furiousgibbon

Seaton that is a good tip on the tow strap, I did see that bolt sticking through the other night but didn't think of doing anything with it. Not sure I'd really want the car dragged out from that point but I'd have to do something pretty stupid to get so far off track that the front tow point couldn't be used. Thanks for the brake tips Paul, I've done about 4 hours reading this morning, your recommendations would be great on track but I don't think they'd be suitable for the 25,000km+ a year I do up and down the freeway in traffic. Not sure I wanna mess about swapping pads for events either cause that's only gonna end up with vibration and other problems. I'll have to find an optimum street/track combo pad. Considering I'm running the standard Brembo pads I could surely improve without sacrificing streetability/noise levels. The only competitive events I'm going to do are those rallysprints and that's less than 3 mins per run, 4 runs per event, lots of braking but other than a soft and sometimes inconsistent pedal feel, the car pulls up ok as is. For track days I'm really not that concerned as I'm just going out having some fun. I really just need a pad that performs immediately from cold, stays consistent, and doesn't squeal like crazy on the street. HC800 still looks like a good option but I'll keep reading. I'm running Motul RBF660 fluid (was the first thing I changed) and so far it has been perfect. Love the look of the Shockworks floating rotors, will be going down that path once I wear through these ones!

I've got the 6/4 Brembos. Let me know what you've used anyway so I can check out availability and other feedback. I haven't looked into the tow hook issue, I'm gonna get under the car on the weekend and see if there's anywhere I could bolt a hook or something. I might just have to pull out of the event. I've done a few events and track days and this is the first time they've specified tow hooks as a requirement.

Not sure if you run tyres specifically for track but if you do, the NT01s have been pretty good for me. Considering the price I reckon I'd go them again when these ones are done. I noticed my pads are getting low (only 22,000km on them, whoops), did some reading seems that Project Mu HC800 is the common choice for a street/track blend, not too expensive either.

I just registered for a track day that listed front and rear tow hooks as a requirement. So I register and pay and *then* go and check for tow hooks. Genius. I can't find one on the rear, does one exist? The manual only specifies the front threaded hook location.

thanks mate, the concave in those sizes/offsets will be identical to yours so it'll look good. I checked out the website thanks, it's a cheaper than buying local (jdm concept) but if they mark the value correctly and I paid import/GST I'll be worse off, so I'll get them locally. I'm on the wear indicators on my rears but I reckon I can make them hurt for a couple more months while I wait for delivery. It looks like you got the high centre caps instead of the flat ones, are they definitely needed or would the flat ones fit too? I can't wait to get rid of these stupid heavy FPV wheels, I just put them back on and I can't believe how much they weigh... to think I was considering replacing them with FGX XR8 wheels, those 9" rears would have weighed even more!

love those wheels, I was thinking of getting another set of PF01s in black for the street, but your wheels are available in 19" which might be better... I do love the look of 18s though. I searched and saw you got +38 at the rear, but what offset at the front? The Enkeis I use on track are 8.5 +30 front, and 9.5 +35 rear and I don't think they could be more perfect. +38 at the rear is probably ok but the 19s have a choice of +25 or +35 at the front, I'm thinking +25 would be best and could be ground down a bit. Also did you have any problems with the +38 at the rear?

Last night was round 3 of the McRae Rallysprint series in Perth. Drove the F6 to 13th in class from 31, 41st outright in a field of 82. Could have jumped a few places if all my runs were as good as the last! I ran 30psi cold in the NT01s this time, about 2-3 more than last round and it felt just right, also set the coilovers to max stiffness at the front and 1 click down at the rear. Feels perfect now, sharp, responsive and balanced.

yes they will work. They will fit fine but you'll have to make a mount to space them from the door, I used 16mm MDF, cut two rings out and stuck them together. You might be able to get away with a single 16mm spacer but depends how deep the speakers is. Your speakers are 90dB so will have decent volume with the ICC.

