Full Monty

Drivers side is a bit of a pain to get at, as there is a few heat sheilds to remove etc to gain access..make sure you put them back also, as the heat from the turbo will perish the rubber quick smart.

Broken LHS engine mount. Did mine myself at home in teh driveway in around 20 mins. Careful driving it, because it will come up and hit the bonnet! - I slightly marked my bonnet sheild when mine broke, (funnily enough I wasnt being silly or anything, just drove off from the lights and heard a bang)...on inspection the metal had air pockets in it, causing it to fail around the bolt head. Grab a good Jack, place a peice of wood over the jack head, to protect the sump, gently raise the engine on the Left side to take pressure off the Left mount, unbolt it, put the new mount in, and bolt it all back up to correct torque values. much easier job than you'd think, fark paying $170 to do it, unless it was the RHS mount, which is a bitch to get at.

Did you get a solution for this HypnoDoc? Ive got a similar whirring coming from the back of mine at 5-60kms, then dissapears... Just started over the weekend.

Nope, don't worry about it, unless it is making noises that could spawn the devil...lol They are very strong diffs, and able to withstand 400 - 500rwkw. Just make sure you use the correct oil and additive _Castrol SAFXA has it already added. Only worry if it starts making graunching noises, or the LSD action begins to act up.

Sorry to tell you, but you can change out the diff / gears etc, just for it to return, perhaps at a different rev range. They all do it, some worse than others, its a no cost option with the Dana M86 Diff due to the spiral / curvature shape of the gears. I have spoken to differential specialists about the issue, and the cost of getting it blueprinted for exact tolerances etc...they said dont waste your money. Many members have had numerous diff changes under warranty, to no avail, and often you end up with a worse one. Only if it were really bad, would I bother to do something about it, considering your location. My suggestion, is to fill it with quality recommended diff oil, such as the Castrol SAF-XA with the added teflon additive. Then by some under carpet /felt type sound insulation, and install it under the carpet in the boot, and underneath the seat, this will reduce the amount of vibration / sound entering the cabin.

Its F@ck/n even hotter today!..rediculous... Just went outside the office for the first time...It was like that scene from Total Recall, Where Arnies eyes are popping out from the atmosphere on Mars..

Update on teh rear shock bushings...I went to ford spares, and they showed me on screen the exploded parts diagram for the rear suspension assembly, and there is no part number for rear shock bushings. I had the wheels off the car over the holidays, and with the rear suspension un weighted, I couldn't replicate the clunking sounds. Im stumped, could be lower or upper control arm bushes?

I'd say the Superpro Polyurethane bush is unbreakable, but its noisier than standard.

Mine developed a fault in one of the coils late last year. Symptoms were, breaking down under load, like a stutter - traction control "bap bap bap bap"..Sounded kinda cool, like the new launch control in the FG manuals..heheh swapped out all 6 coils, and whalla, all fixed

You need a cams level 2S license to do any type of sprint / stage motor racing, minimum. a 2s will entitle you to run in staggered start track days, with strict rules in place re: overtaking etc...Theses are easiy obtained for under $100 from Cams. Only prerequisite is that you have a club membership (ie FPV & XR club of Vic). As a member of the FPV & XR club, you are eligible for their track days and annual motorsport rounds / championship. Anything higher than that requires a full blown driver assesment / license test. But you probably wouldn't want to race your Phoon in these types of events.

The key is to have a special track tune mapped, with reduced boost - say capped to 12psi, but increased timing and high octane fuel, this reduces exhaust gas temps, and inlet temps too. There is no reason you couldnt obtain 320 rwkw with say around 12-13psi if you had full inlet / plenum and free flowing exhaust ? then you arent straining the turbo.. Sandown is pretty punishing on the turbo, with long straights - sustained w.o.t, with very little to no recovery time. Did you have any oil temp warnings after 9 laps? what boost levels were you running that day? I know the Typhoons have an oil cooler, but they are far from ideal...As they transfer oil temperature into the cooling system, via heat exchange, so you end up running hotter and hotter water temps in these extreme conditions. Best solution would be an air cooled radiator, with an inbuilt thermostat in the sandwich plate, to prevent it opening and circulating oil through the cooler until the oil reaches 90'ish deg.

running high PSi, over say 12psi for lap after lap, generates an enormous amount of heat in the turbo....The standard turbo has a nylon caged bearing, which will distort under such torture, leading to the turbo shaft becoming out of alignment, (at this point you will hear the turbo start to whistle louder and louder)... Until the compressor wheel contacts the housing and destroys itself, exiting out the exhaust. Nizpro have a stainless cage bearing to replace the std one, but its a turbo out job, so best done when you are doing the flapper mod. I strongly suggest you run a track safe tune, something with reduced boost, increased timing and 100 octane fuel, and limit stints to 3-4 laps, with a slow cool down lap before pitting.

