dazxr6t

mine used to overboost all the time (03 auto). it was a problem with the actuator. it had a leak in the diaphram or something so it was replaced with a second hand one for $25AU. fixed that problem. it did lose power though in comparison to what it had prior to overboosting because it was spiking to 15LB. then flash tuned it and added a heap of other stuff but if you have an actuator problem you need to fix it first. get someone to check how much pressure your actuator holds by pumping air into it with an inline pressure gauge. if it loses pressure once 4 or 5 psi has been put into it it's stuffed. in the meantime if you get overboost and the car runs really rough you just need to stab the throttle really quickly to the floor and back off as quick as you can and it should reset the whole system and the car will run normally rather than switching it off and restarting it or driving for 100 m or so until the boost drops which is a pain.

I''m from the gold coast. the guy that owns chip torque has a pretty quick xr6t apparently so you would hope they know how to tune one. we pulled out dyno sheets for about 6 other xr6t's that have been run on the same dyno and they had good KW's. variation was between about 250 and 330 KW for memory but not one of them came near mine for torque. I think the closest was about 80 NM or so less than mine. I'm sort of getting the sh*ts with the car and I don't want to spend any more money on it and not get the results I have been told I should be getting. if someone can come up with a reason why I'm not getting the results I'll consider giving it a go but at the moment I think it's just going to stay how it is. it's not slow by any stretch but it's not mind blowing either. had a run with 2 cars tonight. 1st some fool in a vp ss he was nowhere. the second was some sort of renault hatch or something like that, didn't get a proper look at it, but man it was QUICK. I recon he would have had me if he could have got beside me properly without traffic interfering.

I can look at the attachments on my computer when I click on them please let me know if they don't work for you. if you can look at them as you can see I've got 780 n/m at 2100 then it drops from there to a probably more believable reading of 650 n/m at 3000. the car definitely doesn't need a lot of throttle at low revs to maintain speed but something still doesn't seem right to me. boost is also very constant through the rev range. I would have also thought that if the gearbox was slipping that I wouldn't get such a high torque figure even though that could explain the low kw. I'M LOST

it's auto. tuned by chip torque on the gold coast. as far as boost goes the line could hardly be straighter. holds about 10 1/2 psi right through. I'll try and work out how to post the dyno sheet for you to seeIMG_0001.pdf. not sure if this has worked but I'll post it and see. by the way anyone for a drag race towing trailers I'm in, should go ok there IMG_0002.pdf

ba xr6t k&n high flow metal cat seimens 60 lb injectors flash tune (custom) typhoon front 1/2 stock exhaust nizpro valve springs stock intercooler stock plumbing 230.5 kw at 5100 at the wheels BUT 780 nm torque at the wheels at 2100 PLEASE EXPLAIN piss poor power but massive torque. goes pretty well but not the power I was after or what it should have for the mods. think they must have put a kenworth truck engine in there by mistake. still beats most things around but should have about 300+ for that amount of torque I would think

had my car in the workshop the other day getting the valve springs done when I said to the mechanic that the steering had started shuddering. he took the filler cap off and said the reservoir was under vacuum. he told me to turn the steering lock to lock a couple of times with the cap off and the engine running and what do you know problem fixed. I have heard that it is a common problem with ba's so before you spend any money give it a go it might work for you too.

just had the car on the dyno at chip torque. the problem was that someone has played with the actuator on the turbo. whatever they did caused the boost to spike at around 13 psi for a short period of time. the car actually had 150 rwkw at 3000 rpm with hardly any throttle. I said to the guy that's pretty crap power and he said for the amount of throttle he was using it was pretty bloody good. what chip torque did to fix it was bypass the boost control solenoid. this somehow by some computer wizardry dropped the boost back to a more ECU acceptable 7 psi. no more overboost limp mode. the car now goes straight to 6000 rpm or so. the problem with all this is that before when I got on the gas from 20 or 30 km/h it would plant you in the seat very hard and start to wheel spin. it made the car feel very quick up to around 4000 rpm but then it would cut out. now it feels soft more like I expected an xr6t to feel like when I bought it. so I'm happy that it's now running properly but disappointed that I've lost that shove in the back I used to get. at the end of the day the car has to be faster a-b but I want my wheel spinning power back. I asked about getting another actuator to make it standard again then flashing it but they said to leave it as is then they will do a custom flash tune to suit the actuator as it is and should probably get a little more horsepower than if I was to start with the standard one. thanks to those that tried to help me it was appreciated. suppose I'll just have to save for a flash tune now and see if that's enough to satisfy. if not goodbye bank balance for a little while. thanks darren

only bought the car 1 week ago but assume it's standard. don't think it's valve springs because if I stab the throttle when it goes into "limp mode" and let it off again instantly it sort of resets the computer or something because the car goes back to normal. if I don't do that it takes the normal 3 to 4 seconds to reset itself so I would probably rule out something mechanical otherwise the throttle stab wouldn't make an instant difference I wouldn't think. this leads me to think that it's something electical/computer. as soon as I find out where the knock sensor is located I'll check that as a previous poster suggested because this sort of thing seems to make sense to me but please keep the suggestions coming because they are appreciated. thanks darren

actually while I'm here can someone tell me where the knock sensor is located and I'll check it myself first. might save me $200 which I can put towards my flash tuner. thanks darren

thanks guys. the car is going into chip torque on friday to run it up on the dyno to see what shows up I'll definetely make sure I mention these suggestions. I'll let you know what the outcome is thanks darren

in my ba xr6t when using 2/3 throttle or more and when the tacho hits 4000 or so,the car goes into some sort of limp mode. the car sounds like it drops 2 or 3 cylinders and keeps going like this for about 3 or 4 seconds then the engine goes back to normal. also once it does this if I stab the throttle to the floor and release it the engine instantly goes back to normal. anybody got any ideas about what could be causing this frustrating problem because just as it's about to become fun it cuts out. the engine doesn't stall and it doesn't happen unless you give it a decent amount of throttle. it's ok up to about 2/3 throttle. thanks darren