straughsberry

There's a thread on how to fix the gear. One of mine snapped and we drilled straight down the guts, inserted a long screw with a good adhesive and I haven't had a problem for 6 months.

Project 2000 rwkw.

HTTP 404 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Does this refer to you putting your foot down (a request for power) but the Dunmnydore responds with a "404 Resource Not Found" error?

I'll second that warning. Thief, rip-off, conman and lazy fat bastard are a few words that accurately describe him, his attitude and the quality of his work. You've been warned... Chris and Theo will do things right. Top blokes who have always had time to talk things through and offer some advice on their own time.

It's not over till the fat lady sings. As far as I can see, the journey is just beginning. The fat lady hasn't even got out of bed yet. Personal preferences aside, how can I make a call on on the end result when the race is still being run? And at the end of the day, if I don't like the thread or the way people go about doing things, I have the option of shutting up, ignoring it and reading about something I enjoy. I encourage those who aren't enjoying this thread to exercise your right to ignore it and leave it to those who are enjoying it. Thanks for sharing. Live long and prosper.

With an oil cooled turbo, normal isn't normal. Oil cops a pounding because it cools the turbo and is subjected to a lot more heat. I think it's wise to change oil and filter regularly. Every 5000km seems to keep the oil fresh for everyday use. If I could afford it and could be bothered, I'd be going even more regularly. Especially if it saw regular dragging or racing. Plugs would depend on what type is used I think. I use copper v-grooves and these need changing more regularly. Fuel filters seem to last quite a long time. I've changed mine once in 60,000kms.

What do you mean by "decent"?

Look after it and it will last longer than if you don't. Oil every 5000 km's, warm up/cool down before/after punching it. 369rwkw on a new F6 short for 60,000km. Car has 116,000km on it now so the head is that old.

What do you reckon that does a 60 in? Love the 3rd stage. I'd imagine something similar would occur hitting boost on a 90+mm turb.

I have a lowly 500 odd horsepowers at the rears in my auto daily, 2700 rpm converter and 1st gear is almost useless until you get to 5000 rpm. But breaking loose in 3rd (in a straight line) aint gonna happen. I couldn't imagine trying to put that much power to the ground let alone run a time with it. And in a manual. Forgedaboudit. Crazy stuff indeed Spiro and team. You guys will get there and I'm guessing beyond there as well. Thanks for some very interesting motoring indeed

I put in a claim for some minor repairs when I was with the RACV. I had all of my mods listed. When the assessor came to do his thing, he noticed the Nizpro I/C. It wasn't a problem, but he noticed the difference between it and the stocker. I'm now with Shannons and have a list of about 20 mods which are all covered under the policy. And because of the mods, I negotiated an extra 5k agreed value. Everything that isn't stock, I've listed. F6 short, trans rebuild, fuel pump, injectors I/C, modded turbo, brakes, suspension, rims, stereo (brands of amps and drivers) etc etc. At the end of the day, If you are concerned about legalities/insurance but want to have the mods, you can them engineered.

Yes they are different. The blue calliper is the PBR C6 calliper and they are widely regarded as the best bang for buck brake upgrades for the b series. You can purchase the callipers on their own and get your own rotors to suite. The only problem is the brake hose bracket is different and is not available for purchase on it's own except from Ford. Ford retails the bracket at around $55 where as the standard bracket is less than $10.

Not a bad baseline. Room for improvement though.

If I had those toys sitting around, I'd be sitting down to pee as well. And while your're down there, it would certainly be better than reading the latest RACV Mag whilst waiting to expand Telstra's bandwidth. The level and quality of build, work and parts here is da' shizzle fo' shizzle. And whilst patience is certainly required on these "builds", the time in which they're taking is boggling Kudos to all involved.

Facing subs toward the front will most likely reduce the amount of bass but experiment. Sealed enclosures are really about SQ and are not the best design for bass volume. A ported box will product a lot more bass and 10 inch drivers do not play as low as a 12 or 15. You can't just put holes in your cabinet. The internal volume of sealed enclosures is more than ported designs and there is maths involved as to port shape and location. If you don't want to change your box type or driver size, holes in the rear parcel shelf will allow more bass to travel into the cabin. How have you got your polarity set on the sub box? Usually, running it out of phase will produce more bass. Where have you got it crossed over? How much power are you running into it?

