Stardate

Had my 2003 BA T out tonight. Gave it a bit of a hard time. Left it idling for about 5 minutes then went for another Drive. Every time I accelerated hard, and the turbo started to wind up with the motor at about 4000rpm the throttle fault light came on, motor stopped. Turn key off, back on again, started ok ran ok and throttle fault light off. Ran perfectly ok until pushed it hard again, and it gave a repeat performance. Any ideas.

Just been into the local Ford shop to get a new hose, of which they can't understand their parts list @#$&* Local rep saw the hose and made the comment "that's normal for those, especially when you start to thrash them" hmmmm I had pushed it but not thrashed, just an interesting comment though.

In respect of the temp sensing on the back of the head, yes that would be more effective means of measuring temp but the parts of an engine that are the hotspots ie, around exhaust valves and cylinder liners where the water is in direct contact with them, so if they lose that water to keep them cool then the rise in temperature to the senser will be delayed by the thermal inertia and mass of the aluminium. Itakes a finite time for the material to heat up and that heat to travel to the sensor. Also you say the sensor is at the back of the head. What about the distance from number1 cylinder/valves to the sensor. As for the condition of my hoses, from the outside they look perfect, from the inside they look perfect apart from the splits that have appeared. The failure was not a crack but a burst hose. The rubber of the hose is in good condition, no cracks, no perising, nothing. But after inspecting it very closely the reinforcing fibres that are embedded in the rubber appear to have failed and it wasn't until the cooling system got up to operating pressure that the hose blew up like a balloon and burst. The only way to have inspected this hose for this type of fault would of been to have cut it up!!!!!

Yes the ECU is smart enough to shutdown the engine etc, but the medium for removing heat from the engine head and block internals is water and the ECU measures the water temp. So if you have a major lose of water like a burst hose where all the water is removed in less than 15seconds then the ECU surely has no way of measuring the temp apart from the thermal conductivity of the metal and by the time that happens the temperature around the cylinder sleeves and around the exhaust valves has already reached extremes.

I've just had a top heater hose blow on my T. Only done 70,000ks. Any one else had this problem or is there a fault with hoses and/or over pressure in the cooling system. Its burst out one side (about 50mm split) and has multiple cracks around the inside. I was lucky that I pulled up at an intersection and saw steam from under the bonnet. If I'd been on the open road sure it would of cooked the motor.

Hi Matt The LEDs(blue) are RS code 4663885 and the Resistors are code 4219163. Cost me NZ$91.00 all up but it worth it. Got to buy the LEDs in packs of 10 unfortunatly so end up with 6 left over. And the resistors are in 50s but they cheap. Mike

Just done my switches, they look excellent in the blue. Easy to do. Longest part of the job was waiting for the courier to deliver the LEDs from RS components

My 2003 XR6T Brake System malfunction warning light comes on dimly whenever the wipers are on. If the wipers are on intermittant wipe then the light flashes on dimly with every sweep of the wiper. Its not noticeable during daylight but at night its like a beacon saying "help me" Any ideas on what would cause this problem???

If its about FOD (Foreign Object Debris) going into the turbo then, having the inside of the intake chromed is just asking for trouble in my opinion. Chrome is a hard metal applied by electroplating to a parent metal. Unless this is 150% there is always a chance for that chrome to flake and find its way into the blades. If paint can do damage then chrome is sure to!!!. Just my opinion

I'm a newbie to this site and am in the process of buying/trying to buy an secondhand XR6T. After reading about these turbo failures I'm beginning to worry. What sort of km's and mods have been done to the cars that are having failures. The last thing I want or need after out laying for a car is to then have to pay for another turbo.