furiousgibbon

got it to happen again today, ran 2nd to the top, shifted into 3rd, about half a second later it jolted twice pretty harshly. Felt like complete throttle cut. Filled up this afternoon and gave it a belt through first and second and it was fine. If I can get it to happen on a full tank I'll post again, but right now I'm thinking this expensive AI in-tank solution isn't doing its job...

no pinging, but I don't normally run the tank this low (habit from before I had the surge module). It was pretty damn hot today too. I haven't put fuel in it so I'll give it another test tomorrow, just don't want to go damaging the engine by making it happen again.

bumping this thread rather than making a new one - not sure whether I had fuel surge today but the comment from gaz about 'going through the windscreen' sounds similar to what I felt. About 60km range so maybe 10L in the tank, WOT in first to redline, hard shift to second, then WOT again when it cut power abruptly, and heard a chirp from the rear tyres. Traction was off. I lifted off and then got back on it for a moment and it was fine. Tune is pretty mild only 15psi / 335rwkw. Recently had an AI in-tank surge installed, would have thought that plus 10L fuel should be enough?

yeah the jonny tig stepped cooler pushes the top of the radiator back around 25mm, which doesn't leave much space between the fan shroud and the belts. Can't really fault the performance of the intercooler, did a great job on the street right through summer with 360kw, but not much point having it if the engine overheats after a couple of minutes of WOT.

Disappointed to hear that fenix heavy duty radiators are no longer an option, I had pretty much made the decision to give one a try. No chance I'll fit a pwr radiator behind this Jonny tig cooler. Curious to know what intercoolers are in use on cars that are overheating, and what power they're generating? I didn't have any issue with F6 stock cooler/stock power except for one day when it was 43C and it hit coolant warning after about 2-3 mins on track. With the 335kw tune plus the Jonny tig IC I was getting coolant warning after 3-4 mins but ambient temp was less than 20. Undertray was not installed so that might have contributed. At the moment I'm thinking my options are, switch to a plazmaman 700 or 800hp tube and fin cooler, get it retuned and try my luck with a pwr radiator (could insulate the end tanks to avoid contact?), or, see if jonny tig could make me a customer cooler minus the stepped top section, which would open up the radiator to more air flow. I'm not sure why intercoolers on these cars are so tall, but I'd hope a good quality lower section would still be able to handle ~330 on track and ~360 on street?

Depends on the scrutineer, most of the guys at open track days just look to see you have an extinguisher and that it's firmly fixed to the car. Others (the ones at the rallysprints are very picky) check tag and sometimes even the date stamp on the bottom of the extinguisher (supposed to be less than 2 years since manufacture date). You can get them tested/tagged for $5-10 at any fire services shop

I made one from some scrap steel that I picked up from the tip. This is the second one I've made, first was for my old XR5 and that was much simpler and sturdier. This one is a few pieces bolted together but it's been passed multiple times by some of the pickiest CAMS scrutineers I've come across. It holds a 2kg extinguisher which was a requirement for an event I was entering, most general track days only require 1kg. Trim doesn't fit over the top, couldn't be bothered designing something that looked good, just needed to be functional and easy to install/remove.

First time in a long time that I've had a chance to give it a wash. The car gets a lot of looks since this IC went in, not necessarily what I was after but it's definitely cool as hell. For anyone considering the same IC/piping kit, the standard intake won't fit at all and the Herrod intake hits the top radiator mount (as it gets shifted back to fit the IC) and will need to be modified slightly to fit correctly. Still loving this power, I've switched tunes a few times but the 335kw track tune is definitely my favorite. Has the best throttle response and torque delivery. IMS diff had is going well too, I used OE side bushes so there is no increase in NVH.

thanks for the tip, if the OE one is 26mm I'd wonder about a 42mm fitting anyway as there isn't much space to the belt pulleys as it sits now. I might look into getting a custom one made, could possibly get better efficiency without it having to be heaps thicker than stock. Or just swap the IC out for a plazmaman or something, but that would be a shame.

Thanks, I looked up Fenix radiators and it seems they do a 28mm standard, 32mm 'heavy duty' and 42mm 'performance' radiators for the FG. I don't really want to go to the effort of changing this IC out for something smaller so the PWR radiator is not going to be an option, but 42mm could work... pretty bloody tight in there though. Even though the tune I was running was supposed to be a track tune, I might get another one done with much lower boost. No point running a tune that the cooling system can't handle for more than a few minutes.. reminds me of the hours wasted overclocking PCs...

Yeah, lots of time lost all round, combination of being unwell and not having any confidence left in these tyres, they've been through a lot of events in the last 3 years, way overdue for replacement. I was half a second off the time I set with stock power. I'll look into oil coolers, I noticed oil temp was getting up there too but gauges based on derived values always read wild on track. I should get a proper sensor put in. I've looked into pwr radiators before but read comments about them corroding from coming in contact with the car. I'd probably give it a crack now but I think I'll have to change IC to be able to fit one in...