Don't you mean welcome to the force!? As the thread title states, he's come from the dark side. You know, where they found the problem and circled it. :buttrock:

Cheers broo.

Now that beats Steve Austin for cool any day.

That sized exhaust set-up will flow over 400rwkw. As to back pressure, that can be tweaked by a different cat. An e85 set-up would be nice as well as far as making over 400rwkw. XForce cats have had problems and fitment is an issue, as with any off-the-shelf exhaust. My XForce split dump and 3.5inch set-up needed some tweaking to get it right. A crow bar, drill and grinder was needed to get it to fit nicely. But it worked nice. No bangs and good consistent power, until the cat collapsed recently. It ended up sitting in the rear muffler where it managed to cause a little extra back pressure I heard it get blown from it's casing and lodge in the rear muffler one night whilst giving it a little throttle. I haven't seen a Tunehouse exhaust in the flesh but the word on the street (sesame) is dey is da shizzle. Cookie monster told me so. That's where something like the Tunehouse setup would be better I'd say. Fitment, flow and quality.

Awesome cars. Nice shots Adam. Very nice.

Sounds awesome. Maybe people are waiting to see how they go in the long run

Until you accelerate a bit and start sucking in pigeons and small children. That might give it away...

Cardio is certainly not the only way to loose weight around your gut. Actually, the exercise has nothing to do with where you loose weight. Wherever your body looses weight from is where you'll loose weight. Basically it comes down to the energy consumed versus energy expended.

I got a truck turbo. Heard about these billet units. Meant to be rippa

Hey Smicky, I'm not a PT but I've been training for over 5 years now. I was a fatty-fat-fat and decided to do something about it. I lost 25kg of lard and put on about 7kg in lean muscle in the first 2 years. BF % went from about 30% to 11% and I maintained it. Then about a year or so ago, I decided to lean up a little more as I wanted to get into single- digit BF%. In 3 months I lost about 4 kg and am now at about 8% BF. I pretty much did this on my own. Google was my friend as I researched and applied. I used a PT for 5 sessions right at the start just to get the correct technique for free-weights exercises. I think the most important thing you need to get on top of is nutrition. If you haven't got that in place, you can make little to no progress and reduce the effectiveness of your time in the gym. Eventually, it leads many to drop the ball as their results are not what they expected and they get disheartened. What are yo trying to achieve exactly? Get rid of fat? 'Bulk up' and get rid of some fat? What worked for me is to eat very 'clean' most days of the week (5 or 6) and splurge once or twice a week. For clean days, I stay away from red meats as while they are high in protein, they can be quite high in fat. Especially cuts like Scotch Fillet. So no bread, pasta, sugar etc on clean days as well. I mostly eat chicken breast, fish & seafood for meats, veggies and salad for carbs and things like raw almonds for good fats. Breaky cereals can have a fair wack of sugar in them so watch them. Oats are great maybe with a little honey, or some almonds or even a little fruit. Again, no toast in the morn on clean days. Power walking and H.I.I.T are both great for burning fat while not allowing your body to turn catabolic. When you put high energy demand on your body, it will eventually begin to use the more abundant energy stored in muscle tissue. This reduces your muscle mass and the 'engine' which burns the calories in the first place. I would avoid running as there is no need unless you are training for an event. You can see this in effect with AFL players. The guys who run a lot will start the year noticeably bulkier than what they finish the year. If you want to gain muscle, you need to get enough daily protein for your mass. A rough estimate is 3 grams of protein per kilo of body weight per day. Most meats and seafood give you about 20% protein. So a 500gm chicken breast will give you about 100 grams of protein. You can look up nutritional info of any foods online. And when you hit the gym, just work hard at whatever you do. Hope there's some useful info there. If not, too bad Cheers, Steph.