straughsberry

ahahaha cool!

Nice! Will you be trialling the unit?

Spiko: Yes, I've thought about the rear end Seriously, too much. Tailshaft will be a custom job to suit the 4l65e conversion. Probably a chrome moly unit. CV's and half-shafts will just be selected from what' available. As far as diff housing strength, I have some ideas which I've mentioned before, about a twin bush setup and strengthening the cradle. I still think it's a step forward and would do nicely for people wanting to run 9's in autos. I have spoken to a couple of people about a custom cast hat. No problems there. But the issue for me is fabricating a master or prototype. I neither have the skills nor time to do that sort of work ATM. mic: The Atomic housing is what I've got in mind, but I'm still a little concerned about longevity making 1000+HP. I suppose it depends on how often it makes that kind of power. tray_182005: I wish! ETA? Maybe April!

A little bit Spiko. Sent a valve spring and retainer to Ferrea to sus out options for a valve, spring, retainer and keeper option. Waiting for that to arrive. Should get there soon. I've sent the bottom end back to machine shop to have work done for Gas Motorsports main caps and have the Atomic girdle, mains caps, studs, side bolts and sump test fitted. Last I heard was it all went together NP but the sump is touching in the odd spot. Clearance will be made to get it on but that is not a peoblem I'm told. The sump will not have to be modified. Now I'm thinking about how the oil pump is going to cope spinning to 7500rpm so I'm looking into possibilities. The only one I've come up with so far is a dry sump setup but that is a little out of budget! I'll get a little more info and we might need to cap rpm a little lower but I'm really not sure what a modified stock pump is capable of or what I need to do ATM. The build continues!

If it were me, I'd answer it by seriously contemplating the potential consequences. I'd try and put myself in the shoes of the various people who are and could be affected by his behaviour, including himself. That should tell you what to do. Good luck.

Yes it's cold out today!

I couldn't agree with you more Spiko. In a nutshell, we create our own reality and our own future. But to create that future, we need to BE the person we need in that future TODAY. Otherwise, tomorrow will never come. What will come is the past instead. My 2.5 cents Now lets make some HP!

Hehe. I'm doing mine on equity mate! Here's Pythagoras's theory of horse power: equity X being single + too much testosterone / mid-life crisis = too much power cheers fellas

From what I can tell, true sponsorship only exists for a very few in Australia. What you will find is when a businesses or individuals are interested in a project, they may donate their time and resources instead of cash at a project. And time and resources can sometimes be much more valuable than cash. At the end of the day, the project owner is usually the person handing out the large majority of the folding stuff.

I've been under a few times myself. The worst reaction I experienced was after a 5 hour op. I couldn't stop throwing up yellow bile. I remember coming in and out of consciousness on the way up from recovery. I chucked up in recovery, in the lift and back in my bed a few times. General anaesthetic is quite harsh on the body. I'm sure I've read that it can take months for the body to fully recover from it although I don't know how true that actually is. Glad to hear you're feeling better.

Sounds like a few ladies I've known.

Rev limit will be around 7500rpm with power coming on at around 4800rpm using an 80mm turbo. So 3200 is very conservative. Hoping to pick up 500 or so rpm by stalling up in second. At the moment, this is all theory for me!

Looking at 3200 or so. Keep it tight for the street. Will see a little more by stalling it up in 2nd. In the end, how the tune and setup pans out will dictate the stall. Project exrsik is a dictatorship

As you mention, the 700r4 is basically a non-electronic 4 speed TH350. After the 700r4 came the 4l60 and 4l65e. The newer 60 and 65's have detachable bell housings and other improvements. There are a lot of interchangeable parts between all of these boxes and I'd dare say a built 700r4 is much like a built 60/65 except it is shifted non-electronically. The good thing about the 60/65 is you don't have to use a manual valve-body to shift manually so you can have both manual and auto shifting available. In manual mode, you can spool the turbo up in second then wack it into first as you take off. That kind of setup is more suited to a daily driver and is the way I am going

Depends what you call awesome! While a TH400 can be build very strong, it is more parasitic than the BTR. And for the great majority of people making 300-400rwkw in our cars, it will probably make you go backwards when compared with the BTR. And while the GVOD doubles your available ratios and will handle 1250hp in it's basic form, there's a quirk when you have to shift out of overdrive and shift your auto up or down at the same time. You have to switch the OD out and shift the box at the same time. There is no way to time the 2 shifts so you get a double shift quirk happening. That is what put me off a Powerglide/GVOD combo. Yes a BTR can be built to handle that power. Having a well built box is a great part of it but getting the shift strategies right via the tune is also very important. C series, TH400, TH350 and Powerglide boxes are all "old school" and do not have an overdrive. So while they all can be built to handle a fair bit more power then the BTR (TH400 and Poweglides well over 2500hp), your fuel economy will suffer because you'll only have a 1:1 ratio in 3rd as well as some of these boxes being parasitic. Expect about 3000rpm at 100 km/h. I know of a story where a 4l80e (a newer 4 speed electronic shifting version of the TH400) was swapped out for a 4l65e (a newer 4 speed electronic shifting version of the TH350) and 150hp was picked up at the treads. People are holding around 400rwkw with a well built and tuned BTR.

Look around mate. That's not the best price. And that guy on ebay has got a very average feedback score of 96.9%. Mod your car has it for 189.05

Me3. Generics are dangerous. You should get it on a dyno to make sure the important parameters are ok.

Really? What search terms did you use? Yeah ok, you could use "elephant hypertrophy osmosis" but I used"valve spring removal" and got these:: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/Valve-Spring-Tutorial-t26206.html http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/Valve-Spring-Install-t62409.html http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/Atomic-Performance-t60649.html http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/Valve-Spring-Tool-For-Removal-t60457.html http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/Valve-Spring-Again-t52385.html http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/Valve-Spring-Replacement-Tools-t43269.html http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/Fitting-Of-Valve-Springs-t41945.html http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/Pics-Of-Valve-Stem-And-t27118.html http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/Valve-Springs-Being-Fitted-t26024.html

I'd be sticking in a set of rods and decent rod bolts. I know you've mentioned money is a little tight, but it may end up costing you more in the long run.

Actually in hind-sight, I think not. I had other issues related to valve springs and a cam angle sensor at the same time which I kind of wasn't aware of. After I put the original coils back in, I had similar issues and that's when I discovered the cam angle sensor problem. I quickly rectified it by plugging the plug back in properly In the end, I am almost 100% certain that it wasn't the coils causing the misfiring issues as they all but disappeared once the cam angle sensor was feeding data to the ECU! Regardless, the service I received was that good that I will be giving them another shot on the big banger. When I know everything else is in place I should be able to ascertain how they perform.

That's some huuuge ports there Spiko. Do you have shares in an oil company?

No Spiko. I am using genuine ford coils ATM but plan on trialling the Weapon-X coils on my big banger.

I've tried these and they a have a locking mechanism on the plug. From my testing, they wont be coming loose.

So are you dropping in to your tuner to have that rev limit raised to 7000rpm first

They are "shorties" (48mm o-ring to o-ring) but there are spacers and wiring adapters to make them fit. No problemo.