which I would assume is about 290-300 kw’s at the engine, it is quite fast but only after 40 kph, from 0-40 kph a manual Toyota corolla would get ahead and most other cars can to, roll on acceleration is another story, not much can match these midrange torque monsters, above 40 kph it just takes off as if a brake has been released then chirps into second sometimes. I know it is only 40 kph but with a speed limit of 60 kph it is difficult out accelerating traffic legally (eg you want to get ahead to do a lane change as they merge but don’t want to exceed the speed limit) anything above 40 kph and my car takes off. I’d love to sort out that dead 0-40 flat spot without either stalling it up which is bad for the car or resorting to a hi stall torque converter which I’d rather avoid since it's a daily driver family car. It is virtually dead gutless until 40 kph (the other side of the lights)I do realise that if the turbo isn't spinning it can be worse than a NA car. Is it in the tune or does boost generally only come on around the 2000-2500rpm mark? I also realise that it is a heavy car so expecting it to launch like a funny car is unrealistic. I once saw an F6 Typhoon take off sideways with minimal revs without stalling it up, but he probably had 350 rwkw’s any tips would be appreciated

Damn, the airbag light is on, I should have disconnected the battery (I forgot about seat belt pre-tensioners) but needed power to lower and raise the seat. But the seat is a lot more comfortable

Here's a couple of photos for anyone else who encounters this problem

It must be a common problem if the wreckers are reinforcing them when welding them up, I was going to have a crack at it myself but it is very hard steel and trying to straighten it in a vice would probably cause metal fatigue and I'm not that flash at welding either and it's only $80, most other wreckers I phoned would only sell me a complete seat for $350.00. I was thinking of putting the seat cover in the washing machine, it is held on with gutsy velcro and is easy to remove but I think I will just give it a clean with a sponge, I'll give the washing machine a miss.

I got it, pulled the seat out completely and dismantled it, it was a cracked and bent seat base, getting a change over one for $80.00 from my local ford wreckers here in Adelaide, the wreckers weld and reinforce the changeover replacement as well, thanks heaps for your input everyone

I pulled the seat out and found no evidence of bent mounts, each mount (both frame to seat and frame to chassis mounts) appear identical to the passenger seat except for the seat height adjustment components. I have packed the seat up with a few washers (bearing in mind that the seat is an integral safety item in a crash) on the left side which has improved it somewhat, I only packed it up by about 5mm. It is a lot more comfortable now and the seat height adjustment moves silently and freely, whereas before it rubbed on the handbrake and centre console. It has me totally baffled, maybe the seat's internal foam has gone on one side, but that would only be evident when sitting on it, I am assuming that in it's past the car has had it's seat removed and an incorrect part fitted, it actually sits about 20mm lower on the left side, so something is wrong.

Yes I do feel it, even more so now after seeing how crooked it is, I'll have to take the seat out and see what is going on.

My driver's seat has always felt strange ever since I bought the car earlier this year, then a while ago I was sitting in the back seat and noticed that my driver's seat is tilted down on the left and almost touching the centre console, but the passenger seat appears more level, maybe the mounts are bent, I haven't had a chance to look at another XR6 to see if they are all like this, but I don't know why they would be though.

I got a K & N air filter off ebay for $79.00 plus postage and an F6 snorkel from a Ford dealer near me for $82.00, it seems that the price is negotiable, part # BAF9C676B the same but I got three different prices, $157.00, $107.65 and $82.20 as well as the quote for $170.00 the other day wtf? I've put the filter in and have the hole already cut for the snorkel which arrives on monday, it is a lot louder in induction noise and blow off valve noise which is good, it seems a bit better but until I put the F6 snorkel in it will be sucking in hot air from the radiator so it's a bit early to tell, goes well on cold mornings though but that's still at WOT. I also really wish the electronic throttle could be tweaked for greater sensitivity, I hate having to really bury my foot to make it move it's arse, my old VN Late model camira you could 'blip' the throttle and move 2 metres, but it was really a heap.

I've pretty much tried all the things suggested, once I install the K & N filter and F6 secondary intake I'll see if that improves the response, I will still end up getting a tune. I will buy the K & N plus snorkel when I find ones which are not ridiculously priced........probably from Ebay, the shops are too dear (Snorkel intake $170 from a ford dealer).

Yeah I'll do that, I think the connections are ok but I should also look at the inlet manifold bolts. Another thing I should have mentioned is that I've cut the hole in the air filter box ready for the F6 snorkel so that may well be sucking in hot air until I install the F6 secondary intake, but it was already weak in throttle response before I did that anyway. cheers Bluesmuso

My car goes very well (203rwkw's on recent dyno) under heavy throttle but has always felt 'doughy' on light to medium throttle applications in day to day driving, you really need to bury your foot and then it flies. Is this just normal "turbo lag' (the gt40 is a big turbo charger) or could it be something else? It also gets poor economy with the average on the trip computer showing 18-19 litres per 100km's with average speed of a low 32 kph, I do lots of stop start driving etc, but it feels as if it will not get moving with the traffic unless I have at least half throttle, I'd much prefer a more "crisp" throttle response. I am going to do the K & N panel filter and F6 snorkel thing and then get a tune, maybe that will help it, I have not yet replaced the stock air cleaner but upon inspection it seems ok and pretty clean. It is more than likely turbo lag of which I can do nothing about but it would be nice not to have to really get up it to keep up with traffic, any tips would be much appreciated Bluesmuso

2nd hand $110 from wreckers, it leaks from the seals and it it far easier to replace the entire pump than to replace seals which need special tools (ie puller to remove pulley wheel etc) Community work LOL Actually the council had workers smoothing off all of the rough joins in the street recently......all excpet the join which I hit.

I hit a damn sharp kerb today, so the front left rim and tyre have a nasty rash now, only cosmetic no flat spot in the rim, it's just on the edge but still looks rotten and car will need a wheel alignment, curved road and parallel parking in a hurry....and councils not keeping kerbs in good repair (this one had almost an inch of sharp contrete sticking out at a joint between footpath and driveway cutaway........not good. I complained to the council and they are going to ring me back but I doubt it will get me anywhere even if I pay rates on two properties in the same street which it happened, but if the kerb join was straight without the sharp chunk sticking out the tyre would have brushed past it with minimal or no damage.