round 2 of the rallysprint series last night, finished 36th outright in a field of 76, 12th of 29 in class. Ran the tyres 30psi cold, then dropped another 1psi out after the first run. Also ran the coilovers a couple of clicks softer, but I think I'll run them firmer next time. I used CG Locks on the belts this time which helped keep my ass in the seat, but the seats are still hopeless everywhere else. Will definitely need to look at a replacement driver's seat in future. Video of my best run, unfortunate missed shift right at the end cost me some time:

demand for the F6 might go up a bit until the FGX XR6T 310 is confirmed/released. I think people might be getting optimistic putting the prices up, but you'd expect prices to remain steady until people get over the panic of not being able to buy these things again. I bought mine on impulse at the start of the year with the same thought process! No regrets through. As for the XR8 pricing, well there's a sucker born every minute. I bought my F6 at Lynford earlier this year and the sales process was pretty good, but it sounds like they're looking for someone who just can't wait and has cash to burn. It shouldn't really be legal for a dealer to sell above RRP.

I had a boost hose split (the joiner into the throttle body) when I was on a track day. The recirc valve noise went from a flutter to a 'tsssh'. As it got worse I noticed the drop in boost pressure/power, but at first it just sounded different and didn't affect performance.

I actually got mad when I read this thread. The attempt by the warranty company to only cover the root cause of an issue is the most ridiculous thing I've ever read. Like if a timing chain guide failed they'd replace the guide but not the rest of the engine that's munched itself. I'd kick someone in the face if they suggested that to me. In fact if it's that easy to get out of claims, I'll start my own aftermarket warranty company and live rich. I hope you get a good outcome, don't let it slide, most aftermarket warranty companies will only cover the first x amount (say $1500) of a major repair but I've never come across one that's as petty as this. In fact when you're facing a $6-$8k repair bill, it might be worthwhile to speak to a contract lawyer to see whether they actually have the ability to treat a claim like that.

I keep my cars in very good condition which I'm sure the next owners would appreciate, but I purchase a car to give me enjoyment, not someone else 20 years down the line. That said though, there is such a thing as tasteful modifications, and it's not difficult to lose the original character of a car as you replace more stuff. I've modded cars in the past where I've gone past this point and always wanted to go back, but the prospect of losing power by reversing mods is not something you really wanna do. I'm taking my time with the F6, so far a Herrod intake for a bit more noise (holding on to the OE one though), Shockworks coilovers, speakers/sub and dynamat, and a dedicated set of wheels/tyres for the track. Also few 'upgrades' that people don't think about, Mainlube gearbox and diff oil, Motul brake fluid. Next on the list will probably be a set of FGX XR8 wheels for the street (keep the OE design but staggered). As for power... I've been thinking the car could do with some more power, but then I drove a stock 2008 STi (305bhp) a couple of days ago and I was forcing the pedal into the floor wondering where all the power was. The stock map on the F6 builds so nicely and it's definitely a quick car. It's incredibly driveable power too, that's one attribute I would miss if I started chasing the kilowatts. I read this sort of comment all the time on old posts from people who now have '400+rwkw' in their sig, but I can't see more than an intercooler and mild remap going onto this car during my ownership.

If you listen to music at volume, spend $140 on a Kenwood KFC-XW800F to replace that OE sub, it's a bargain little upgrade that bolts straight up and works perfectly with the OE amp. will look great with the stripes removed, don't need many red F6s around (or F6s at all really..)

after reading this thread I've done some reading on tube and fin vs bar and plate... I had the PW stepped IC on my list but I'm thinking the plazmaman stage 2 might be worth consideration... still not entirely clear though, you lose cooling capacity, durability to rocks and increase pressure drop, but gain better flow to the radiator and lighter weight, anything else?

awesome, thanks for the info guys. I did some reading on the CG Lock this morning and just ordered a couple of them, so I'll see how they go at round 2 on December 4. I think the basic seat structure in the XR6 and the F6 is the same, but fabric would be a lot grippier than the 'leather' in the F6. I'll see how the CG Lock goes, if it keeps my hips in place I think I'll be much better off. The harness install looks great and easy, just wondering how the scrutineers will judge it the seat bolt mount points, they seem to get more fussy at every event and the CAMS schedule only mentions seat belt points as acceptable (but doesn't say what isn't). The NT01s were excellent but in the F6 I only have the Sport Maxx to compare them to. I've driven R888s before (a swift sport on the ring, and my E21 bimmer), and these aren't much different, definitely not as soft/squidgy feeling but I was running 36psi cold as I got a fricken screw through the front right just after I put them on, so I was nervous about the fresh puncture repair and didn't want too much tyre deformation.