I took the F6 back out to Barbagallo yesterday for the Infinite Time Attack event. Pretty good event, mostly jap cars but some of them were bloody rapid. F6 was faster than most though! Lots of traffic so it was difficult to get clean hotlaps. This was my first time on track since getting some work done to the car (2 tunes, venom cat, 1000cc injectors, jonny tig IC, oil pump gears, IMS diff hat). I was running the track tune which is a smooth 335kw at the hubs at 6krpm. It felt bloody good, great power, not wild out of corners and it felt like it would rev way past 6k, but unfortunately I was feeling pretty unwell, and with well worn NT01s and brake fluid that hasn't been changed in 2.5 years I wasn't pushing it hard. Still managed a 1.08.7 long track and 58.7 short track, which was good enough for 10th and 8th outright in each layout. Big problem was the bloody thing overheated in less than 3 laps and ambient temp was only 19! I've had the car overheat before on track but that was on a 42C day, so understandable. This was really disappointing. The undertray has been removed, I think because the radiator needs to be moved back to fit this IC, so that's gonna be part of the problem as I'm thinking that would create positive air pressure behind the radiator. But that can't be the only thing. I think I've screwed my chances for a larger radiator with this IC... gonna have to figure something out as track days temperatures don't get much milder than this... video of my best lap on each layout. I thought the short track was awesome fun, got to use 2nd gear and skip the frustrating basin.

I've owned my manual 2014 F6 from new and never thought it was lacking power, but I always said that once it's out of factory warranty it's going to get a poke in the engine bay, and a few other mods to make it a solid car for as long as I want it. I'd already done a few things to the car to support track use over the years - Brembo 6/4 brakes from factory, DBA5000 2 piece front rotors, braided lines and high temp fluid, Ferodo DS2500 pads, Shockworks coilovers, staggered 19" Work wheels with 245/275 Pirelli PZero tyres. I run staggered 18" Enkeis with Nitto NT01s for track. I'd also installed a Herrod intake for increased turkey sounds. I dropped the car off at Monsta Torque and they fitted an IMS diff hat and new OE front diff bushes, billet oil pump gears, Venom 100cpi cat, Jonny Tig stepped intercooler and piping kit, 1000cc injectors and two dyno tunes - one specific for track use with a focus on smooth, controllable delivery and consistent power that peaks at 6000rpm, and the other one a bit more wild, something that I could short shift on the street and have some fun. The car put out a high 307kW in its existing form (on the hub dyno), but that run was done with the venom cat installed as my original was failing and a bolt snapped off in the flange when it was removed to do the oil pump gears. Rob said a stock F6 normally puts out 280-290kW on this hub dyno. The peak output of the tunes are 335kW @ ~6000rpm for the track tune and 363kW @ ~5800rpm for the street tune, with torque peaks of 620Nm and 700Nm respectively. I did have torque curve printouts but I've misplaced them, they were flat as a table all the way through. Rob ran the track tune up again afterwards and it generated 337kW. I gave the street tune a decent go but it's pretty lairy, need to ease open the throttle in the lower half of the rev range to avoid lighting it up. It hooks up perfectly in 3rd gear WOT from 80km/h and is kind of insane. A fun tune but one I'll probably only use occasionally. The track tune is absolute perfection. I couldn't imagine anything better than this. Traction is even better than stock. First gear hooks up perfectly, then a bit of a scrabble into second before it just fires the car down the road with ridiculous pace. Torque delivery is perfect and peak power at 6000rpm makes the engine feel limitless. Image shows track tune (red) and street tune (blue). Stock readout was on another sheet but not a useful reference as it was done with the cat installed. Can't wait to get this onto the track!

curious as to why you went back for more power? My F6 factory warranty has just expired, and I've got a venom cat, jonny tig IC and IMS diff hat to install, will get injectors and tune at monsta torque. I was planning on asking for 2 tunes, one for track (bump up the stock power curve, eliminate the mid range torque dip, keep peak power at around 6krpm), thinking around 310rwkw. Second tune will be whatever they can do, I figured with the bolt ons I'd be looking at 350rwkw and thought that would be plenty mental. Were you not happy with that power? I wanna get this right first time...

Thanks man, sorry not sure what's up with the PMs, shouldn't be full. I usually go for the firmer shock settings, the first few rallysprints I drove in I had them set to just past halfway, but it still felt very soft. I gradually upped them until I hit max. The shockworks are pretty tame compared to something like Tein. On the street I used to run them about halfway and it had a good blend of ride quality and handling. Since the barbagallo track session where I had max front and 2-3 notches down at the rear, I haven't turned them down again. With the lighter Work wheels and now with 2-piece DBA5000 rotors on (which were massively lighter than the stock Brembo rotors), I find it to be perfect on the street. The way it goes around corners with the softer setting on the rear is just spot on. I don't think I'll change it again. As for those rallysprints, I had a few close calls where I would have rolled my car or seriously damaged it, so the F6 won't be driven there again anytime soon! I bought a Clio 182 specifically for rallysprints, poured lots of money into it to get it into the right spec, but then the engine let go. I'm just gonna stick with the casual track days from now on, way more fun and less stress.

