straughsberry

Hey Bufster. Still lurking. The mega build is still on the cards albeit a VERY slow pace (life gets in the way sometimes). Just about to take the daily in for some diagnoses on a ticking from lower engine area and something seriously wrong in the diff/axles/arse end region. What else?

Clearance depends on the type of alloy used. 4032 expands less so you can run tighter clearances. 2618 expands more so needs more clearance but generally are said to handle more. I see that the Ross units are made from 2618.

The sound from the phone is misleading. It's definitely not an exhaust leak. Not saying it is, but in person it sound's very much like a collapsed lifter. Will be getting it diagnosed soon so I should know exactly.

Can't seem to get clean audio on my phone. This is the best I could do: The tick isn't there until 5 or so minutes after cold start. Makes me think it's a lifter...

It's not as bad as it sounds. The mic on the phone is being over driven by the exhaust which is making it sound a lot worse than it is. It's just the high-pitched 'ticking' that's the issue.

Hey all, Firstly some history. Car is a BA XR6 Turbo auto running 369rwkw with 150,000km on the clock. It's had a post 06/06 short motor for about the last 80,000km but the head is original. The car has had a miss and rough idle for years. There is no miss under load. It runs fine in gear and under acceleration. Over the last couple of weeks the rough idle resonates and vibrates through the car. Steering column, mirrors, seats etc. It wants to stall too. It evens out after 10 minutes of driving or so but is still there. After disconnecting battery, the roughness is a lot better and doesn't want to stall as much but it's still a little rough. A couple of nights ago it developed a ticking noise which seems to be coming from down low. It's a lot louder under the car. Not that noticeable from engine bay. Car still goes fine under throttle - no miss or reluctance to rev. Still making same boost. No fault codes. Flex plate? Rod? Lifter? Timing chain tensioner? Opinons? Cheers, Steph. .

Maybe the tuner was trying to help by storing the tune in his safe. What, with all the tune related crime lately, you can never be too safe.

I was flicking through Foxtel the other day and came across a race with horsies in it. The caller was going through the positions when all of a sudden he called "Fully Sik Bro". This is related to running without a BOV as only a fully sick bro would do that. Anyone from here running no BOV own a horse??? And to the OP, 144,000km on my turbo running no BOV and around 18psi. Still running like a fully sick bro. Tsssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssuuuuuuuuuuututututu.

Yeah my auto was built by RVO. I can only comment on my experience which has been awesome.

My built BTR has 80,0000 odd km on it holding 370rwkw street only with no cooler. It needed a freshen-up (new bands and torringtons while it was open) after about 50,000km. I never give it a boot full in 4th and drive it like a manual, always down-shifting to use engine breaking. Line pressures were upped both in the box and tune. It bangs firmly into all gears and has never flared. Considering the price of a rebuild and just 1 freshen up in 80,000km, it's a ripper little box for daily driving and as mentioned in previous replies, built right and looked after, it should go for quite a while with power well into the 300rwkw region.

Shannons will list and insure every mod on your car. I also got a very good agreed value on my BA. A few k higher than other companies who won't insure your mods.

Post 06/06 rods are slightly stronger and provision for 2 knock sensors.

White smoke doesn't sound good to me. See what your tuner says. Hope it isn't serious.

It's still on the cards. Head is all done but changed my mind on pistons, rods, crank and some block goodies. Stuff like that and life gets in the way sometimes.

In my cupboard. Ever since they bombed, shot and drove a truck through the house behind mine, I'm scared to go out

I don't know if this is still current but in the passed you could get both systems with different muffler specs. One was louder than the other and suspect also flowed a little better. I've had the "louder" XForce 3.5" SS twin tip system on my BA for for around 6 years now. No problem except the cat de-laminating and making it's way into the rear muffler. My car is an auto with a 2800rpm converter. I wouldn't say it drones.

Might also need to check the tappet clearance with a feeler gauge.

Sounds like an issue I had once. It was the cam angle sensor on the drivers side near the exhaust. The wires can get pretty toasted.

I still have a couple of sets of Mahle Powerpak pistons and Argo rods from when I did a bulk buy a couple of years ago. I just want to get rid of them so if anyone is interested, send me a PM for price. If your'er after 14mm studs, you can use 460BB studs.

I had a throttle problem. Logged faults showed throttle control system limiting RPM (which felt like a sticky throttle) then engine shutdown. Cleaning the electrical connextions to the TPS fixed the issue for me.

I'd regularly get limited RPM then engine shutdow after washing the car. It became an especially anoying glitch during the air drying process.

I had a throtle system problem that went on for few months. It would intermittently limit RPM then shut down the engine. Mine was resolved by disconnecting the TB/TPS, spraying it with some WD40 and reconnecting. The problem hasn't come back for a couple of months now. I don't know if it was just a co-incidence but it hasn't come back since.

Ba, factory turbo, 2750 stall, BTR, 17psi for 370rwkw on 98

As far as why it went into limp mode you mean? Still, I'm sure there's something else going on with cooling system. I'm changing out the thermostat and probaly do an oil change while I'm at it and see what the temps do.