Full Monty

I dont know why people still say strengthening 4 speed auto's a necessity at around 300 rwkw. There are no magic parts to make these bullit proof., if you want to piss away 2.5 - 3 grand...go right ahead. (most people that spent this have still had failures). there isnt really anything that can be done, most of the "strengthening" is done via the custom edit, adjustments to shift speeds, clamping forces and fluid pressures. Serrated C1 clutchpack plates, new high energy band, and cryo treated planetary gears (with maybee a tweak to the s5 solenoid) is all that really needs to be done. Even Nizpro just rebuild to factory spec, just paying particular attention to tolerances. Just budget for an annual freshen up (maybee new band and fluid change). above 350rwkw is really pushing it on these boxes, but the biggest killer of boxes is high torque and high grip.

Just a tip, its south of Sydney. (Canberra)

IMAGINE THE DRIVELINE SHUNT IN THAT FARKER!

it is around $800-$900 fitted at ford. (as I was quoted twice) I went aftermarket, and had a local mechanic fit it for $400 cash. I would get the backlash checked on your CV joints, as per Mal woods advice thread. if it isnt this, check the diff bush whilst the car is on the hoist.

all that work for an astra?

Reading Mal Woods advise, 90% of the driveline shunt is caused by sloppy CV joints. I'd look at the AADI brand replacement CV's and see if they have any backlash from new (see if you can check a pair out at a bursons) I have a clunk, as do 90% of BA owners, especially with custom tunes and firmer shifts, aftermarket firmer diff bush, its inevitable.

Probably the combustion process? or even you got's the fully sik Uleh dose action going on! sorry nothing to add really, hard to diagnose these types of things over teh interwebs.

So which did you buy?

Highly recommend John at PDRTEK in Melbourne. very professional (see thread above for full report). Gav

Great vids Danny, good to have an understanding of all this stuff for when it eventually goes wrong. Phil's a great guy to deal with, he went through everything with me (as Im a stickler for tech / details) Gav

Mine is the same Hanra, over the course of around 4-5 months, there was a fine film of dusty oil on the lower radiator hose, alt, and a little on the front of the block, cleaned up in 2 minutes with some degreaser and a rag. If it gets worse I will be doing the fix.

Very common, I was told the oring perishes premeturely due to the fittings close proximity to the turbo / exhaust manifold. Mine weeps a little, a mate had his replaced recently, $250 for the hose, and $150 in labour! I dont know if you can just get the o-ring? and Pirtek didnt know anything about it when he enquired

You mean it has less "rolling resistance" than before?, I.e the car seems to coast off throttle, where it used to engine brake immediately upon releasing the accelerator. No idea why this would have occurred.

BA Typhoon had the thicker LPG rods over the standard xr6T, until May 2006 where the BF engine was upgraded to be the same (only the tune map differs)

ahh one of my specialities The original Dawn of the Dead freaked me out when I was a kid. The Shining The Exorcist Texas Chainsaw Massacre (original) Blair Witch (suspenseful) Evil Dead The Ring (end is pretty freaky) Seven jaws The Thing Halloween series Saw (1) for its great ending Event Horizon hellraiser!

Awesome times ahead, finally get to see Meshuggah! (I signed an online petition to get them to tour Aus around 8 years ago!) Ive got Opeth, then going to Japan for 2.5 weeks, return in time for Meshuggah, then shortly after have Machine Head and Slipknot.

I heard there was a Tool Ford had created for easier removal of the bush, otherwise the cradle must be dropped, the bush is in a metal sleeve which is friction fitted into the rear cradle / mount. Speak to ford about said tool, and if it allows them to leave the rear end in the car. Otherwise, with the cradle removed the bush can be pressed out with some force, (hammer) and cutting of the metal sleeve to reduce the tightness of the fit. The aftermarket polyurethane bushes could theoretically be removed whilst the cradle is in place, as they dont have the metal sleeve, but a hole would have to be drilled in the spare wheel tub to gain access for the socket / bolt as it comes out. (this could be resealed with a grommet).

Dont go spending a fortune "strengthening a 4speed" there isnt much that can be done mechanically to strengthen them. all these so called toughened boxes still have the same weaknesses. Just a rebuild / freshen up, paying attention to correct tolerances, install Cryo treated planetaries and high friction bands / serrated forward clutchpacks is all that can really be done. Leave the valve body alone and get the fluid pressures and shifts adjusted in your Custom tune by ones of the guys in the know. install a trans cooler and expect to have it serviced annually if you are running big power. Speak to the guys at bayswater autos, they are genuine honest guys, my box was done in January and I expect to just have it looked over in Jan next year, fluid flush, inspect bands etc.

but twin turboing an Bogan special is ok? lolz

Really sorry to see this, and the media beat up that has followed. Nothing has been proven, an accident with this result could have occured at 60 kph on a wet road. The news paper headlines were pretty damning, but it is their job to beat up and speculate. This is a big wake up call to everyone with high powered cars, Im sure every one on this forum has enjoyed their cars power at one time or another on a public road. (I didnt say speeding or racing), but a car with the potential of a modified T can get out of shape pretty quickly under certain circumstances. (I.e wet road, inexperience etc) Best wishes to those involved, glad no-one was injured.

Firstly, everyone needs to factor in the cost of getting a CAMS 2S license which is currently $95 the XR/FPV club of victoria track days cost around $100, so somewhere around that price would be a good starting point, but of course it would depend on numbers.

The diff bush looks all new to me, when I saw the updated bush a while ago it was completely solid, with a scalloped inner section. This looks like its has completely hollow bits, to prevent NVH I guess? I would have thought ford would pay particular attention to this area, being such a problem on the XR - FPV range on the BA - BF

is it EPA approved and compliant? The Metal Cat brand as far as I know is the only hi flo cat that is stamped with the EPA approved code. happy to be corrected if there is another brand available now.

thanks guys had a good night, good to put some faces to names Gav

I'm keen to head out later tonight if the weather holds out. someone please P.M me the meeting spot and time.