straughsberry

Yeah had a chat to Franky. He's fairly happy about his 340rwkw. I've got new tyres on order as we speak as mine are a bit buggered. I already decided that if it's wet, I'll be staying home. A bit buggered they are. Still good in the dry though. The BOM 512km radar shows lots of rain still around. There should be some clear patches here and there but it will be a wet one I think.

Breaking down means an obvious miss in the igniting of the fuel so you get farting, popping and an obviously changed exhaust note with massive loss of power. I describe a phenomenon I've experience as "going soft" where there is no ignition break down, no popping or farting in the exhaust note but there is a sight power loss (seat of the pants after new coils are fitted, also experienced by others), a richer exhaust smell and even a "fluffier" exhaust/engine/igntion/somefriggenthingsomewhere type feeling. Remember, I only noticed that my original ford coils had gone "soft" after a retune when fitting new coil packs. My car was running relatively high boost for power and both my tuner and I couldn't explain it. 18psi to make 350rwkw. I changed coil packs, fitted a looser (2700rpm) converter and came out with 370rwkw on 1 psi less boost. Now I'm not attributing ALL of that extra power to just the coil packs. I'm not even saying that the extra number of 20(kw) was all real extra power. But there was certainly more grunt going to those rear tyres. And after what I've now experienced with other coil packs going soft, I am sure at least some of the extra power came from fresh coil packs. It is possible that I'm looking for evidence of an idea I have already made fact in my mind. But maybe I'm not. AFAIK, none of them were Denso. At least they weren't branded as Denso. The sets I tested are: Set from China I brought in to test (the best of the lot lasted 6 months, still dont break down, just gone soft) Set of ebay genuines (which I believe are fake, lasted 3 months, dont break down) Set of Borgg (lasetd 2 odd weeks, breaks down) Set of ebay $124 jobs (lasted 2 odd weeks, breaks down) Currently running genuine Fords and working very well.

Hmm. No. I wonder how they work in conjunction with our ignition systems? have to ground every wire too.

Sidewayz.

I bet the air is thin up there.

Cool. Got it

Yeah the time frame is always tomorrow But seriously the 3 or 4 things we are having to manufacture or modify highly have taken time to complete. Lots of head work. Modified Honda valves should be completed this soon. Solid lifters have just been finished this week. First bell housing cast 2 weeks ago but needs mods so that's a bit off. Head plate had to go back and forth a bit to get right etc etc. Next big thing is cam selection and dummying up motor to get the comp ratio to where we want it. check clearances et6c so we can cut the valves. We are always moving forward, just a little leisurely at times. So what interesting stuff can you share that you've discovered?

Cheers! But wouldn't it be a pisser if this "extra effort" counts for stuff all! I've always been a fiddler

Interesting you say that as this is the path we are going down with my build. A fair bit of porting, primarily on the exhaust side. There is no solid lifter that I know of but we will be trialling some solids that we've had made up. This means when we specify the cam profile, we can open the valves in a lot less degrees of rotation because we can be confident we wont get bleed due to the non-existence of hydraulic lifters. Hope it all works as expected. Fingers crossed! This car looks awesome.

I got mine for USD $7 each but I've been using plain old copper v-groove plugs for ages now. You can gap them down from the .8mmm they come as and they cost about $3 each. You'll need to change them a little more regularly.

I didn't get fluid leaking but I did loose gears. I got a rebuild from RVO Automatics in Dandenong South (Dave) about 18 months ago. It's been holding 370rwkw for 18 odd months and is shifting as firmly and chirping gears the same as it did when it was new. 3k very well spent. Great results and very happy customers are also coming out of Bayswater Automatics in Bayswater. Give them both call mate.

I'd call Brad myself if I was thinking of buying one, but for informative purposes, does anyone know what Atomic do to their pumps?

2 weeks ago coming back from the gym at 12:30am, I had a guy cross the centerline coming the opposite way and our mirrors connected. Window smashed, some dents and scratches. Coupla g's worth and he had no insurance and no witnesses. So my $550 excess will pay for it.