James James James....forget about power mate, its about the corners...For instance, your around 8 seconds per lap off the pace of what a bog stock standard BA f6 typhoon is doing around sandown... My mate in his standard BA xr6T is doing sub 1.30's with a passenger on board. std clutch and not a single mod. its all about the corners mate, dont be afraid of those apex's, ohh and brake about 50 meters later for turn 1, 2, dandynong road, and the final complex ...judging by your last youtube vids....hehehe If you want to go fast around the track, I have a friend in the business, who's tuition for one day, will shave double the time off whatever mods you can do to your car will acheive. guarantee'd how many laps you running per stint? and has temp been a problem? Watch that turbo running 15'ish psi for more than 3 laps....it will lunch itself

Go to advanced alloys in Moorabbin, Tom Wilkinson is a member here (xr6T ute) and a great guy! has looked after me a couple of times now.

Your problem is oil temperature, 3-4 laps of sandown results in the same for me (mind you long straights - full power). You need a good aftermarket oil cooler, with an inbuilt thermostat, mounted in an area with plenty of airflow. Same issue occurs for my friends standard BA XR6T after 3-4 laps (he is an instructor for John Bowe Driving Your next issue is keeping the turbine wheel in one peice at higher boost levels for sustained periods (ie 10 consecutive laps). The Nylon Bearing cage supporting the turbine tends to melt and distort under such extreme prolonged temperatures, once this happens you'll hear the party whistle "as Simon G describes it"...meaning the party is over and you're up for a rebuild. (good news is that there is a stainless bearing cage available). Simon at Nizpro suggested keeping stints to 5 laps or less, and doing cool down laps before entering the pits to let turbo / oil, brake temps come down, before stationary.

Thankyou, your a champ, gives me a good start...and would this same bush be used with aftermarket shocks such as pedders? Im assuming you mean a bush that sits around the top shock mount bolt? Do you have a part number I can quote?

Yep I did my rear sway bar links around the same time as my diff bushes...(90,000kms) Fwnsp or senna Can you advise, what other bushes / linkages should be looked at in the rear end suspension assembly? whats prone to wear? Ive got a rattle / knocking sound Im trying to diagnose / rectify...It only happens over slight bumps / ruts in the road at slow speed. Im thinking its rear upper / lower hub bush's / shock related, as it seems like its directly related to rear wheel vertical travel, over bumps. and it only seems to come from the left rear? got me stumped, I had it at pedders, and we had it on their jiggle machine...couldnt repeat it or locate it. Gav

You will need different rotor hats (assuming you are getting rotors from him also) and also different adaptor brackets are required, which can be pretty pricey (quoted around $600 a pair to have some alloy CNC ones made to suit a BA) Get the model numbers of the calipers and call Race Brakes, or Competition Friction, they can advise and supply the needed rotors / brackets

Yep, unfortunately illegal, as its not crash tested, engineered to have crumple zones. carbon shears / breaks apart instead of deforming, crumpling like a steel bonnet would. The manufacturer would have to crash test a bunch of cars with the bonnet fitted for it to be approved. I looked into this a while back, I wanted one bad, but no Carbon bonnets in Aus for the BA-BF are currently legal. Ohh yeah, remember to duck when you are in a head on accident =0

When you replace the main diff bush with a nolathane equivalent, noise levels in cabin does increase, due to the nolathane being a stiffer material therefore transmitting noise / mechanical vibration directly into the chassis. The reason Ford engineered the rear bush to be so soft, is to mask this noise. R-spec, not sure about your vibration, sounds a little worse than just the usual diff whine? Perhaps the rear cradle hasnt been re-aligned correctly. A special tool must be used to ensure the cradle is re-fitted square with the chassis.

Yep its a modified new Ford Cast cover, with large plates welded to it...looks pretty Tough! To be honest with you, my front 2 bushes were fine when they were removed, it only cost me $20 odd bucks each, so I replaced them for peace of mind. I think the front bushes are ok, as they are mounted so far outward from the diff, that they have a large moment / good leverage to resist twisting torque, Its the rear bush bolt arrangement that's full of fail. Totally agree that it needs a revision, the stupid thing is that ford didnt really revise this in the FG (from what I have seen). Gav

Totally Agree mate, when I replaced my rear bush with a fulcrum one, I also did a new High tensile bolt, and the Mal woods cover plate. Along with the 2 front bushes with new ford ones. I hear Pedders have a rear diff bush now? and also I read Ford have a new revised bush? Sorry I dont have a pic of my mal woods cover plate, its substantially reinforced, with a few Plates welded down the side and across the top of the bolt / mount section. Gav

Great outcome mate! I had the same happy results with a few dings removed by PDRTEK in Melbourne (see my thread about the PDR process). I park at the far end of the car park when going to shopping centres etc, always at the end of the bay if possible (next to pole or kerb etc) to minimise risk of getting dents... Never ceases to amaze me the F$#ckwits that will park right up next to me, when Im a 5 min walk to the shops entrance, and theres no other car within 50 meters! My wife is also well trained in the art of the perfect park....havent received a scratch or dent in over a year...touch wood

Mine used to always kick left, and often violently so.. Until I had a "good" wheel alignment when I had my new set of Yokies fitted. Now on an even road, it lays 2 perfect straight black lines right through first and through second. Turns out, whilst I had the total amount of rear toe in about right, it had not enough on the left, and too much on the right...Very happy now. I have relatively new rear shocks, and have done all 3 diff bushings in the past year, so this may help also.

Ouchy Wowa! damn I knew it was too good to be true!...just 30km's? How many runs down the 1/4 is that?...lol