straughsberry

While they are an awesome piece of work, they're not perfect and the odd one goes south. Having said that, I've never heard of one going south in 3 days after a rebuid. But knowing the 'tuner'/'mechanic' who did the work, I am not surprised. This is the same 'tuner'/'mechanic' who once told me that he was rebuilding a BTR under warranty (sound familiar) for a customer. The customer was to pay for a gearset and labour was free. He was charging the customer $1000 dollars for a brand new Ford gearset but was actually fitting a second hand one which cost him $300. *beep*. Once again, sorry to hijack.

You may have already damaged clutches so not tune will get rid of the issue. I'd like to see the state of the clutches. I doubt it's a valve body or solenoid. More likely burnt clutches because of removed torque tags and too much boost down low. My 2 cents...

Sniper, dyno in bits, problems with the tune, experienced Ford tuner? Be careful, very careful.

Sorry to hijack... Tony I don't know you personally but trust me, things are not what they seem with him. He was kicked out of the premises at Charles St. Coburg (which he told everyone he owned) for failing to pay rent. Why don't you contact the land-lords of the last two properties he was in to ask them for a reference? See what they have to say about it. I've done a lot of digging and while I wont go into too many details here, I know of at least 6 individuals (including members of this forum and 5 of whom I've been in contact with) who collectively have been ripped of for more than $50,000. Australia and NZ. There's plenty of smoke out there to tell you there's a fire nearby. You just have to do some digging. Ask around. Why do you think he got kicked of the other forum? Do you think they'd boot a sponsor without some sort of proof of a misdealing? Probably not. If you care to meet me, there's plenty I can tell and show you. I would hate for you, or anyone else for that matter, to get entangled in his web and end up ripped off like many others. Anyway, good luck with it all.

So how is the Wog doing now that he's been booted out of yet another factory?

I got this noise after a tune. To me, it sounds like a diaphragm noise or similar.

I wouldn't want a manual as a daily driver if I was in traffic for 2 hours a day. I had an XY a with top loader, 351, 9 inch, twin plate clutch (later went to single plate) and drove it 2.5 hours a day 5 days a week in peak hour Melbourne city traffic. I hated it after a while even though I loved the car. Weekends was a different story. I reckon: For the fun factor: manual For track days: manual For straight line: auto For towing: auto For 'heavy' daily driving: auto For the fully sik never off the spool experience: auto

Car went in to RVO Automatics today to get the 4l65e conversion on the go. I'll be needing a new shifter and at the moment, I'm keen on the B&M Console Quicksilver. Only downside is it doesn't come in a RHD version so the gear indicator is on the wrong side. Having a look-see for shifters recently, I must say there's stuff all out there as far as modern aftermarket 4 speed shifters is concerned. Also, got a look at the head on Friday. New valve seats on inlet and some extra porting to take advantage of the 2mm larger valve. Frank has also welded extra material around exhaust ports to take the 50mm OD manifold which has a fairly large head plate. Looking good

NP.

I've still got 1 set of Argo rods and Mahle Powerpak pistons going real cheap if anybody needs them. Cheers.

You mean the same noise as in this vid at about 10 seconds?

Hey Trav. Moving forward, yes. There yet, no. Went and had a look at the head on Friday. It has been modified for larger intake and exhaust valves with new seats and a little extra porting to take advantage of the 2mm larger intake valves. Engine will get a dummy up next week to work out comp ratio (aiming for around 9:1). The car is going in to RVO Automatics next week to begin the 4l65 conversion so that will take a little mucking around to get things to fit/work. We're going to get it working with the current 370rwkw standard engine/turbo setup to iron out any fitment issues etc. We'll get the converter re-stalled once the big-banger goes in. All good. Getting closer and closer.

Mix it urself

After installing a converter of about 2700 rpm I went from 350rwkw to 369rwkw on slightly less boost (about 1 psi less). I did install new coil packs at the same time and my converter is a modified and upgraded standard converter. I can't say if this was due to just the new coils or that a standard converter is more efficient than some of the after market units or that keeping the stall to 2700rpm also helped not suck power. Needless to say, I am very happy with the converter.

You'll definitely need fuel pump and valve springs. After I had my car tuned, my fuel economy for "off boost" driving increased over factory. I noticed around 1L/100km better city and 1.5L/100km highway better. But as Mick said, use your new found power and you can watch your fuel economy disappear like Hawthorn's form this year.

In a manual.

Who mentioned rwkw figures? Not me. Unless your disagreeing with yourself

No that would be awesome. A side-by-side manual/auto run, both in the 9's. But to do the battle justice, an 8 would be required by the auto as a 9 second manual demands it IMHO. Did someone say side-by-side Gtech V Spiro-tech run at Calder on a Friday night street meeting???

I've talked to a tuner whose tuned the Xspurt 1000cc injector a few times. He said they're awesome. Excellent idle and control.

Bad luck Spiro and team. But knowing Spiro, I think this is just a minor bump in the road. You've probably got it covered and then some. Keep up the good work. We will see that 10.

FYI, I'm running 370rwkw @ 17psi on stock F6 bottom end still using the stock crossover. Unless you want it tidied up for looks, you don't really need to change it. Boost shouldn't be an issue but as always, better to get it on the dyno than to take a chance.

Congrats to Mum and Dad.

Bigger injectors and fuel pump. You can work out your extra fuel requirements by using a higher BSFC for e85. Typically, a BSFC of .6 to .65 is used for forced induction engines. I used .65 to be safe for my big banger build. For e85, I'm reading anywhere from 20%-30% more fuel is required. So if you multiply your BSFC by 1.2-1.3, you can work out how much more flow you'll need from your injectors and your fuel pump. Depending on what pump/injector setup you have, it will mean either a higher base fuel pressure setting or bigger pump and injectors. Some calculations I used to work out injector and pump requirements. For normal fuel I used a BSFC of .65 and 'safe' duty cycle of .9: To work out your injector flow: fuel flow per injector = ((BHP x BSFC) / # of injectors) / safe duty cycle To work out an injectors flow if you increase base fuel pressure: new flow rate = old flow rate x √(new pressure / old pressure) To work out a 'safe' max BHP figure for an injector: max safe BHP = ((injector size x number of injectors) x (safe duty cycle)) / BSFC To work out required injector size: required injector size = √(rated pressure/new pressure) x required flow To work out how much pressure your pump will need to work against (delta pressure): delta pressure = fuel rail pressure + manifold pressure (boost) To work out fuel pump BHP potential: fuel pump BHP potential = (fuel pump capacity (lb/hr) / safe duty cycle) / BSFC

Spool it spool it! I was waiting, waiting all the time waiting. But alas, the video is entitled 'BA FALCON FIRST START'. I'll have to dream about tonight. The BW units have a unique sound. Can't wait to hear it under my bonnet. Good luck this weekend Spiro.

Seems like a regular occurrence. Have to say, the rest of the system is still in good shape. Week link seems to be the CAT and fitment.