FORDTECH

You have to remove the 2 outer seat base trims first.(Not the trim that's screwed to to seat base itself)You remove them by pushing them forward or backward.This will also expose a couple of electrical connectors.If you see them then you know you've removed the right part.Once the seat base trims are out of the way the trim that goes along the sill will push in towards the seat a lot further.Dont forget that you'll have to remove the bottom seat belt retaining bolt in order to completely remove the trim.

:banghead: Goin on Sat'dy.Dont think a 300k race on Sun'dy around Winton would be that good.Goin to watch practice,qualifying and top 10 shoot out on Sat'dy instead.

This would be a major concern.Specially if she started the journey in the front seat. All jokes aside

My premium sound does play MP3's..............................................through my REX.

No. They're only held on with clips.The trim that you are refering to is the one attached to the actual seat base and you dont have to remove that one.The 2 peice trim below that is the one I mean.

I'm more interested in where the fuel tank will be and what type of rear end will be in it.Current legislation states that the fuel cell be mounted forward of the rear axle and it wont fit while they still have the VW rear end.

Rednut,Just be carefull when removing the seat base trims.The retaining spring clips break off very easily.(from experience).

that's it. I'm comin to your house for a ride.I've got a huge grin just reading this.

I think they were running low on phantom at the factory and just added some dirt to the vat.

If it's grunt you want then there's a wealth of info here. Details of your ride would be good as well

It stated in last weeks Cars section of the Herald Sun that the VZ Late model camira would use the 4 speed auto out of the BA.

There is a TSB regarding this issue which outlines a quite extensive test and repair procedure.If you have bad reception then see your dealer.All the other guys are right,It's not normal.The TSB number to quote to your dealer is TSB 39/04. Hope this helps

KEN, There is no stipulation in the TSB that says they wont replace them free of charge(irrespective of milage).I assume they will because of them stating that only dis-satisfied customers can have them fitted. From all reports that I've heard from the testing is that they actually perform better than the original pads. As for the dust,I havent heard anything in regards to this.When they test these things I dont think the dust is a high priority.As long as they work they're happy.

If you look directly above the accelerator pedal the connector should be taped to the existing wiring behind the fuse box.There should be 2 connectors.The blue connector is your 2 powers,1 earth and a mute wire.The clear connector is for connecting the phone speaker wires so it runs through the audio system.If they've used the power wires for a trailer brake system they would only use the yellow/black for the constant 12v.You can still use the same wire all you have to do is find the others. Colour codes are: Yellow/Black=12v constant, Black/Yellow=12v switched(Accessory), Black= earth, Turquoise(Greeny colour)= Phone mute.

A TSB has been released today regarding the fix for the preminum brake squealing problem that a lot of forum members are suffering from.It requires the replacing of the front pads with a new level pad that is now being fitted in production from 30/06/04.Dealers have been given specific instructions to only replace them on vehicles where the customer is dis-satisfied with the problem of the brakes being noisy(Apparently some customers like the noise.) Cheers

Glad to hear that mine isn't the only one that does it.There is a fix for it that was covered on a dealer Tech Talk program about a month ago so if your dealer watches the broadcasts like they're supposed to then they would know. It involves locating the REX wiring connectors behind the fuse panel and modifying the wiring.Havent had a chance to do mine yet so I cant confirm whether or not it works(There's just not enough hours in a day)(Plus I have alot of trouble getting the car back off SWMBO) Bottom line is that if your dealer doesnt know about the modification tell them to contact the Tech Hotline and I'm sure the guys there will help them. Hope this helps

You do have to remove the Aluminium intake assy to gain access to the plastic coil retainer/cover.Once you have removed these items be careful when removing the coils.When you go to pull them out remember not to lever them out on the ends where the connector plugs in as they break quite easy.Once you have all 6 coils out you will find that number 1 to 5 are easy to remove.Enjoy yourselves when trying to remove number 6.Once you've figured out a way to remove it and need to refit it a handy trick is to either use a peice of vacuum hose(about 6" long) or a conventional type spark plug lead.Push the plug into the vacuum hose (or spark plug lead) and lower the plug into the hole.Then simply twist the hose/lead until the plug wont do up any further.Pull the hose/lead off the plug and tighten using a plug socket and ratchet. Also when refitting the plastic coil cover make sure that the little rubber caps on the underside of the cover are all there as they help hold the coils on the plugs.

