Full Monty

Could be some upright deflection causing some pad offset, as you corner the load going through the studs / rotor causing the disc to sweep the pad a little. Otherwise how old are your calipers, perhaps youve got a sticking piston, not allowing the pad to retract enough. ive got a similar thing at the moment, after some spirited driving through the twisties, and generating some decent heat in the brakes, it starts to swoosh as you let off the brakes and corner.

Royal Purple is great, been using it for 4 years...But its hard to get, and around $95-$100 for 5 ltrs (only one autobarn in melbourne stocks it, and I wont say who coz you buggers will buy it all). But, there is a guy in melbourne, who imports the 1 quart bottles (950ml), a bit cheaper, you just buy a box of a dozen bottles or so at a time, just a pain at a service, as you have to open 7 bottles of the stuff for each fill. I wish it were more readily available.

Like I said, if there was any force / shock etc my alarm would have gone off. just tapping the glass with your knuckle or palm will set off the shock / pressure sensor. I am 99% certain its not from an impact, but more like a tension / stress breakage. I know if a windscreen is installed with too thin a bead of resin / glue, the windscreen can shatter due to stress / not enough give in the joint.

Ill try to take some pics and upload tonight if its still light enough. I looked pretty closely and the fractures are uniform in pattern, with no sign of a starting point

I looked over the whole car, for evidence of an offending rock, scratches on the duco etc...nothing, if it were a rock, there'd be an impact point, like an indent. My car is well off the street, in a carport at my front door, driveway security lights, and a white pebble driveway ensures I would have been alerted, as I can hear their footsteps (unless they were ninja's?). Also the car alarm didn't go off, which it does if even you bang the glass with your hand. (pressure sensor and shock and mercury switch tilt sensor.

Here's a weird one for ya's, between last night when I parked my car at 7pm and when I went to my car to go to work this morning, my rear window has fractured into a million pieces. No impact, no indentation, no sign of a rock etc...The window is completely intact, held together by the tint. I did some spirited driving through some really twisty / cambered roads on the way up to the lake mountain tarmac rally yesterday? my only thought is some slight chassis flexing on those off cambered twisty roads has stressed the window as its a structural member of the car, and the glue resin holding it in didn't have enough give in it to flex. ? But I would have thought it would happen whilst driving? Bizzaro!

Thanks for the quick reply Vixen. Thankfully it was just that, she took it into ford, as they are just around the corner, and luckily she was served by the guy that always looks after me. They had their tech guy check the insides that it was all ok, and they simply changed the battery for $3. Yay a win for once.

Hi Guys, I tried searching on this and came up with nothing. My wife just called me in a tizz, becuase she went to jump in the car at lunchtime and couldnt open it. I'm figuring its simply a low / flat battery in the key remote fob, as her remote has always had low range / signal strength, and you have to press the unlock button quite hard to activate it. Is it a simple open and replace the battery, or does it need reprogramming by ford following the battery replacement? She rang Ford and they said over the phone that they never see the batteries go flat in the BA/BF remotes and that it must have failed, this im not so sure about. Thanks guys, need a quick answer as im sure Fraud will try and sell her a new key remote etc for $150+ Thanks Gav

Hi James, commiserations on the old car, and congrats on the new. just on your comment about the seating height, I sat in the car at the pre launch event, and complained to the design guys that they hadn't improved the seating height on the FG, as it was a big complaint of Tall owners of the BA/BF. To me it still felt you sat too high in the car, and my view was obstructed at the top of the windscreen / mirror etc. Do you reckon they might have done a running design tweak on that? As I was under the impression the F6 seat was unchanged from the BF.

Ohh yeah, 1 more sleep!

Did you consider going the Tein route with the EDFC module, that would have been right up your alley, you can tune to your hearts content, with the push of a button. From soft / comfy highway cruising, to teeth jarring hard, and anywhere in between. I'd love that setup oneday. (maybee on my next car).