If you never intend to take that system above it's capabilities, which would be well over 400rwkw, then you could save a few hundy. Otherwise, spend the extra money on the Nizpro system now and save some money in the future. The only thing that would be stopping me from getting the Nizpro system is that I haven't heard much feedback about it. Plenty of people have used the XForce systems including myself. There is nothing wrong with them. They last, the cats do not fail early and the welds do not crack. They are thinner and lighter than other exhausts which means they can sound a bit tinnier, especially on startup, but they are also lighter. Yes they can and usually do have fitment issues but none that can't be sorted. That price sounds reasonable.

Don't let them get away with it. Stay on them!

A few years ago I got booked on a country road by a car mounted radar. I was fairly sure I was doing about 118. Definitely under 120. But the officer said I was doing 126. It didn't make a difference to the fine or demerit points lost so I didn't bother taking it anywhere. There are discrepancies in actual and detected speeds.

I don't mind those rims on that colour. But I really think rims that big look a little silly unless it's dumped. Go on, make it scrape, you know you want too...

NP. There are always alternatives. I just think that for 72lb injectors, 700 is fairly step, even though they are meant to be a good injector. BTW, the EV14's are "shorties" so they're 48mm o-ring to o-ring. You'll need to get adapters and they have US-car plugs but you can get tails. No biggy, easily obtainable from the US as well. My 1000cc injectors, flow matched with all adapters only cost about USD$550 from memory. At the current exchange rate, that is a great buy.

It would be overkill but You can get non-milled ones at 55lb. They'd be good for 400rwkw. They are a 6 orifice injector which is supposed to be great for atomisation, economy, response etc. I'm using the 1000cc injectors for my 1000+hp build. Anyone used a Bosch EV14 on any car?

Current List: Dillz Matty macca2042 mntxr BAXR6BOSS (+5-8 other T's, coming from Northern Suburbs) Subjimbo GR8XR6 R-SPEC + NVYDF6 t6xr ronburgundy mad_rx2 red rocket boosted_XR Rlquik MiKa AXR-Jet PSIFPV YPURV4 slamaa F6 Grandad whistler6 Yoshi Mr Turbo PJDXR6t Barnesy Robos F6 Power Jet TUFGSR straughsberry (+EGOXRT +valve bounce) XRDOSE EvilDaifu Jman *Beep* bunna Venom XR Turbo 6L_ETA BOOSTINXR bfturb paulie2256 arm79 acidxr6 henz NFORCD tonyv PJDXR6t + 4 JRFTTF +? dashturbo

You can get 1000cc 6 orrifice milled Bosch EV14's from the US for much less than that. Check out Five-o motorsport.

Speed does kill. Don't you remember that campaign: "Speed Kills - Play It Safe, Drive a Holden"?

It depends on what you're after. For SQ you would NOT fit rear speakers at all, just front splits and a sub-woofer. The subby should be rear firing and hooked up out of phase. If you want to keep rear passengers happy, fit some 5x7's to the rear parcel shelf but I would not run them when you don't have rear passengers. Hook up a manual power switch to turn the rear amp off on demand. If you can be bothered and if you have the time, then a DIY system is the way to go. Choose a tweeter, midbass and crossover from the many available. You will get something much better for a lot less money doing it this way. If you're going to get a component system, I personnally do not like Focal's in general. Go have a listen to some Morel Elate 6's. Very nice sounding and power handling is 200wrms. So big amp and lots of volume from a single set of splits. My 2 cents.

Technically, you are in the wrong - you play, you pay. Having said that, when I merge onto a freeway from an 80km on-ramp, I make sure I'm doing 100 before merging. The merge is much smoother and much less interruptive. So technically, I'm speeding. How bad is it when someone merges at 70kmh or so? And in most situations, if you get booked a genuine 30 meters before a 100kmh zone then there can only be one thing on the locals minds.