furiousgibbon

well it's always gonna be a heavy car you can't do much about that, but for 1800kg it handles well with just coilovers and tyres, and the straight line performance makes up for any shortfall. I also have a Clio 182 which is known for its handling and only weighs a tonne, and yes it's sharper and more responsive but I don't think the F6 is a boat in comparison. I just tell anyone who calls it a boat to keep up with me on track, they normally shut up.

if you think the falcon handles like a boat you need to get some shockworks on it, I reckon it corners like a champ, with NT01 rspecs my F6 is pretty damn competitive in a field of dedicated track cars. I recently took it out on track with Invos and I thought it was squirmy and all over the place, so it all depends on the tyres. Had good turn in though so I rate Invos for that, you can tell the tread is designed for lateral grip. My rears are shagged so it was just constant power oversteer, but the shockworks keep the car sorted even at pretty extreme angles, I.e. no wallowing snapback when you straighten it up. I'm looking for better rears though, I found Bridgestone RE11, close enough to being an rspec but it's a road tyre. Available in only 2 sizes which just happen to be what I need. Perfect. Except there are none available and no one can tell me when or if they will be available again. FFFFKkkn hell. I think I'll have to look at Pilot Super Sports but $650 per tyre hurts.

thanks guys, I think I'll go ahead with stock injectors and derestricted cat, there will surely be headroom in there just a matter of how much. Talking to these shops I can tell they're keen to sell 'best practice' as it's more parts/money and I don't blame them, but if the end result is crap it'll just cost me a bit more to make it right. Worth a shot I reckon.

that's interesting to read as I've seen the results XFT have got with the euro4 cat, I even read of a guy here taking a Venom 100cpi cat to them and had it handed back in favour of the the derestricted stock one. Difficult to get a consistent view on this sorta stuff. I spoke to XFT as well and mentioned what I was after and they said just to knock the restrictor out. Unfortunately they want to remove the engine to do the oil pump gears ($$$) which is why I'll be going to MT for that work. I could take the car to both shops but I'm trying to keep things simple, and whatever the stock cat and injectors are capable of shouldn't change just because I drive to a different shop. If the standard car puts down ~260-270rwkw then 290 isn't necessarily a bad thing, as I guess that would be within spec for the stock injectors as well. Really all I want is to be able to use the new IC safely... Not trying to be a cheaparse but given how this car puts so many others to shame on track I can't see the point spending $10k and having more power than I can put to the ground ...

I'll be taking my FG F6 into Monsta Torque next month for billet oil pump gears (manual + track time + occasional limiter, getting nervous), and I've decided while it's in there I might as well get it tuned. I actually think the car has plenty of performance on street and track, but I'm ordering a Jonny Tig stepped IC and to use that it will need an adjustment of some sort anyway. Only other thing I've got at the moment is a Herrod intake for extra noise. I'll be keeping the stock exhaust and cutting the restrictor ring out, but I'm also wondering whether I can stick with the standard F6 injectors? From what I read tuners prefer the 1000cc as they're easier to tune, flow matched etc, but if I'm not chasing any kW number or ET, is it really necessary? I'd like a noticeable bump in performance but I still want power to peak around the 5500rpm range, rather than an inflated mid range tapering off to the same power up top. I know, talk to the tuner, but I have and I know ever tuner's recommendation is to use 1000cc injectors and high flow cat as a minimum. That will help make additional power more easily, but is it essential for a mild tune?

anyone here own the silver F6 I followed for a while on the kwinana this arvo? 1ELW or something. Bloody hot looking car, perfect stance. I wanna know what power/torque it's putting out, cause it fkn hauled ass and didn't look like it had any traction issues.

http://www.atomicperformanceproducts.com/price_list.html page 6

bloody hell. Is it the same standard kit on the F6? I've hit the rev limiter so many times, mostly during rallysprints but recently a few times on the street when I'm just not paying enough attention, it whips up there so damn quick. The rev limiter isn't very abrupt either. Redline on the F6 is 6200rpm and the limiter seems to be only 100rpm or so beyond that. I just looked up the cost of the Atomic kit, doesn't seem too much if the standard kit really is that weak. Is it a big job to swap the pump and gears out?

that sounds bloody amazing, can almost feel the boost ramp up. What do you think of the sound of the twin 3" Manta?

