aussieturtle

Hi Roger, I will probably be fitting it next week with any luck so I will get a couple of piccies as I go. Apparently its a piece of P - but Ive heard that before....... :-) Cheers Tom

Hi Guys, Ford are fitting a hardlid to my BF so I have just ordered a kit from Greg at Lidlok. The install was described and seems straightforward as previously posted. Will let you know how it goes. Cheers Tom

Hi Spruce, Great looking gauges - I think they will be really good and be very easy to read from the pictures. If you use the existing wires for power, ground and lighting - and the sender wiring from ozegauge it should work out a treat. Let me know how you go. Cheers Tom

Hi, It also provides structural rigidity. Cheers

Hi Spruce, I would suspect that all the wireing would be OK - you may have to change the terminals to suit either the cluster or the sender(or if they are spades but in a different configuration - just de-pin the factory socket and fit the terminals independently). There are also a couple of posts that seem to indicate that the pod will accomodate aftermarket instruments with little modification. In the harness that I fitted I noted that there is a ground wire in the harness running to the senders but it is terminated at the plug/junction under the airbox. This would be for senders that require a ground and could be hooked up by simply getting an extra AMP pin from an auto electrician and continuing the wire to the new sender. If you were going for a tripod you could use the factory harness for oil pressure and temp whilst fitting a mechanical boost gauge. The lighting for the 3rd instrument can be simply spliced into the existing lighting supply at the pod - as could additional power and ground supply if you wanted another electronic gauge. You would just have to run an additional wite out to the sender of your choice. Hopefully others can add to this for you. Cheers Tom

Hi, 1. Remove the black undertray by removing the bolts and scrivets. (Dont forget the one in the center at the back behind the lip). 2. Remove the 4 big scrivets on the top of the radiator support and lift the edge of the top tray(above the grill where the secondary bonnet release is). This will uncover the 2 top bumper bar bolts - take them out. 3. Remove the 2 scrivets and 1 self tapper from each splashguard in the wheel arch. 4. Grip the bumper at the back corner next to the guard on the drivers side and pull out - this does take a little effort to release the bumper from the clip. Repeat this on the passenger side. 5. Move around to the front and grip the bumper top and bottom and ease it away from the car. 6. Sit the bumper down gently and disconnect the fog lamp plugs(or use an assistant if the car is on stands). You can disconnect the plugs as step 2 if you wish if the car is raised - I cant get my melon under there if it is on its wheels :-). As for the scrivets - you need to slip a screwdriver under the edge to stop them from spinning whilst unscrewing the center pin. When the center pin is about 3/16" out you should be able to remove the whole thing. If you cant - grab a safety razor and cut the top off the whole thing. They are available for next to nothing from Ford Spares - or for a little more money you can get them in a 2 unit blister pack from any disreputable auto accessory shop :-). It is not as intimidating as it looks and once you have done it the first time it will only take about 15 minutes to do next time. Good luck with it. Tom

Hi Ben, If you have the bumper and the shock absorber(white plastic bumper support) off the lamp assy should come out with the bolts removed. I found that I had to have all the plugs disconnected as well as the indicator wire was a little tight. Hope this helps. Tom

Hi Adam, If I had a T I would really look at the tripod as you can hav Boost with your oil temp/pressure(I think pressure without temp is not as helpful in assessing engine health - the engineer in me I guess....). I went for the FPV unit as I only wanted the oil instruments and I really wanted to use OEM equipment - just personal choice :-) As for accuracy - I have found that they give me enough info and being VDO - the quality will be good and there is more chance that they are right than wrong IMHO. The main thing that you should be looking for with any of these gauges is a change/or shift in indication from the norm(where they usually sit and what you are used to seeing given the way the car is being driven and the ambient conditions at the time). This will be the tell that something has changed and perhaps further investigation is warrented. It all comes down to what you want I recon. Cheers Tom

Yep - no worries. You have power, ground and lighting there. I'm not sure if this turns off with the key out or not though as I have never used the socket. It might drain the battery when the car is parked if it doesnt by continuing to power the gauges. But like I said I dont know..... I liked the ford harness as I didnt have to cut or modify the car harness which I felt was important and I believe it is around $60 if bought separately so is relatively cheap. Good luck with it and have fun - I always like doing stuff like this but I like driving the car more once it done :-) Cheers Tom

The badges for the airbox are often on ebay. Cheers Tom

Hi, I have posted a how to do instruction in this forum using the Ford harness. This gives you the power(Off the Junction Board aux tee's into the power supply for the hands free as done by FPV and grounds at the stud on the same Junction Board in the vehicle) as well as lighting pinouts off the Driving Light switch - I hope this is what you are after. Cheers Tom http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...st&p=562168

Hi All, This is how I put my FPV Pod in my BF XR8 (Oil Pressure and Temperature). I used the harness available from Ford which made it easy as you dont have to cut anything. It took me around 6 hours and I think it would be worth using even for aftermarket instruments. I got the harness with a kit off ebay but unfortunately there was no information how to hook it up. I hope this helps you. Cheers Tom FPV_Gauge_Installation_Step_by_Step.pdf

Hi Craig, You are 100% right - I fitted my VDO senders using your adapter NO Worries! If you need one for your BF I can totally recommend Craigs unit. It arrived at my place the next morning after calling and I had it in the car in around 10 minutes - easy. Cheers Tom

Hi, I use BMW concentrate in my BF @ 50% by volume. I have used it in all my cars over the last 11 years and have never seen anything other than a clean waterjcket at change time. My last car had over 330000km on it with the original waterpump. To changeover I dumped the existing stuff, flushed, then refilled - easy. The best part is that it works out at around $11/1.5l bottle from your friendly BMW dealer and it is blue! The other thing you can do while the system is empty is to fit electrical heatshrink to your coolant hoses to secure/replace the anti chafe sleeves, as I have found that the electrical tape comes off. This is particularly useful on the Boss motors where the top hose runs a little close to the engine cover. Cheers Tom

Hi, Is this on a BA? I want to fit the same unit to a BF but undrstand that the thread is different - can anyone confirm this? Thanks Tom