austcro

Sorry to revive this, but I still have the original copy of quadies guide for anyone who wants it. (I'm only about 8 or 9 months behind!) https://dl.dropbox.com/u/86551401/RCAtoICC.pdf enjoy!

Thanks EFSIX, checking it out now.

I bought a new FG MKII yesterday and I'm wanting to put some wide rims on it. Coming from a BF with 8 inch wide rims, they are completely inadequate. So, what is the widest rim and tyre combination that I can put on the back of this work of art without fouling or scrubbing anywhere, especially on the guards. I don't mind rolling the rear guards either if it achieves my objective. I'm planning some big numbers later this year and would like it to hook up as much as possible. Gotta say, I like the dark argents, as they're understated and don't attract much attention from the fuzz, I would also like to keep the car as inconspicuous as possible. I also had a look on fleabay and saw the staggered dark argents in 20x9.5 and 20x8. Has anyone tried these and found they fit ok? Thanks in advance!

Good article GR8XR6 Yes the taper is a fundamental design element. Without it the inertia of the air being forced into the plenum will naturally carry it towards the rearmost runner, the taper will counter this somewhat.

Yeh, 1.5 x engine capacity(l) is a good rule of thumb. Some prefer a factor of 2. For a street car I don't think it will make much difference, using a factor anywhere between 1.3 and 1.6 is fine. However, the larger the plenum the better the distribution with consideration to decreasing your response. Runner volume is not a variable in a plenum calculation. The figure you calculate is pure plenum volume. I would keep the taper as well. I also notice that you are possibly going to bolt through to the factory manifold from inside the plenum. I would be careful with this approach as the bolts can back out slowly over time until they eventually fall into the runner. A circlip will prevent this, as will bolting from underneath. The problem with the circlip approach is that you will have to machine a groove for the clip to sit in which will make this exercise more expensive. I like that rajab plenum, very good presentation. Paint it black or silver and it will be pure stealth. But for $1400 I would prefer a Plazmaman plenum. The Greenslade plenum looks very agricultural, but it is cheap. Keep going with the custom job carbz, there is way more satisfaction to be had doing it your own way.

IMO I wouldn't be slotting that. You most definitely will not be cutting down turbulence. What I would be doing is chamfering or bevelling the leading edge into the runners. This means you would be chamfering on the plenum side. A bevel would be almost as good and perhaps easier to do depending on the method you choose to fabricate this with. Another idea would be to remove the bridge on each runner to make one large entry (east-west instead of north-south), and then mirroring that on your plenum with a chamfer or bevel machined into the slot to provide the smoothed entry into the runner. By the way, which CAD product are you using? There are some packages out there that can provide fluids analysis capabilities that might make this a bit easier to quantify.

It has been a long time since I completed my degree in Mech Eng, I forget what the exact reason is but I'll attempt to answer this. As the engine operates you get pulses moving back and forth along the inlet tract. The pulses need to be isolated so that the engine works most efficiently in its target rev range. Helmholtz resonance comes to mind now that I think of it Helmholtz For force fed applications the runner length is not as important as it is in a NA application so I figure Fraud decided that the manifold setup was good enough to be used in both XR6 Turbo and NA as they already had the molds etc. The only real way to determine how good a manifold is for an engine is trial several designs. Also, have a look at this: Intake manifold design In short, intake manifold design is a complex topic. The scope of this topic is larger than can really be explained in this thread. I'd really have to go back and look all this stuff up again.

I would really like to know how he achieved this. Did he remove some of the main and big end caps to inspect the bearings? How does he know that the bearings are worn? What criterion did he evaluate this against? Something is not right, he is mixing fact with fiction which in my experience is the most dangerous kind of con artist. Don't let him undo another nut or bolt, seriously. Also, as previously said get the oil supply line to the turbo replaced and the inline turbo oil supply filter removed as soon as practically possible. My BF XR6 turbo has 100,000km on it, when I removed the screen I inspected it very closely and it was almost blocked. Check this thread for more details: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=32461 And I wouldn't be throwing anything at the engine. Take it somewhere else and get some tests done on it; Any decent mechanic should know how to do this work. If the oil pump was rooted and the bearings are as worn as he reckons they are you'll be seeing a drop in compression, and oil pressure. Don't have the specifications for this at hand, maybe someone else here has access to the manual. You can also get the manual on CD off ebay for $5-$10 or so.. Good luck..