thanks Dan, I bought my braided lines from Matt at Racebrakes, seems like a nice guy so I'll give him a call and ask about pads. I have seen the Project Mu NS400s mentioned a few times, will do some reading. I get a bit of low speed 'taxi squeal' from the OE brembo pads which I'm ok with, but noise like the HC800s make (which from what I read are supposed to be relatively quiet!) would literally do my head in.

on the topic of brakes, I'm looking for new front pads for the Brembo 6 for street/track, I'm not doing EBC reds cause I ran 3 sets of those on my XR5 and they seemed to have a knack for warping rotors. A mate had Project Mu HC800s on a his STI, good braking performance but the squeal gave me hearing damage, can't believe they're marketed as a street/track pad. Then there's DS2500 which seems to be a good all rounder except for dust, which I really could't give a crap about as I have matte black wheels. Are there any other options? Where's the best place to get the Ferodo pads? As for fluid, the Penrite 600 is about $30 for 500ml. Probably the best value for the performance. I spend a bit more for Motul 660 ($50/500ml, cheaper on ebay). I've boiled brake fluid once on track, I'm happy to spend money to ensure it never happens again!

yeah the clunk is normal. I describe it as a sudden grinding/scraping noise with a distinct kick on the pedal. I'm not sure what exactly causes it, probably the hydraulics releasing pressure suddenly and the ABS system starting the automatic modulation. I've hammered the brakes enough times to know it's normal. If it indicated a problem with my brakes, I'd have put the car into a concrete barrier by now. I've just got braided lines and new 660 fluid in, did a quick brake check to test the pedal firmness and managed to overcome the grip in my nitto invos almost immediately. It doesn't take much on street rubber. My NT01s hang on way longer on track.

this. The ABS kick in my F6 is exactly the same in my mate's STI, same in my old XR5, GTI, ancient E34 bimmer... feels like the front of the car is scraping the road and the pedal sinks and then kicks abruptly. Better tyres will mean you can brake a lot harder before ABS has to intervene.

I don't think much of the Invos, I find them pretty noisy and the tread favours cornering traction over straight line traction. For the first 500km I hated them, so greasy, wanted to go back to the old sport maxx! After that they started hooking up ok, now just a chirp or 3 into second in my stock F6 manual, first gear is useful enough, second gear is ok. Wouldn't get them again. I just picked up a set of Michelin Pilot Sport 3 for my father in law for half the local retail price. KTAS actually beat a price from Tempe, $154 each fitted for 235/40/18s for my father in law's BMW, they weren't happy about it but they did it. Worth a shot to just show them the net price of these grey importers and you might get lucky. I don't think I've ever got a tyre that cheap in my life. As for spotted, white G6E XFG767 on the kwinana last night or the night before, cleanest car I'd seen for a week, I've seen a pic of this before, hot as hell. Was sad that he didn't open it up as he passed me near the roe hwy clusterfck merge point, really wanted to hear that exhaust.

if anyone in Perth is after a set of these wheels PM me (hope this is ok, sorry if not). I listed them a while back but not much interest other than from interstate, but not the easiest items to transport!

Rallysprint round 5, last of the series, got another 10th in class, 33/67 outright and another point taking my total to 3. I think I could've got 9th in class for 2 points, but I had a bit of a 'can't be arsed' feeling this round and the tyres are definitely past their prime. I'm going to run higher tyre pressure with the next ones, been on 32 cold but the fronts are flogged after only 60 minutes of this stuff. My friend runs AD08Rs at 38 cold in his STI and it grips really well. This is a vid of what would have been my best run, but I clipped a chicane (I think I just ran over the base) and copped a 5 second penalty. My other 3 runs were still good enough for a point and I finally finished ahead of that awesome SS ute you see at the start of the vid!

Work Emotion CR Kiwami (what a mouthful), matte black in 19x8.5 et25 and 19x9.5 et38. Thanks Seaton for the idea and purchasing advice and everyone else who made suggestions on tyres etc.