My fastest run from last night's rallysprint, finished 29th outright in a field of 77, 10th in class, though partly assisted by the rain that swept in halfway through the night. The only thing I could fault about the car was the support from the driver's seat, so that's next on the list. Otherwise I think I might be driving the ultimate all rounder!

I was shopping for track rims a while back and Koya didn't make the cut based on what I read. You're obviously pushing a heavy car very hard, but to see a wheel crack like that makes me question the quality of the cast. At least you got some warning! I went with Enkei PF01, just under $1600 from Autotechnik, they fit over the 6/4 Brembos, fairly light weight but a strong looking spoke design. Yet to be tested though, first event is tomorrow so I'll see how they go.

I don't think they'd be a good street tyre, from what I've read they're diabolical in the wet, and can't deal with standing water at all. They're stamped 'for competition use only' and 'not suitable for highway use' on the side, so even though they're technically road legal it would probably be an issue if a pedantic cop pulled you over. The R888 is a better tyre for wet conditions, but noisy as hell and if you did any sort of street mileage on them you'd be replacing them pretty often.

I literally just posted some pics of the PF01 on my petroleum F6, see the link below. I think they look bloody awesome, I don't wanna take them off! Might have to buy another set as a daily... http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/48416-rims-what-have-you-got/page-34#entry1506783

I just mounted my Enkei PF01s (with Nitto NT01s) on my F6. Fronts are 18x8.5 et30 with 245/40, rears are 18x9.5 et35 with 275/35. Haven't taken them out cause it's gonna rain and I don't want to die. They're for the track only, but damn, they look so much better than I thought they would! I was going to plastidip them grey, but they look perfect in silver. I love the 18" size with the higher profile rubber, looks mean. I'll get to test them properly in 3 weeks, can't wait! By the way the car is lowered on Shockworks coilovers, 355mm hub to arch. Also worth mentioning weight reduction, compared to the standard 19x8 FPV rims with 245 Sport Maxx rubber, which weigh 24.2kg. The Enkei fronts are only 20.6kg and the rears are 22.4, so total reduction in unsprung weight is 10.8kg.

just did a trial mount of my new Enkei PF01s, 18x8.5 et30 at the front and 18x9.5 et35 rear. I knew they'd fit the car cause I saw a post here from Bulletime and sent a few PMs confirming the fit. I can also say that they fit over the Brembo 6/4 brakes with literally tons of room. Could fit a small animal between the rear spokes and caliper. Front caliper has more than a 1cm clearance to spokes, and plenty of space between caliper edge and rim. They look pretty sweet too, but I'll probably plastidip them grey. Going to mount R888s on them, 245 front 275 rear, in time for the Rallysprint on November 6. Can't wait! Front: front spoke 6 pot clearance: Rear: Rear 4 pot spoke clearance:

great vid thanks for putting it together, the blurt up the onramp gave me a good idea of what 350rwkw is like, too much for me I think, would be a handful on the track! Exhaust sounds good, seemed a bit boomy down low but similar to the 3" exhaust I had on my old XR5, and that was pretty tame really. I think I've just got used to the silence of the stock F6 exhaust, it's significantly quieter than my wife's unmodified GTI which is saying something. Interesting comments about the diff, I've done 15,000km in 6 months including two track days, so might look into changing the oil soon.

just replace the cat back section. There are plenty of options that will bolt up to the stock cat, but I think you'll be limited on size. There won't be any increase in flow while the standard cat is in place, so no need for a tune. just realised the OP is a month old, probably got an answer already

I'm pretty happy with the noise my car makes with the Herrod intake. If the intake muffler is what is giving me the 'tututu' turkey noise from the recirc valve then it's welcome to stay, even if it's ugly to look at!