straughsberry

Hey Trav. Most places just opened back up this week but I've made a few calls and things are starting to move gain. I'm heading to Eden this Sat for a short break, then when I come back, we'll get right into it. Hangin!

NP mate!

I can do Mahle Powerpak pistons and Argo conrods delivered for not much more than that. I got a few extra sets to get a discount on mine for my ensuing build PM for details!

If it were me, I'd seriously consider an Atomic 698kw motor for a daily driver duties. Great gear and very well priced. Call Brad and have a chat.

Make sure the cam angle sensors are plugged in correctly and the wires are in good order. They are located at the very rear of the head right near the firewall. Especially the one on the exhaust side as it deteriorates because of heat. Unplug one at a time and go for a drive. It there's no difference, there's ya problem!

The HP ratings in the US usually refers to rear wheel HP dont they? There's also a difference in torque capability between the different transmissions. The 65 has 5 pinion planetaries compared to 4 in the 60. Also, one thing I notice is a lot of the US upgrades use "The Beast" sun gear shell. My trans builder tells me that it is too heavy and can cause premature wear issues. The TH400 and 4l80 is also more parasitic than the 350/60/65. Anyway, I'll be attempting to put around 850hp through a built 4l65e. We'll see how it handles it...

I run the DBA4000's under a PBR C6 calliper. I'm just about to fit a new front set. Very good rotor for daily duties. I use the PBR performance pad which is very metallic and I would call them aggressive. They chewed my rotors in 2 pad changes so I got 1 machining out of them. The PBR performance pads for the C6 calliper do not have the same compound as other PBR pads.

Interesting. I am using a 4l65e in my build for the reason that it has OD and can handle about 850hp. I looked into the GVOD and did a fair bit of research on it. From memory, the base model is rated to 1250hp with a 2000hp version available. The only thing that put me off is the poor integration when it comes to shifting. Say you start with the trans in 1st then select 2nd when necessary. All good as you've made a single shift or selection. Next you select 2nd over using the GVOD switch. Still all good as you've made another single selection. But if you now want to select 3rd or 2nd, you have to make 2 selections or changes. You have to disengage the GVOD as well as shift the stick on the box. There are timing issues when doing that and you end up getting a double shift effect. That steered me away from a GVOD setup in a daily driver. There were some youtube vids which showed what I'm talking about. You could use a PG and only use the GVOD as an OD for the highway (2nd over). But spending 3+k for just for an OD is not worth it in my book.

You planted that in the garden before you took the vid and it's a master-chip. C'mon, own up. It's a planted master-chip isn't it.

Good to hear you sorted it out. FYI, you can order those coils packaged anyway you want

That's another story. I'm sceptical that the ebay Ford genuine coils are actually Ford genuine coils. I know what the dealer buy price is on these and it's more than what they are being sold for on ebay. So how are they selling them for a fair bit less than the dealer buy price?

Sorry, but that's not necessarily true. It seems to be a bit hit and miss with after market units. I've used 2 sets (Borgg and another set selling for $124) and they were both rubbish. The Borggs lasted days until they totally failed and began to misfire. The $124 dollar jobs lasted a couple of weeks and they did the same. Other's have reported similar issues while some have had no problems. The point? Buy at your own risk! Don't forget that even though genuine Ford units are a bit exy, they come with a 2 year warranty.

True dat. When you see an accident in the flesh, or images of tragedies such as this, it makes you think of the possible consequences when taking risks. A very sad outcome for the families and friends.

ahahahaha bwahahahahahaha

It's on my calendar! Heading to Eden that afternoon. Will have to check back here to see results. Good luck Spiro.

It's true! You don't "need" to do it. But when it goes pop, you'll probably wished you had. At 400rwkw, you're most likely living on borrowed time.

I'm failry sure the KPM units are Carrillo. And I have to say, that's just a tad exxy. For my 1000+ HP build, I'm using Argo conrods. They are rated to 1500hp and are a tough unit. If you want a set, let me know as I have a couple of sets extra I bought to get a discount on my own. I won't mention a price here but they'll be cheaper than what Argo is selling them for. I just want to get rid of them! So PM me if you're interested. BTW, I've also got som Mahle Powerpak pistons - same scenario!

Wow. Hopefully that block doesn't get aircon installed anytime soon.

Massif effort indeedy!

I think the important constant here is WOT and not TIME. We need to see a trend. If we see a trend, we can then say one item has "this" characteristic, and the other item has "that" characteristic. Toady, how many of these graphs have you got/recorded? Do they show a trend?

Go hard champ!

The converter is basically a fluid coupling between the engine and transmission. It creates a load on the engine. When the stall speed is increased (by fin angle as I understand it), more revs are required before forward drive is achieved. The stall speed typically refers to the RPM required to start the drive wheels turning with the brake on. Remember though that when the brake is not on there is less load, so you need more rpm to get drive. A 2800rpm converter may flash to 3200 or more rpm depending on the load and gear you're in. You basically want to match the stall speed to your engines characteristics in order to take advantage of it's power band. If your donk doesn't start making good boost until 4000rpm, a suitable matched converter will allow the revs to rise to near 4000rpm, allowing your engine to come on full boost a lot quicker. I think I've covered the basics in laymen's terms With the standard turbo on our cars, getting near 3000rpm is what most people would consider ideal as the turbo will produce good boost by then and not be so loose as to rob power. Getting a converter that's too "loose" will start robbing you of power and as Lee (dalts) has reported, make you go backwards in terms of MPH and ET.

Hey Leo. Yep, Seven Hills is their location. And I don't think most businesses would warranty a product in the situation you describe unfortunately. They don't build boxes AFAIK. For your own pieve of mind, I think it would be better to give me a yell when it comes time to needing a converter. I'm sure I can get a better than retail price for you. When you buy one, I'm sure you could pick it up if that's more convenient.

I haven't ran with this converter. But I'd say it would definitely be an improvement over stock. After fitting this converter and new coilpacks, I didn't loose any power. In fact, I picked up 20 odd rwkw after a retune with the new coilpacks and this converter. Want to be a guinea-pig!?

No worries mate. Have fun driving like a grandma For those interested in one of these converters they normally retail for $495. If we can get 5, the price will be $395. plus about $20 for delivery. Also, there is usually a $100 core charge but I've worked out a deal so you will not have pay a core charge and in fact, you will not have to send your old converter back at all. If we get below 5, they will be $445. So how about a show of hands. If 2 or 3 people are interested, I'll start a group buy and if it goes through, I'll run it for 2 weeks with payments to be made within a week after that. The converter's rated stall is 2500-3000rpm with most being around that 2700rpm mark. Now as we all know, it can be a pain trying to get a converter right because of differences in tunes. The good news is you will be able to send your converter back if it's outside of the rated stall speed range and try another one. Postage back to Torque Converter Industries will have to be paid by you though. And the converter will come with a 12 month warranty. Cheers, Steph.