stukaoo2

I've been tossing up if I'm gonna get rid of the bracket or not... after reading about all the loose/lost turbo bolts I've decided I'm gonna stick with it (even though it is a effin pain in the ass) I'm guessing the bracket will help keep everything rigid and hopefully stop the bolts from going on excursion! thoughts??? here's a pic for those who don't have one (the lower exhaust housing studs need to be installed through the two holes in the bracket first)

Hey mate, Your 100% correct in saying you need to use your rear speaker channel to run the sub. In behind the passenger side kick pannel you will need to find the correct wires for your rear left and rear right speakers (off the top of my head the are 2 pinks and 2 blues?? you should be able to search for a wiring diagram on the forums) they will be running in the loom that connects to the big orange plug behind the kick panel. Once you locate the correct wires, and your 100% sure they are the right ones, you need to cut them and wire in your line level convertor, making sure your attatching the correct wires to the correct input on the convertor (+ and -, L and R) There's a nice little spot to mount the box beside the glove box )take the glove box out by opening and giving it a good thump with the palm of your hand on the two pivot points underneath) I find double sided tape works well enough. Then it's just a case of running your rca's to your amp. When you get all this done and realise your line level convertor produces sub par sound quality, PM me, as I have a nice little LC6i for sale Cheers, Stuka P.s, it might also be worth checking if your amp will accept "high level" input (alot of newer amps do) if your amp does accept high level input, you wont need your line level convertor, you may not even need a remote wire to switch the amp on. Just an after thought.

Thanks Dagabond, I might have a look through my loom to see if I can see the little buggers while my dash is out. Does anybody know which side of the car the amp feed runs down usually?

Hey Lads, Can anyone tell me if my ba mk2 ute will have the sub wires already included in the loom from the back of the icc to one of the kick panels? I'm assuming they would usualy run to the amp in the boot of cars fitted with premium sound. I've had a look at the entertainment system diagrams on the forums and im the colour code on the in+ and in- wire to the amp are listed as yellow and "shield" respectivly... wtf is "shield"???? If anyone can tell me which kick panel these wires usualy run to and if the loom "should" include them it would be awesome Cheers, Stuka

Hello all, I'm in the middle of updating to dual zone climate control, and I may have jumped into the job without the best information. After searching these forums it seems that I should have set my temp to 'hot' before pulling everything apart. I'm almost certain that I had it set to 'ac max'. Bloody Queensland heat! Where I'm up to; dash is out and I'm up to installing the dual zone short mixer shafts. The long shaft has been removed and the drivers side actuator is installed with one of the shorter shafts (the actuator and short rods have a locator so they can only be installed in the right position, the HIM doesn't on my mk2 ba), HIM is removed... but, unfortunatly im not sure what position the mixer flap was in when I removed the origional actuator rod and it seems the HIM will accept the passanger side rod at any poition as there is no locator. Is there a way to locate the actuator with the HIM so the flap is in sync with the HIM. I'm guessing if this is not lined up properly it could cause havoc when I power the car up next. Any help would be appreciated, as this job is now at a stand still Stuka

Thanks a heap austcro.

I just picked up a kicker cvt 12' slimline for my ute... only $160 at JB! it only requires minimum 28lt sealed box, wich is easily achieved without sacrificing too much room behind your seats.

Thanks for the advice Smicky, I've actually decided to take that amp out and run it in my ute along with a ta3401 mono that I picked up. So I'll mount the next amp a little higher if the rca's are in a similar position. Can any of you guys give me some advice on a nice budget amp that might be good for the job, it will be driving the front speakers (polk db571's, 5x7 coaxials, 180w max, 60w rms) and the sub (mtx t6000 12', 250w rms, 500w total I think) Like I said, it will only be in the girls car so price is definatly a factor. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

sure, heres the rca adapter I made up sitting in behind the glovebox I've since got some screw caps to neaten the boot up a bit sorry for the size of the images, im still working this stuff out. Anyway, after some bribery (a bloody $250 hair straightener for the missus!!) I managed to get the ok for a system for the ute so I went out and got a sub today, still deciding on the rest of the system, so ill post up pics through the week of the progress.