Great write up. You definately know your stuff regarding shocks, but I think your asking too much from dampers alone. But wow, you must like understeer! (removed rear bar altogether and added stiffer rate27mm front bar, along with going up in front spring rate). What was done to the rear dampers / spring rates? To re-establish neutral handling? The standard geometry and corner stiffness already provides plenty of Understeer, if you want more neutral handling, try going to a slightly stiffer rear spring, To improve the standard front to rear ratio / corner weight. My understanding is the main tuning needs to be done via spring rates and anti roll bars to get a good even corner weight balance and front to rear distribution of mass. The Dampers need to be adequate to control the spring rebound and control oscillations etc, to maintain tyre contact with the road. The Dampers can effect cars balance during transitional phase, and initial steering input response. By slowing one end of the car over the other during bump / rebound From everything I have read / experienced, Your Dampers aren't going to limit "total body roll" in cornering, I.E under maximum cornering force at the apex of the corner. Their job is to slow, or increase the rate of Yaw and roll, however the car will still reach the same amount of roll under full cornering loads. They can however be used to change cornering transition traits, and initial input response. Changing the fronts to stiffer bump and rebound valving for instance, will increase transitional speeds - during change of direction, by placing more cornering load through the tires at the initiation of a turn (car feels more responsive on initial steering input).

Its pissing down in Forest Hill, FYI

Sorry Guys, I can't make it afterall, my missus has had to go to hospital for a procedure today, and I'll be at home looking after her. Enjoy, and drive safe if it turns out wet. Gav

I should be able to make it, and the meet point is 2 blocks from my house, swoit! Please P.M me any additional info. Current List: Dillz Matty macca2042 mntxr BAXR6BOSS (+5-8 other T's, coming from Northern Suburbs) Subjimbo GR8XR6 R-SPEC + NVYDF6 t6xr ronburgundy mad_rx2 red rocket boosted_XR Rlquik MiKa AXR-Jet PSIFPV YPURV4 slamaa F6 Grandad whistler6 Yoshi Mr Turbo PJDXR6t Barnesy Robos F6 Power Jet TUFGSR straughsberry (+EGOXRT +valve bounce) XRDOSE EvilDaifu Jman *Beep* bunna Venom XR Turbo 6L_ETA BOOSTINXR bfturb paulie2256 arm79 acidxr6 henz NFORCD tonyv PJDXR6t + 4 JRFTTF +? dashturbo toxic beast sasgamo +1 Full Monty

Nice result for the outlay. Are you making that power on standard restrictive cat? if so, im dubious, as the limit is around 280rwkw for std cat. Maybee whack a walbro intank pump for some safety margin

Go Get #@%$%# you $%^*&^! lol Joking I just vented Gather around gentlemen, join hands and let us together enjoy the beauty of song....................."Kumbaya my lord kumbaaaayaaaaa"...... Ohh that feels so much better Now to your question: Yeah what ETM said, 200,000kms + provided it doesnt have a blocked oil supply line / filter and oil is changed every 5-7k kms..Neglect either, and maybee shorten the life to as little as 30-50k

Thanks for the update, good to hear.

Update, following a service at Nizpro on Thursday, They found a couple of boost leaks which we think might have been there since the initial tune. Dave ran the car up on the Dyno, and tweaked the tune and it now makes 312rwkw (10kw gain). Feels stronger and keeps climbing to redline! stoked.

I dont think they are Advan V103's, maybee A or C drives, their mid priced models? still decent tyres though.

I used a $88 repco hose. Nizpro fitted it for me at my last service, and its been sweet for 3 months, touch wood. no signs of weeping. Just an alternative if you dont want to have a go at cutting the fitting off, as If you nic the pipe, you need to replace it.

for $4k, drive it to melbourne, get it booked in at Bayswater Autos, phil will work his magic on it in around a day, and drive it home (nice gentle run in) =) Best part is, you will have $3k minus petrol money in your wallet.... Its a farken long way though, but stuffed if I'd hand over 4.5 k without seeing for myself what they are going to do to the box, and have them warrant it for a "decent power/torque level"

I second the Xforce twin 2.5". Mind you the Y collector is pretty ordinary in some, as in roughly assembled with bad transitions. I use a custom 3.5" section for the first piece following the cat as I have a high flow 5" cat. I really love the sound of my car with this setup, deep, burble at idle, and nice W.O.T note. with no drone

around 2-3 months now, no probs.

They whine due the curvature of the gear mating faces in the planetaries. They all do it, some more than others. My rebuilt box with AU Cryoe'd planetaries did it less than when new with BA ones, but they have gotten slightly louder with k's. Just worry about crunching noises!