Full Monty

Ive got an all black CR500, purchased it early this year after riding my brothers....Fresh Piston, bored to 90.5mm, New Boyesen Rad valve with Carbon reeds, Pro Circuit Platinum Pipe and muffler. Too much bike for me, it bloody dislocates my elbows every time I think about more than half - 3/4 throttle. I know I'll never be good enough to fully exploit it, but christ its fun. Torquey Linear power, more than any current 450 4stroke.

Ive got the Ballistic 5" 100 cell. Previously had a Metal Cat that failed within a year. (biscuit came loose) The Ballistic core is welded to a inner sleeve, which is welded inside the body. I don't see this one coming loose. and the cells are very open, so should resist carbon build up / blocking well. Flows really well also, about the best there is. Very happy with mine.

what power level are you running steve?

there is quite allot of deflection / distortion of the new bush, it looks like the top half of the bush compresses down quite allot, leaving a gap between the bush and subframe. I wonder if somewhere in between this compound and the original would be better?

Thanks steve, that's great news, as I already have a superpro bush, I could just cut a circle the size of a socket to get to the bolt, then use the same method that you did to remove it and install, then just plug the hole with a rubber firewall type plug/grommet.

Yep and if you gut the cat, you need $10,000 for the fine. My advice would be to buy a standard cat section, from the wreckers or look on the for sale section for someone offloading a standard one after upgrading. Otherwise buy a hi-flo and injectors and get a retune.

steve, is there clearance between the diff cradle and the spare tyre well for the bush to be removed, or is it necessary to have a larger hole in the spare well for the bush to fit through. When I was looking at it, with the car on the hoist, I thought the bush may be able to be removed between the cradle and well, with just a hole big enough for a socket in the wheel well. If not a circular hole cutter drill attachment would be perfect to cut the hole, then paint the raw metal edges when done, and cover up with a big bit of tar based sound deadener sheet.

Steve, looking at the pics, I cant see how its different to my Superpro bush? softer material? or some holes in it to give it more flex?

awesome, this is the way the guy that installed mine said we should go, just drill a hole large enough for a extension socket to fit through, and to remove the bolt via. Brilliant news that it has been quiet so far. Do another video of it showing the flex, and I'm on board...

f*ck yeah! I went this year to see L.O.G again, and Unearth, Dillinger escape plan etc... Im going just for Meshuggah and Isis and FNM!

and another, mental

check out one of their other cars, 69 camaro, 1750hp, twin turbo 427..tons of bling.

Mine does the same thing from the rear shocks, especially when cold in the morning. To make matters worse, I have stiff rate pedders shocks, so it really transfers every bump in the road into the cabin. What did the ford guy say was the cause? is it the way the shocks are mounted? free play in the bushing mount? drives me nuts, ive had it at pedders, and they did the full diagnosis on the oscillation machine thingy, couldn't fix it. even after going over every bush in the rear end.

im sorry but, your throwing your money away (@4.5K exchange) there is no special super duper equipment for these boxes. Certainly not that warrants spending that sort of coin. You will find that all the workshops who were doing crazy experimental stuff to the BTR 4speed boxes a few years ago, have gone back to building them to spec, and paying particular attention to tolerances. The weakest part in them is the Planetary gears, which currently the best option is some cryo treated AU gears, (less brittle). @ around $300 a set. For your 4.5K, They might do some servo, solenoid mods, (firmer shifting) and build it to spec, paying close attention to tolerances. nothing special! My box, was in fine working order, I just wanted to do some preventative maintenance, and a couple of upgrades in the weak areas, so I had it serviced, with all clutchpacks replaced with the serrated revised BF plates which hold better, new hi energy bands, and cryo'ed AU planetaries, full fluid flush and replace. for under a grand. On top of that, the first thing you should do is install a good Transmission cooler, in a spot with good airflow, and preferably an inbuilt thermostat, so it lets the box get up to operating temp quickly. The trick to making these boxes strong, and last is all in the tuners hands!!! I.E getting all of the ramp rates correct, fluid pressures, and nice firm shifting. They are able to withstand a fair bit of mumbo, with the right tuner / setup. Mine is withstanding 800nm and just over 300rwkw. I say save your money and just get them to service the box, replace bands and clutchpacks with BF spec ones, and maybee replace planetaries with Cryo AU's. then go to a tuner who know's how to get them set up properly.

