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straughsberry

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Everything posted by straughsberry

  1. What's your budget? That is what will dictate which direction to go in. And it is more than likely that you'll want to turn the wick up in the future so I would plan for that. If you just want reliability, I'd grab an F6 or FG short and chuck in some rods on factory pistons. Do your oil pump and valve springs and that will see you have a reliable 400+ rwkw all day long. You will also be able to recover some money from your old block, crank etc.
  2. Chuck on a Bullseye Power S15122 (122mm compressor wheel). If you start at Adelaide and point towards Perth, I reckon by the time you get to Mundrabilla, you'd be making some good power on 98. Does anyone concur?
  3. Upload your pics Trav and I'm sure someone will do it. I've done a few in my time. The quality will often depend on how close the angles of the wheels match the angle of the car.
  4. Glad to hear. You reckon this thing might be causing some cannon-muffler envy amongst our ricer brethren?
  5. Glad you sorted it dude. What coils did you get and what did you have before?
  6. Nice power for boost. Specs?
  7. Have you tried manually shifting and shift a little earlier? You're using octane boost because...
  8. So you're saying that the tag of "1800hp" at this point in time is just that - a tag. I get that But it certainly seems built like it will do the job for my planned 1000+hp. Big bore, large area, decent core, excellent workmanship and on top of all that, very un-weighty. I guess I'll see how it performs when it comes time for tuning in my build.
  9. It's funny how we are all such good goose spotters except when the goose is taking a crap on our shoulder. You could say anyone who acts like this and has kids is a goose. Regardless of whether the kids are in the car or not. Or if you got a missus and do this, your a goose. Heck, we're all geese.
  10. Great effort Spiney and Dynomite. Well done mate. Well done to all the monkeys, I mean tuners.
  11. I've had both the Falken 452 and T1R and there is no comparison. They are 2 different tyres. If you want to hook up, the the T1R wins hands down. They are also VERY quite and while mine are ending their service life, they still barely tram line. They are a very sticky tyre for a radial. They are softer that the 452's so they wont last as long. Very good in the wet. If you like twisty stuff, feel and a little more service life, the 452's are better than the T1R. They are more precise and have a lot more feel than the T1R. They do tend to tram line a fair bit and with less wear. Very good in the wet. I'll be going the T1R's again. BTW, $250 for the 452's sound very cheap. When I was looking for my last set, they were both around the same price. Are you sure that's right?
  12. Bloke, do yourself a favour and grab some Atomic or Crow valve springs. Get the Ovate Alpha III springs with retainers which are made in the US and They actually are a very good spring. These will support anything you can throw at them. Even 800kw for 80,000 km. In my opinion, I'd stay right away from the Nizpro units. There has been a high rate of early failures reported. Nizpro have explained this by stating there was a water damaged batch. They also stated that they pulled a whole lot from the market, but failures continue so it seems like it is a risk.
  13. I have seen data that showed one tube and fin cooler had more of a temp rise than a bar and plate cooler. The B&P had a rise of 12c over a run and the T&F had 22c from memory. The thing to remember is that there's more power being made by the T&F because of substantially less pressure drop over the B&P. I have to agree though - wank wank wank blah blah blah. I'm about to order me one of the Plazmaman 1800 HP jobs. These are a new core with more internal fins so they will cool a little better but still have small amounts of pressure drop. Also, this thing weights under 8kg! For 1800hp worth of cooling, that is very impressive. My Nizpro cooler is around 14kg from memory.
  14. Subscribed...
  15. Nice info. If I wasn't going to be putting in my 600+ rwkw donk in a couple of months, I'd probably go back to my tuner and get this sorted. Thanks for sharing because sharing is caring
  16. I had mine cleaned and flowed recently and I can back this up. Factory spec is +/- 5% so it's a 10% window meaning there can be a 10% difference in flow. One of my injectors was just on that, 10% less flow than most of the rest. After seeing that, I would not get a set of any injectors unless they were flow matched. The Siemens are excellent. I've noticed different tuners tune differently (imagine that!) so I've had tunes in my car where the idle from the Siemens is near factory from one tuner, but other tuners idle quality can be fairly rough. The rough idle does not make a difference to performance or economy. I'd like to see data from the newer Bosch EV14's. 6 orifice and up to 2000cc (milled). And if done correctly, there's nothing wrong with milled injectors. If they are flow matched, you have peace of mind that they have been done correctly. So I wouldn't discount flow matched milled injectors. Plenty of big performance engines use them.
  17. Wow Spiro. Your new project sounds absolutely ridonkulous! Can't wait to hear and see more on this. My project kind of sounds part way between the "average" 600+rwkw project and your new "king of projects" at 1000+ rwkw. The vast majority of people I've spoken to about the path/s I want to go down have had the attitude "why not let the turbo do all the work?". But I reckon if we can gain efficiency, lower cylinder pressures, and a more accurate and smooth engine, we may just gain a few psi and a nice amount of HP all at lower boost levels and less stress on components. That way, I hope to push well into the 700's (rwkw) without too much of a sweat So we chose to go solid lifters, aggressive cam, extensive head work, bigger head studs, and a little extra machine work etc. The only thing I am a little worried about at this stage is the crank. I plan on spinning it to 7500 and I chose not to go down the billet crank setup due to the bang-for buck factor ( 7+ grand for a full billet crank and caps setup). What have/are you doing in that department? Lately, I've also toyed with the idea of a dry sump but haven't taken that past the thought stage. What can you say about it?
  18. Awesome. Well done to all. Keep it safe.
  19. look up the term "brake boosting"
  20. Got mine today. Thanks mate.
  21. You'll be a bit sore for a few days, for sure. Rest up fella.
  22. Yeah it's stuffed! Leaking oil and losing gears, time to get it into a trans shop for a look see me thinks.
  23. Come to Broady. You'll increase your chances 10 fold I've seen then around on a few occasions. The film crew cruise around in a black unmarked Crappadore.
  24. I don't know about the FG coils. Haven't looked at them. Yeah I did try the Weapon-X coils. At my power level, they didn't seem to make a difference.
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