From what I've read, XFT uses the mk2 cat with the restrictor ring removed over the Venom 100cpi. There's one post I saw where XFT handed back the Venom cat to the customer and said don't bother. If you want an awesome clean noise with a great off-throttle flutter, go the Herrod. They probably all sound similar but I've got the Herrod and I love it, even my wife loves the sound. I've tried the PW intake muffler delete, don't bother, yes it increases noise but it sounds dirty and crap. It actually ruined the sound of the Herrod intake, so I sold it. Change all the pipes when you tune it, I've already split one of the stock boost pipes without any mods at all, I can only imagine it getting worse as you add boost. Seems like MT recommends 1000cc injectors as well even with their base package, XFT seems to stick with the stock ones to a certain point. Lots of people running in the 330rwkw range with stock injectors, but that might be pushing them. All of this just comes from reading the forums, haven't actually got my F6 tuned yet!

I don't think it'll lower a G6E much if at all. I sold my F6 springs/dampers to a guy with a G6E, but I'm pretty sure he was just going to use the dampers along with some aftermarket springs. Here's how it looked originally:

Rallysprint round 4 last night. I gave all I had in the first run and was sitting 6th in class and 27th outright, but then a combination of high humidity/slick track and a very, very close call on my second run made me wind things back a little. My primary goal is to drive home and not go home in a tow truck or ambulance! Finished 10th in class, 37th outright. Scored my second point for the season! A video of my fastest run, which for a change was my first run and not in pitch darkness.

I realise this post was made nearly 2 years ago but just looking to do an oil change at 22500, I just looked in the service booklet for my 2014 and it says 15w40 Castrol GTX Professional mineral oil. Anyway I'll get back in my box and keep reading.

yeah it very well could have been the track time that ruined those KU39s. The tread was pretty low so just keep an eye on them, I might have got an old batch that had been sitting in the sun for 5 years (bought them cheap from Tempe). I don't get the KU31->39 difference, I understood it as a successor but for some reasons the 31 is still sold in some sizes. I read that the 39 is better, I couldn't really tell a difference but they were much quieter when they were worn. Some people reckon the grip just falls off a cliff after 10,000km, similar to the Dunlops we were cursed with. As for the Goodyear AS2s, I picked up the ones for the Golf from Rubal at Croydon Tyres, he had some amazing prices on common sizes like 225/40/18, was about $160 per tyre! I'd like to support local tyre shops (the independent ones), but we just get so ripped in WA on tyres that I can't help but order them in from over east. Seaton I don't think I'm gonna risk running the 285, the Invo is actually 288mm wide and even the NT01 in 275 (which is 277mm wide) on a +35 offset is close enough to the arm. I reckon a 19" +38 will require cutting that plastic brake line clip off, but if that didn't give enough clearance I'd be stuffed. I'm still running stock power so 275 Invos will surely give me enough traction. What every happened to those modified control blades that were mentioned in the early pages of this thread?

thanks Bizkets, just called Taleb and they have the Invo 245 at $230 each delivered to Perth and the 275s are $325 each, swoite. PTR, I've run the KU39s before too and they're good, I actually competed in a couple of rallysprints and they did a pretty good job for a street tyre, but they had some serious issues as they got older, weird cracks/splits right across the face of the tyre. Never saw that with the KU31s. I don't think I'd run them again.

thanks Seaton, that rules NT05s out, I'm guessing the noise is similar to the NT01s but quieter. That would drive me nuts on the commute each day. I'll call around today to try and find Invos, they're listed on the Nitto website in 275/30 so they must be out there somewhere.. just at what cost. They are available in 285 but from what I read that could be hit and miss on clearance, I'd prefer to play it safe and get 275s. actually I just went and looked, they're available and bloody cheap ($266 each). Time to do some more reading on potential fit issues!

I ordered some wheels last week and *then* started shopping for tyres. I have 19x8.5 and 19x9.5 on the way over, in hindsight I should have gone 18 but it's done now. Not a huge amount of tyres in 275/30/19 to choose from! I was keen on Invos but I've just had a reply from st george (where I got my NT01s) that they're not available in that size. Goodyear AS2s are available at a ball hurting $550 a piece, but at the moment this is my best option. I know these tyres are good though cause I run them on my wife's GTI, so an expensive but safe bet. heaps more availability and lower prices in 35 profile but that will push the car up 12mm, sit 12mm closer to the wheel arch and will change my speedo reading by a decent amount. st george has NT05s at a good price in 245/35 and 275/30, does anyone run them as a street tyre? What are they like in the wet and what is the noise like? I want something that's very high performance but it will be a street tyre only. There are lower end options like KU31s which are always a bargain, but I've had 3 sets of those on my old XR5 and while they're good for the price, I think I want a better tyre for the F6.