straughsberry

Well this thread took off like a rocket. On Monday the car goes in to get suspension. It would seem Tein is trying to get their for-Australian coilovers out there and are offering some ripper prices, so I've decided to go with them. Also whiteline 30mm/22mm sway bars, camber/caster kit, setup, wheel alignment, bump stops etc etc etc. The Teins were not that much more than Bilstein struts and King springs. Then on Tuesday, the 19's go on - I'll be stylin'! It'll still be pulling 14's, but at least it will look (and handle) good doing it! I'll post some picks soon.

Maybe cheap from China dyno it is? Read the instructions that came with it and you may find that there is no mention of kilowatt. They may be using the lesser known, and lesser rated "killerwatts".

So why where the posts removed? I suppose "Look out m8 do not let the minister of finance see this post or ......." is on topic. As least I/we mentioned the motor, an integral part of the topic in fact. I don't think you should discriminate because you don't like certain flavours of humour.

This has come up a few times lately. I got mine for $2250 delivered. I could probably still get the same deal. Let me know if you can't beat that. FYI, I am not making a single cent on it!

As the others have said, sooner or later, plan for a rebuild. As to when, that depends a lot on how you treat it. Constant WOT, burnouts, full throttle shifting etc will all add wear and tear. You could get a few years out of it (doubt it) but you could get 6 months or less. Don't forget when these cars are tuned they're making oooodles of metal-bending torque and apart from a full-on drage box, no 4 speed, modded or not, can handle that sort of punishment for ever. If you got the cash, go a c10 or similar and throw in a Gear Vendors overdrive. You'll have a trully tough 6 speed that's a life-time investment!

Killer!

Hey All. I purchased new wheels and am currently waiting for the tyres to come in. I ended up going with the Speed Envy MKIII's in 19x8.5 all round and Falken 452's in 245/35 all round. I was going to go with the 9.5/275 on rears which would have looked great but was not really practical in the long run. So, I now need to lower it. I'm looking around and have been quoted a price for the full Tein coilovers, camber/castor kit, 30mm/22mm non-adjustable sway bars all fitted and setup for under 3k. I know I can get an ok setup for half that price but how much better are the Teins? Can anyone offer any experiences with Teins? Any other suggestions? What are you guys running? Steph.

Toothpicks aren't that strong really...

Drive it like you stole it huh. I've know people who swear by that method. Personally, I like somewhere in between that and drive it like your 80.

This is a well known fact. But thanks for the reminder and bad luck for missing out!

Hey San. The anticipation is a killer isn't it? At 3000kms it's still not run-in. I was told that somewhere around 10000kms is probably when you can consider it "fully" run-in. I wont put a fully sythetic oil in until 5000kms. By then it should be fairly well run in. Probably 80% or so from what I've been told and read. I did not take it above 3000rpm for the first 500kms, always revving it slowly and using different gears including leaving it gear and decelrating down to idle. After than I began raising my upper limits bit by bit. By 1000kms (I did an oild change at 1000kms too, still using a mineral oil) , I was taking it to 4000rpm - again slowly and not sustained. At Around 1500kms I began doing some half throttle (which is probably about 80% acceleration) to 4500 then back off. Then I did a nice highway run over 4 days fishing at Metung and clocked up about 1200kms. After that, I took it to 5500 at full throttle a few times. I still dont give a heaps as in givving constant full throttle over long periods of time but I do take it for full throttle squirts almost daily. Once I get to 5000kms and get a full synth in, I will consider it ran-in then let the more serious mods begin. Steph.

When I cash up again! I just spent 2400 on some Speedy Envys and Falken 452's. I am probably going to do suspension over the next couple of weeks too so there's another 1500 or so. Then, for the summer, I want to do an IC on stock, or near stock piping to help keep her running niiiice! Then probably next year I will do the 300+ kw stuff... Cool, there's my life mapped out for the next few months...work, mods. work, more mods. more work, more mods

Hey All. Just thought I'd post an update on the state of my new Phoon bottom end, Nizpro valve springs and Kostecki oil pump gears. I've done 3000kms and I've started to open her up regularly and past 5500. Even in it's current near-stock incarnation, it pulls noticeably harder than before. The thing I really notice is how much more it pulls above 4000. The difference is extremely noticable. It nows pulls harder all the way to redline. Can't wait to do some slightly more serious tweakin'. Those of you with BA's wondering if you should do the valve springs - don't wonder! Just do it...

For servicing, I know a very good and above all, honest mechanic in Cheltenham if your in the S.E burbs. MAP Automotive, Arnold Street. Ask for Michael. I have been using him for the last 10+ years. You find one like that, you dont go anywhere else...

