Full Monty

Heheheh ok that's 1 for the No!!!! count. without stripes make a difference to your vote? please keep in mind I would be keeping the original bonnet in the shed for easy return to standard.

Hi Guys, Ive been contemplating getting the bonnet on my 04 Turbo resprayed as the factory paint is a little thin and patchey (under bright light you can see the metallic is uneven causing a cloudy effect. I have been quoted $1000 for a front end respray from 2 different reputable panel shops. As my car is lightning strike metallic, the front end basically needs to be done, bar and blend guards..both shops recommended against it, and said im too fussy! lol both bar and guards are in perfect nic, its just the bonnet that bugs me (im pretty anal with paint / panels). I looked into the carbon bonnet route, as a replacement (keep the original for resale) but it seems ADR and vic roads may make it tricky here in melbourne, and I cant afford to keep on getting defect notices as its a daily driver. I was thinking about getting another xr bonnet (perhaps cheaply 2nd hand) or new as I think they are $400 from ford spares and having it sprayed matte black, with or without the narrow stripes near the outer edges.. I dont want the common GT stripe look, but felt this might look alright (think vintage XA GT bonnets) ...also I have aquired a rear GT wing, and was thinking of having this black also to tie it together.... I dont want ricey look, just something different and tough. I'd like some opinions guys thanks

actually that statement is quite untrue...1/10 modified electric is usually faster than equivalent 1/10 nitro at every track we raced at...with speeds in excess of 80kmh on the straights. Electric Tourers have lighter weight, lower c.o.g and instantaneous power and torque. I think the attraction to the nitro cars is the noise, kinda like our knuckle dragging V8 loving friends...lol jk. when Ive rocked up to nitro tracks and taken a few laps with a mixed field, they are always amazed at the lap speed..."but its got no exhaust mate"..lol here is the brake down of costs of my tourer (BTW I was sponsered by a Brittish manufacturer, but these are the full retail shop prices here in oz. Race Chassis = $600 - 800 Electronic Speed Controller= $350 Modified motor, brushed or brushless= $150 Transmitter and receiver Pro level= $500 Steering servo= $150 Battery pack 6 cell NIMH 4200mah= $100 (lipo not yet fully sanctioned for racing) Consumables such as tires= $50 per set (compoetitive for 3-5 timed runs) would often go through 2 sets of tires per meeting, many more at a state or national meet Body shells about $25 plus painting. When I was most competitive, I was ranked 3rd in the country in Modified Electric touring for the 2003 season, this required a fair bit of expense in travelling to various state meetings, and consistently finishing in the top 5. I also won a free trip to Japan to represent Aus at the Tamiya World Championships in 03, all expenses paid with spending money....absolutely awesome, finished 6th overall, after some misfortune in the final race (taken out at the first corner, was placed 3rd outright going into the final race) It got to the point where you could be racing club level go karting for the same money, so I decided to get out, some guys spend insane amounts of money to gain a competitive edge, with the top few drivers separated by just a couple of seconds after a 5 minute heat, tires, motors and batteries are crucial.

Cool stuff, I have just quit racing R/C after about 8 years of competition, I raced 1/10th scale electric Modified Touring cars. Started out as just a weekend hobby, quickly turned serious. Travelling interstate for State and National meetings. Its gets pretty pricey at the upper levels, but seriously great fun.

Oi!, I grew up in sale...Moved to melbourne as quick as I could at age 16...lol Maffra is a 15 minute drive from Sale, sounds like a combined club meet.

thanks for the reply's fellas, good to hear I'm not alone. Most of my height is in my torso (my missus reckons I have an extra vertebrae..lol I have found having the seat base slider adjusted a little closer to the wheel, and tilting the backrest back a little "habib stylez" helps. although I find my head is directly next to the pillar which creates a bit of a blind spot when changing lanes etc, checking over right shoulder. Buying a spare seat base from the wreckers or off ebay is a good idea. cut / shunting the rails, putting back together....if done well by a fabricator, would be hard to detect...and you can reinstall the original seat when selling. I might enquire at FTG how much a leather XR drivers seat goes for. Speaking of small cars and big guys..My father inlaw races an MR2 GTS turbo...I really want to be able to race with him, but I dont fit in it once I put a helmet on!....the full roll cage doesnt help!... Cheers Guys.

Hi Lads, as the title suggests, im a big Unit, 6'5" and 110kg. Something which is starting to bother me is the height of the leather seats at their lowest adjustment in my BA turbo. I'd love to be able to drop them a further couple of inches. It wasnt something I noticed at first, but over time its starting to get to me. The headroom is fantastic, but I feel like I am looking past the Sun visor, rather than well below it, which is compromising visability a little. anyone discovered a way to get them lower, using other models seat rails, modding etc? I have sat in a friends BA turbo with standard cloth seats, and they are noticably lower...Less padding, bolstering I suspect. Cheers for any input. Gav

Where can I get some of those DBA rotors in that diagram, theyre friggin humongous!

Traction Tyres in Rowville Victoria quoted around $390 per tyre for 18's. they are a Yokohama dealer. I guess they can offer better prices due to the quantities they sell.