Ive been watching mine closely since my last round of upgrades and retune, ive been noticing its been quite a bit better. On the weekend, FWY driving with me and the Mrs in the car, and a couple of bags in the boot (04 BA Sedan) 105-110kph and Instant usage sitting in the mid 6's. I find that if I get slightly above the speed I want to sit at, and slightly release the throttle, to find the least amount of throttle required to maintain that speed, the numbers improve a bit.

Look forward to seeing what you come up with, I too have the polyurethane diff bush, and the noise can be bothersome...Im going to be installing sound deadening underneath the rear seat, to lessen the NVH entering the cabin, from both the diff and fuel pump. Probably do the spare wheel well and boot also.

I was thinking about running some 4" flexi hose I have made for auto/cooling/ducting and running it from the opening downward and attach it to the rear edge of the bumper wind tray thingie - maybee put some mesh over the end of the hose to stop it picking up leaves etc.

Glad to hear your ok... Man if it were me, im not sure the other guy would be ok, I'd find it hard to restrain myself.

Now its off, you might as well take it in to a local Turbo specialist and get em to give you their opinion over the counter, whether the amount of play is within spec. but it sounds fine to me. Ring Nizpro, speak to simon or Dave and get them to express mail you their high temp inconnel turbo studs and locknuts (4) and metal turbo to manifold gasket....these inconnel studs are resiliant to heat and resist stretching and loosening. For the sake of a day or 2 wait, you wont have to tighten them every 5,000kms...mine havent loosened since installing them 40,000kms ago This is the reason your turbo was loose in the first place, the standard studs, once heat stressed, can loosen withing 1-2,000kms again. only fix is to replace the studs. also helicoil the stripped head thread whilst the mainifold is off, mine had to be removed to do it.

This doesn't affect me directly as I live in Vic, but please everyone, sign the petition... These thick as sh*t brick pollies will only sway their decision if they see the masses speak, which affects their bottom line....before we know it this will be a nation wide policy. Rather than police all the sh*t boxes on the road, they target car enthusiasts who are passionate and care for their vehicles....pisses me off how many crap heaps I pass each day, smoking exhausts, bald tires, no brakes, full of rust...FFS get them off the road, rather than target us to raise revenue. please everyone sign this http://www.thepetitionsite.com/94/help-sav...ied-cars-in-nsw

yeah I wouldnt think your motor is ruined from the description it was more like a slipping...Youd hear all sorts of clunks and bangs if it were bottom end. flex plate loose, torque converter failed/malfunctioning?

BF-FG bottom end approx $2600

faulty coils, and or plugs produce more of a stuttering than surging, surging to me implies lack of fuel or fluctuating supply of fuel or air. Fuel pump, fuel filter, regulator, injectors, actuator - solenoid, sticking wastegate etc would be at the top of my list before ripping the turbo off, Did you remove the turbo inlet pipe and feel the turbine for smooth rotation, and evidence of turbine scraping housing / excessive play before taking it off?

Woah! The turbo's can be heard spinning down on all Xr6T's especially if they weren't up to full operating temp, and unless its a full on grinding / screeching sound, its totally normal. Your surging issue could be many things, and not likely the turbo itself: I'd be looking at the following before pulling the turbo off: Lazy Wastegate actuator (weak spring) Blocked solenoid line to actuator Torque table issues (I recall there was an update for standard cars with surging issues) Unless you are hearing metal on metal sounds, or have excessive play Front to rear or side to side in the compressor wheel, its unlikely to be fragged, (1mm or so play is normal - when cold, as it heats up and expands, and oil lubricates the bearings the play is reduced). The oil feed filter to the turbo is located down behind the main oil filter, its a *beep* to get to, and be careful to not kink the pipe, but I'd be replacing it on a 2nd hand car with unknown service intervals and oil quality, as it gets blocked with carbon deposits and starves the turbo of oil. The oil feed filter is a simple banjo bolt fitting, with a hollowed centre and 4 holes feeding the oil through a tight mesh screen. to replace costs around $60 from ford, and its not worth trying to clean it, as small metal fragments will remain in the screen partially blocking it. Jeez I hope you didn't go too far in stripping it down, without checking some of these things first.

Hey that looks good, my only feedback would be, that the diagonal lines (outer ones) that feed into the scoop openings, should follow the same line as the sweeps in the bonnet, as its a bit jarring to the eye to have another angle. great work, look forward to seeing the finished product