straughsberry

A generic is ok to use IF you've had it on a dyno to make sure it safe. Otherwise, you're asking for trouble. Get it looked at by a reputable shop. Check out one of the forum sponsors in your area.

Yeah, it' not too hard to do is it mate In reality, I'm just guessing as to boost levels V power levels at rear wheels. The proof is in the pudding and I'm hungry. Cheers.

Cheers m8. Car is based in the Northern burbs. 500rwkw would be very nice indeed. The build completion date was last year but boys being boys, the bar keeps being risen. It doesn't help having the likes of Spiko and Bev to spur things on.

Hopefully Trav. Efficiency is what we're hoping to gain by these "little" tweaks. And at the end of the day, it should mean a little extra power for the same boost. That and I like to tweak So instead of mid-high 600rwkw, I'm hoping we can get well into the 700's through the auto and decent converter at around 35psi. If it works, we'll either look like semi-geniuses or I'll look like a complete twat. It was designed with peak power in mind. I liked the idea of removable runners so we can tweak them too. I haven't heard of it used on anything of this magnitude but that's not to say it hasn't.

2.5 years with well over 300rwkw and most of it with 370rwkw. When it did go, just a freshen up of a clutch or two and some bearings. 6 more months and going strong. The only problem for me with a non-overdrive box is fuel economy. There are other options too. When my big-banger eventually gets on the road, it will be running a 4l65.

Let me assure everyone it is coming along. I (and others) have invested a lot of time and money into this build and have no plans to abandon it. We are still waiting for some custom bits and pieces to be finished off for the head to be completed. It's part of a build like this. Cheers fellas.

For me, reducing the pressure of the s5 solenoid by turning it down. I think the combination of increased line pressure in the tune and s5 was causing it to take off in second. Slight turn down of the S5 pretty much fixed it for me. My box shifts firmer in tippy than in D as line pressures in tune are higher in tippy. So when I'm playing, I only play in tippy.

Yeah, 60's will be ample for 350rwkw. They will flow well over 400rwkw on 98 @ 4 bar.

Be careful, they might be Chinese copies! But seriously, they are not copies. Do you plan on running e85 at any stage? Might need 80's. Even better, get some flow matched Bosch EV14 1000cc jobs. They idle wonderfully and have plenty of head room for e85/bigger turbo/more power. Did I mention that I have a set for sale

+1 for high line pressures. I had the same problem after getting my BTR built. Valve body was not modified. Line pressures in the tune had been modified for the stock box and with the new box, line pressures were increased. It began to take off in second 30%-40% of the time. We turned down line pressures in the box until it went away. On the very odd occasion, it will still take off in second.

What's a BOV? I like making mine cough at 6000 rpm and 17psi when I back off. Makes the people on the curb wish they had one too

If it's just clutches/bands, it won't cost much at all but you'll basically be back to stock. Getting shift pressures turned up in the tune and box will give you more longevity but it will go again at some point. My stock auto lasted for about 6 months with between 240 and 350 rwkw. Once the wick was turned up to 350, it died after a couple of months. Got a rebuild from RVO and it went over 2 years until I killed a band at 6k in 3rd. Went in for a freshen up (new bands and bearings) and it's been going for another 3 months without any problems. If you spend the dosh now on a "full" rebuild, you could save yourself $1000 down the road when you do eventually smash it proper.

Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, drop the cat???

Do it!

Dave I've got 1% flow matched Bosch 1000cc EV14's (@ 3 bar) I was going to use for my project but since going to E85 will be using 2000's. PM me if you're interested.

Crazy stuff indeed. I hope everyone stays safe.

Yes, increased line pressures. But it had other work done like AU plans, cryo treating, torringtons, bushes etc.

MIne was done by RVO in Dandenong.

While this mod might give longevity under higher power levels, I think you can have the best of both worlds. My trans has had the line pressures turned up both in the tune and via the trans adjustment. We turned it up via trans adjustment until it was taking off in 2nd (too high line pressure) then backed it off a tad. It shifts very firm. The biggest advantage I can see by utilising both the tune and adjustment on trans for line pressures is that via tune in auto mode you can back off line pressures for softer shifts and in tippy, the full wack is available. I never hammer my car unless I'm dictating the shifting. It held 370rwkw for 2.5 years before having to do a freshen up by changing some clutches and we threw in some new torringtons while we were there. Sweet as bro.

Hmmm. Accidentally fill up with diesel?

What kind of misfire is it? Does it sound like 1 cylinder dropping out or multiple cylinders dropping out? Over the last 3 years and 70,000km I've had 4 "sets" of coils fail but never had a plug fail.

If you intend on using 400+ mj of spark energy, you may need it.

In case anyone is confused, an engine build date of post 06/06 has the stronger rods, not the car build date. But as has been suggested, get the engine number to Ford and they'll let you know if you have the single tooth pick or double toothpick rods.

6k for unbreakable 4 speed? Never heard of one of those. Sounds like someone is in the deepest portion of a REM cycle.

1. Do not bypass the radiator cooler (get an after market radiator if your worried about the stock unit). 2. Get yourself a correctly thermostated oil cooler.