straughsberry

Define "get" But seriously, If I get a camera, I'd probably do it myself - probably. I needa lacky, I mean camera person to do it. Some one with some skill and a camera and some editing software and some time. So you got the time J, how about the skill? Got any vids you can show me?

What, no beers and burgers even?

Hey All, As you may or may not know, I've spent the last 10 months on a fairly serious daily-driver build. In the next couple of months, I'll be reaching some milestones such as engine assembly, fitting engine and ancillary systems into car, doing the trans conversion and finally, the various tuning sessions. I'm looking for someone who has a video camera and is able to come along and record these events. So if you are into filming and maybe a little bit of editing, please let me know if you are interested. Burgers and beer will be on the house Cheers, Steph.

I've done some, but I really want to capture the business end of the build. I think I'll start a thread to see if anyone is interested.

Tell me about it mannnnnnn. Why do people and businesses have holidays? Don't they know I have a project to complete? All good Spiko. Next couple of weeks should see some positive movement. And on a side note, anyone in VIC interested in perhaps coming along and filming some of the build/tuning etc? HD would be nice too It's worth a beer and a burger or two!

Awesome. Looking forward to see how you go Spiko. All the best mate!

I think you missed the point of what I said. The point was that even without a cooler, (which we all know keep temps down and can increase the lifespan of your auto due to it's heat reducing function) my trans has lasted 18+months with 370rwkw and it still feels snappy as bro. So with a cooler, it is more than likely some time would be added to it's lifepsan. My other point was that the longetvity and reliability I am current enjoying has to do what I think is build quality. Capiche! Looking back at what I said, I don't see where I intimated that the the build of the auto has something to do with needing a trans cooler. And by it's very name "trans cooler" I'd say it would be fairly easy to determine that the need for a trans cooler is dictated by the fact that you need to cool your trans So if your trans temps are getting too hot too often, you probably should get one.

I'll back that up. We tried a 3500 and it was way too loose for the factory turbo running 370rwkw. Power went backwards as well as driveability and economy. It would flash to about 4200rpm in 3rd from memory. Not a good combo.

That's it Trav. It's theory for the moment. Lets see how it pans out though. I'm hangin'! And correction on the largest A/R. It's 1.25.

OK. I'll make a call 2 moz if they're open and see what can be organised.

Yes retains factory lockup function. It definitely will launch harder. Even without stalling it up as it will flash to 3000+rpm and allow the turbo to spool up nicely. It really is a great match for a factory style setup. Not too big, not too small.

I think the vanilla 380 is rated to about 40psi. With the upgraded wheel, 360 degree thrust bearing and race cover, we can push a lot higher so 50psi wouldn't be out of the question for this turbo. It's rated to 1350rwhp (yank rwhp) so probably 1200rwhp on Aussie dyno's. That would be with the 1.32 A/R wheel. I've initially opted for a 1.0 A/R. If it's a bit small, a 1.1 A/R is next. Anyway, in it's current configuration, I don't see it couldn't make 1250 crank hp on the Barra.

Yes, it was

So far, so smooth Trav. But there's every chance that March will turn into May. You can't rush a good thing - that's what I keep telling myself I am seriously hanging to see how this thing tunes up. 35psi is a number I have in my head as far as max boost. But if all looks well as we push, we'll go beyond that. Hopefully we don't make an unintentional dry-sump system in the process.

Bad fuel is always a possibility. That's why a good tuner will first make the power and then pull a couple of degrees for a safety margin. I haven't noticed a difference with any brand of 98 fuel. Using 100 on the odd occassion when I lived in Bonbeach, it did seem to be a bit crisper.

I might have a set from my old trans. There was nothing wrong with my gear set, the clutches and bands just wore out so I rebuilt the box. I actually bought an ebay trans as a donor so I have spare internals. Let me call my trans guy 2moz.

If you keep it to around 2800rpm you'll barely notice the difference in driveability. It will launch better and allow the turbo to come on boost in the gears a little quicker. You'll still be able to tow and cruise with barely a difference. Fuel economy isn't an issue either. I got a modified and upgraded factory converter from TCI in NSW. Still going strong after about 16 months and 35,000 odd kilometers. Best part was the price. $450 from memory. I might be able to get one a little cheaper. BTW, I don't run a trans cooler with 370rwkw and I haven't had a single sign of a problem from the auto in 18 months+. But I'd put that down to RVO's care in building the things. Trust me, you want a converter

If you've relieved back pressure, you should be making a little more power thanks to a little more boost.

Couple of discussions going on at the moment Spiko but most businesses are still closed at this time. Had a chat today with Geoff from Snort about making an intake for the beast. The turbo has a 5.5 inlet and Geoff's idea is to use 6 inch pipe over a silicon sleeve. Sounds like a plan but that's a huge piece of pipe! Also discussed routing hot side piping for the job. Chatted with Frank from Headspec yesterday about the lifters, cam, vernier gears (getting rid of the VCT) and valves. The custom solids need some further tweaking to make them work, cam grind will most likely be an Atomic spec as wel as vernier gears to get rid of the VCT. Valves just need to be cut once we get the cam and the head will just about be ready. Once my engine builder/tuner opens up again, the block has to go back for machining for the billet main caps. Once Dellow re-opens, I'll get the bellhousing shipped so we'll probably start the trans conversion in the next 3 or 4 weeks. Getting there mate. The new year will be a good opportunity to get right into it and hopefully see the motor in the car by end of March and with serious tuning starting a couple of weeks after that. I'm guessing I'll put 1000km on the clock fairly quickly. Can't wait!

Bad luck mate. But I have to concur, you'll most likely have bore and piston damage. Time to strip and quote unfortunately. I've sent you a pm regarding help in that area

They're limited to 18000 rpm. But my point is that if 800hp from 2.4 litres N/A is achievable (albeit at the pinnacle of engine development), why does 700hp from 4.0 litres N/A sound unachievable?

Sounds too "thick" to be an exhaust leak and it I think those compression figures tell the story. When I bent a rod, and I mean bent, it took a chunk out of the block at the bottom of the bore where the rod was giving the block a hip-and-shoulder. The engine still ran but it was seriously sick as you'd imagine. Sorry to hear mate. If you need pistons and/or rods and you're thinking Mahle and Argo let me know. I've got some at a very good price. Especially the pistons. I won't mention a price here but PM me and I'll let you know.

Definitely is an N/A 6! So how about a Forumla 1 engine that has a 2.4 litre capacity and makes 800hp?

what w/g's are you running?

Any surge tank will go somewhat towards eliminating surge! Personally, I want to build (or have get built!) a removable 15-20 litre tank which will utilise the spare wheel assembly for fastening and will be removable. Along side that, there will be a similar removable NO2 bottle (did someone say cough, sneaky pete, cough cough). Some fab will have to be done but I know some guys who can handle that Moving right along, I've heard nothing but good things about the Process West unit. We all know that Kev's stuff is very well made indeed.