Is there any truth to the rumour that Peter and the boys from APS were seen in the Stone Bros garage carrying a "plug in loom and Unichip"?? C'mon Pete,you can tell us. But seriously guys if it were HRT the AVESCO boys would be saying'Hang on a minute Mark I'll just tuck those wires up there for you so no one will see them".

Aaron, If you had your service recently then there is a good chance that the dealer could have checked them.This procedure to find out the root of the problem is still in it's infancy and maybe they're just clutching at straws.They have however had a high sucess rate by carrying out this procedure,but obviously (judging by the posts here) it's not fixing all of them.At least they're acknowledging that they have an issue(even if they havent made it public)and are working on a more definate fix.Unfortunately as WhiteTee has said this is far from over and it's not going away. One thing that everyone that is experiancing this sort of problem can do to influence a hasty solution is found is to make sure that the dealer you are using is submiting this kind of complaint through the dealer EDSR system(Electronic Dealer Service Reporting).When an issue is submitted as an EDSR they are reveiwed with the utmost urgency.The more cases that are reported the more urgent the issue becomes.Unfortunately most dealers dont report these things and the end result is what you are all experiencing(Lack of resolution).

Just read that.

"A points and monetary fine has been issued against the #1 car. The team has officially lodged an appeal against the decision. A press release and full details are expected at some stage tomorrow. This is direct from V8 Central as posted on Conrod.com.au

Most of you guy's have a good idea of what is happening to your cars so I thought I'd better "enlighten" everyone to the way FCSD engineers are handling the problem. What they are saying it is is that the vehicles are going into an "overboost" situation where the PCM(Powertrain Control Module) detects a "missfire" in the engine and overcompesates for the sudden drop in engine performance by momentarily increasing the boost pressure(as high as 9psi).Then it detects that the missfire has gone and the system logs an overboost code and goes into limited operation or forced throttle shutdown.This can happen under light throttle or heavy throttle aplications.This is why it's such a wide spread problem. "What are they doing to fix this",I hear you all say. Well funnily enough the fix that they have had a high success rate with is quite simple.They are asking dealers with effected vehicles to remove and regap the spark plugs from the factory gap of 1.1mm to .9mm.They are also asking the dealers to make sure that they are fitted with the correct spark plugs as well.Just in case you want to know the genuine plugs should be: AGSP22Z11 They also say that after market "pod" style air filters cause these vehicles to log overboost situations as well.(Dont ask me to explain that one. I have NFI) Hope this helps.

My only suggestion is that if you have a Turbo ute they are fitted standard with a Limited Slip Diff so you cant have traction control anyway.So save your money.

BA_Turbs, You're half right.All ABS bystems fitted to BA's are 3 channel unless they have traction control.Traction control equiped vehicles use the 4 channel system.

beauies, The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is the same for a Turbo sedan and Turbo ute.The only difference is manual or auto.If it's the Traction control that you are after then the TCS(Traction Control System) is incorporated in the ABS unit.The ABS unit has the addition of a priming valve and a switching valve to allow the brake pressure at the rear wheels to be applied independantly of each other and of the driver. Now if you wanted to add it to your vehicle(but I'm not 100% sure if this)you would have to change the ABS unit,enable Traction Control in the IC(Instrument Cluster Module)for the warning light and add the switch to the spare hole under your foglight/accessory light/driving light ,or whatever you call them, switch. Hope this helps