Took the F6 to Barbagallo for the first time. I've driven it at RAC, Collie and the rallysprints, but it felt really at home here. The grip was the most impressive thing, those NT01s hold on way longer than I expected in the long sweeping corners. Fair amount of wear but a lot of laps. Really predictable handling from the Shockworks coilovers, set max at the front and a 2-3 notches down on the rear, just cause I couldn't be arsed getting on the ground to change them. It felt perfect anyway, still really balanced, slightly better turn in than I'm used to and the squat under acceleration out of corners felt like it was sticking the car to the ground. Stock power feels perfect, 195 down the hill (according to the GPS, I saw 202 indicated), and slingshot acceleration up the hills. Still planning to give it a tweak into the low 300rwkw range next year but there's really no need. My car does have that weird dip in the mid range (seen it on a few dyno charts from others) so at least that would go. Best lap time was 1:09.2, and there's definitely more in it, first time out didn't want to be calling a tow truck. I gave the keys to a mate and finally got to hear the car from the outside going flat out, stock exhaust sounds awesome! Bloody hell I love this car.

I went with the standard P-Zero. It's hard to figure out how the hierarchy goes, there's P-Zero, P-Zero Rosso (low end, avoid), P-Zero Nero and Nero GT (mid range, wouldn't bother), and P-Zero Corsa System, which I think uses different treads and compounds front/rear for maximum performance ,but I didn't look into them much. Pretty sure the one on the new Sprint is just the standard P-Zero. I have only read good things about them, I paid just over $1400 but I needed 275s at the rear. I did look at RE003 and S001 but the cost was a little bit more and I think the P-Zero will be the better tyre.

and... they're gone

I'm replacing my tyres today and will have two good 245/35/19 Nitto Invos that will either go to waste or go to someone. Does anyone have a need for them? They're a year old, done about 20,000 freeway ks and one track day, only replacing them cause I flogged the rears and they're like ice skates, so replacing the lot with P-Zeros. No cost but I'm not hanging onto them.

I think they cop of a lot of flak that's undeserved. They weren't brilliant tyres but I didn't think they were that bad. They seem to do ok in tyre roundups. My biggest grief was uneven wear which I haven't got with my Invos (alignment has not been touched). I ditched them at 20,000 km but I also pushed them on track and for a street tyre I thought they were good, I knew exactly what was going on, no squirming like I had with the Invos on track, and they hung on pretty well under brakes before ABS had to kick in.

I went manual for my F6 but it was a tough choice. The auto was bloody good and felt way faster. The manual is clunky and noisy but I ended up loving it, wouldn't have it any other way now. Great on track, fun on the street, tolerable in traffic. If auto was the only choice I'd have been happy too. I'd probably curse peak hour traffic less. I initially thought auto only in the 6 sprint was a bad idea but I reckon it makes sense. It's a much better match to the turbo 6. I just prefer more control.

this really does nothing for me. The wheels would have looked good in silver, in black they just look pov. The rest of the car looks vanilla and the that sticker is tacky. Definitely doesn't look like something carrying the highest performance turbo 6 they ever produced. That pic from direct front-on could be mistaken for an XR6 cab chassis. Makes me love my fg2 F6 even more.

I have yep, most of the ebay listings are from places like st george, tempe etc. It's cheaper just calling them direct as they don't cop the ebay fees. Pretty sure they only deal in grey imports though which is how they get their prices so low. I have a suspicion the ExtremeContact that I'd tried purchasing through tyresales are grey imports, which explains why they're old, cheap and aren't listed on the Australian Continental site. I think I'll either just go another couple of Invos for the rear (not keen on mixing tyre types) or cough up for a set of ContiSportContact 5P. Not being able to rotate is a big drawback of staggered fitment.

thanks, I did consider NT05s even though I read they're pretty noisy, but I already have Invos which I got from Taleb and they have been poor, all 4 tyres were out of round so they vibrate when cold. The rears are worn through but even though the fronts are still fine I'm replacing them. I use Nitto NT01s on my track wheels and they are fine, but gonna try one of the more common brands for my next set of street tyres. Might have to try my luck with the 4 year old Contis.

anyone running higher-than-stock profile tyres? I've been trying to find 245/35/19 and 275/30/19 high performance tyres at a decent price and it's getting frustrating. I ordered a set of Continental ExtremeContact from tyresales for $1199, then they tell me the manufacture date is too old (2012) so they want to cancel my order. I can still get them if I really want but not sure. It will cost me at least $500 more to get a set of equivalent tyres locally (Bridgestone S001 or Conti 5P), or I can go for a higher profile (245/40 and 275/35) in an RE003 or similar for about $300 more. I know it will screw up my speedo a bit but my car is lowered on shockworks (355mm hub to guard) and I don't want any fitment issues. Looking online the sidewall size difference seems to be pretty significant...