Thanks for the advice fella's, but after getting this gear off my mate I found that the mono block was dead so I decided to just use the four channel and amp the front speakers and bridge the resr channel for the sub in the boot. I did my research on the amp and found that it was capable of accepting high level input so I got a couple of female rca plugs from jaycar and soldered the front left and front right speaker wires onto the back of them. I screwed together a couple of small mdf offcuts and screwed the rca plugs into the mdf. Then I mounted it just above the passenger side kick panel out of the way. Then it was just a case of running the rca's to the amp in the boot. The mtx amp doesn't require a remote wire if its being fed a high level input, so it was all pretty straight forward. I just plugged it all in and away it went. When the missus got home from work I got her to sit in the car so I could set the gain on the sub and the front speakers, I told her to let me know when she was happy with the level "doof"... to cut a long story short, she said there was too much "doof" with the gain all the way down! (I thought it sounded just right with the gain at about a 1/4) So the system thumps. All in all I'd have to say it was a success, if there's any other audio newbies out there thinking about giving it a go... I say do it. I've picked up a heap of knowledge along the way, so when it comes time for a stereo in my turbo, I'll be confident I can handle the job! I forgot the names of the various members who have posted up detailed guides for this and and that on these forums, but without them I would have been in a lot of trouble.... so thanks fellas!

Hello all, Like most people on this forum I'm looking for some info and advice on installing some stereo equipment. I've recently been gifted some mtx audio gear from a mate of mine, MTX thunder 6000 12' sub MTX rt251d monoblock MTX ta 3404 4ch Now, I'm pretty much a novice when it comes to stereo installations, I've just installed a couple of 6' splits and an amp into my hilux work ute over the weekend and I think I'm getting the bug. After reading through a hell of a lot of information in this forum I've come to the conclusion that I really only have 3 options if I want to use this gear with the icc, I can use a line convertor from my rear speaker wires, I can use one of these LC6 jobs for a better result or I can modify my icc with rca pre outs. I'm fortunate enough to have my better half's XT to experiment on before I move onto my T ute. The plan is to install this gear into her sedan so I have an excuse to spend money on my ute! I'm not sure which way to go yet, obviously the line converter is the cheapest option, but are all line convertors on par? or is there a specific brand/make I should be looking for if I choose to take this route? I'm a stickler for sound, so I would really like to avoid this option as I understand that the line convertor will un-amp (is that the right word???) the signal and then it will be amp'd again by my.... amp... that's a lot of amp's. Is this correct? From what I can gather the LC6 is a convertor also but it is just more efficient? can I expect excellent sound quality from this unit? I'm also keen on doing all the work myself, is this a difficult task to wire it in? Also, should I expect to spend around the $300 mark? The icc rca pre out option sounds like the best option to me as I like to keep things neat and tidy, the less wires the better. I've searched ASL's website but I can't find any mention of this mod. Does anybody have a rough idea of the cost? is there someone in Brisbane that can do this mod, or are ASL my best bet? I've seen Quadie's thread with the guide to doing this job, but both links seem to be dead so I haven't had a chance to look at it to see the work it entails. I know this has been long winded, and I appreciate anybody who takes the time to reply to this, but I have one last question... and I think it might show how limited my knowledge of this sound stuff is, but I digress. After fitting up my $40 boss audio amp to my hilux, I noticed that it has two lots of rca inputs, one for front and one for rear. I only have one lot of rca outputs on my dodgy Kenwood hu (which I have plugged into the "front" input) if I decide to use the rear channels, or if I decide to bridge it for a sub, how do I get a signal into the "rear" input? I know this is probably a silly question, but as I said, my first install took place this weekend, so take it easy on me.... please Thanks in advance guys... Stuka002

Hey fella's, links dead again. Would anybody be interested in sending me this guide via email? It'd be much appreciated. Cheers

First post... hi everyone. Put me down for a set as well. cheers