If it were me, I would go with the 4 inch dump. To put it in perspective, the standard dump is 3 inches in diameter, gaining half an inch of diameter is not much of an improvement IMHO. My 2 cents for what it's worth

I had a look at doing this Monday as it was a public holiday in Canberra. To say that this job is a PITA is a gross understatement. Removed the airbox. This made it easy to get in there without getting under the car. I bought a cheap 15/16 spanner and chopped it in half after reading in this thread that it was required. Used a large spark plug socket with the rubber removed from the inside so I could get it over the sender socket. Half of the fitting came off right there and then; no probs. Removed the banjo fitting and all I had to remove was the last part of the fitting. Used the chopped spanner but couldn't get it off FFS, no leverage after chopping the spanner in half. Stood there for about an hour trying figure out how I was gonna get it off without damaging something else. A nice deep 15/16 inch socket would have been perfect, alas, I didn't have one. <scratch head/> So I ended up using a very long 1/2 inch drive extension bar and the half spanner; poked it down between the fuel rail and the head. Put the drive end of the extension bar on the end of the spanner which was positioned on the fitting. Got the hammer out and belted the top of the extension bar and inched the fitting to the point where I could get my hands in there and use some muscle to turn it out with the spanner. If you use this technique, be mindful that there is a fitting right below the end of the spanner that you could easily belt off. There's not much room to move in there. It came off eventually without killing something else You don't need circlip pliers to get the filter out, I used a sharp nail and bent the circlip to the point where I could get a small pair of needle-nosed pliers to rip the circlip the rest of the way out. If you're pulling the filter out for good, you won't be needing the circlip after doing this. The filter just dropped out from there. Now I'm glad that I did this because the filter was almost completely blocked. I'm praying that the turbo wasn't starved of oil. I have owned many turbocharged cars in the past and this stupid filter was never an issue; I've never had a turbo fail on me without the filter. As others have said it should have probably been removed after the first or second service, third service at the outside. Recommendation: Get rid of it if you haven't already, seriously. Lessons learned: You really can't do this without decent tools. And I'm kicking myself I didn't remove the POS earlier... Tools required: One 15/16 inch spanner, cut in half A ratchet (3/8 or 1/2 inch drive) A few different length extension bars A large spark plug socket A deep 15/16 inch socket A long sharp nail to remove the circlip Small needle-nosed pliers like the ones jewelers use The filter is really tiny; I really would like to tear up the engineering degree of whoever decided that the filter should be left in place.

Stainless has a higher co-efficient of thermal expansion than mild steel. 17 to 18 um/m/c vs 13 um/m/c. But yeh, stainless is definitely the better option. Obviously, it just comes down to whether you want to spend the money.. so I'm with turbotrana

Indeed. And when they finally agree to do it they get the local kindergarten to come in work on the car... won't be buying another Ford after all of this; not in Canberra anyway.

The guide weighs in at 22meg, so it's far to big to email. Instead, I have uploaded to a couple of file hosting sites. Here: Bigupload.com and here: Rapidshare.com Whichever link you click, don't sign up, just hit the "free" button. If using the rapidshare link, wait for the countdown to complete and then click "download"; it should only take a minute or so. Another thing, the links might die in about a month. Enjoy fellas; Thanks to Quadie for the guide.

Dunno if it's just me but did anyone notice in the auction that the dump pipe is Tube Size 76mm ( 4" )? So which is it? 76mm or 4"? 76mm would make it ~3" wouldn't it. Typo?

Why would you want to build a plenum out of S/S? S/S is a nightmare to fabricate anything out of. It's heavy, hard to cut and drill, expensive, high coefficient of expansion. The only thing it has going for it is that it's slighty easier to weld than aluminium. My choice would be aluminium any day. What exactly are you trying to achieve by doing this?