You probably should decide what kind of power you think you'd like first as this will govern what you will need to do and how much you need to spend. If you can go for a drive in a few modded T's, that will give you some idea of power levels. But basically, if you want to stay at around 250 ish rwkw, you can do it with everything you already have under your bonnet. As everyone has mentioned, an edit will get you that. I'd consider a better than stock IC though.

Free turbo whining noises from under the bonnet - that's hectic bro.

Hey all thanks for the info. The replacement motor is a stock post 05/06 Typhoon short motor (I know, they're the same from 06/06 on) because this was the cheapest and fastest option for me - $2200 delivered. In my opinion. It replaced a BA short motor so I did valve springs (Nizpro) and fitted Kostecki Oil pump gears while I was there. Hoping to rev it a little more and produce that huge torque at higher revs. My every day tune will be sub 300 rwkw with a "race" tune somewhere below 350 rwkw so this fit well. As far as I know, the oil pump is OK. Fuel consumption after doing 1000 odd highway k's over the last 4 days was 10.1 and it doesn't uses oil. The symptoms never happen on cold start and I rarely do the start-move-stop thing. When it does happen, the motor had reached temp. It has occured with different brand oils incluidng 10/40 and 15/40 grades. I am currently using a second lot of oils since fitting the donk 4 weeks ago. At 1000k I fitted a new filter an Castrol 15/40 GTX 3 (mineral oil). At 5000 I will begin to use a synthetic. The fuel pump bleed back valve or fuel pressure regulator sounds like it fits the bill as far as the starting issue. It seems to want to start but is either starving or flooding. I would say it sounds more like it's flooding than starving for fuel. The problem has been there with both short motors. The stock BA and stock Typhoon. I'll get it checked.

Hey All. Had the new bottom end in for 2600KM now and its sweet. Even though it's a stocky with no mods or tunes at all, it seems to pull harder, especially from 4k. Getting on topic. I've had this problem since I bought the car where at seemingly random times it wont start easily. It's like when your old carby motor floods and seems to want to start but chugs and splatters for a bit then fires up in a rougher than usual manner. When this occurs, the procedure I usually follow is not to hold the starter on for more than a few seconds on subsequent attempts. If it doesn't start, I let it rest for a few seconds and then go again. It mostly starts on the 2nd attempt. The odd thing is that during the rest period, if I leave it for over 5 seconds, the oil pressure warning flashes and beeps 4 times with the motor not running. Has anyone seen or heard of this behaviour?

An excellent suggestion. The problem is I can't decide between 3 styles. Though the Speedy Envy MKIII are just in front for me at the moment. The other factor that will inevitably narrow the field is the fact that I want 275's on the bum. An automobile is one thing I like a fat back end on.

8 runs down the quarter is hardly a going to test a strong box. That adds up to 2.4kms at full throttle with a little bit extra for burnouts. Less than what a lot of people would do in a week I would've thought? A box can feel as strong as the day it was put in until the second it breaks. So what exactly does the "plenty" entail to make them stronger? From what I've heard, there's not much you can do apart from kevlar bands, a coupla extra clutches, valve body mod, AU planetries and edit. They're just not made to handle 700+ nm of torque for too long, even with those mods. I reckon a 3 speed C9 or similar with a gear vendors over/under drive (giving you 6 speeds including one overdrive) would be the go. 8k ought to do it!

Yeah if they're "cheap" enough, I'd consider them. What sizes are they as I really would like the 245/275 combo. Also, what tyres and how much tread. Oh yeah one more thing, how much!? PM if you are getting rid of them.

A friend of mine has the BMW X5 with the M5 motor etc. For a big beast, it moves. The transmission is unbelieveable. Smooth and smart. Brake hard from a high speed and it blips the throttle as it down shifts at around 3500 rpm from memory. Very manual like...would be a real nice addition to any car.

I went to a wheel joint yesterday and they had a No 3 in gold in stock so we sat it up against the car - wasn't that taken by it but would love to see at least one side of the car with them on it? As you requested... So many choices...

'tis ye olde phoon rim!

Hey All, I'm looking at getting wheels fairly soon. I've narrowed it down to the following after photochopping more than 20 different rims onto my car. What do you guys think? You might pick up on the fact that I'm leaning towards one of the first three. But I'd love to see them on an actual car in the same or similarly dark colour as my car first. Any pics would be appreciated. I thinking 19's with 8.5/245/35s front and 9.5/275/30 rear. Has anyone got a wheel that size on the rear? What's the clearance like? Did you need to roll the guards? Cheers, Steph.