FORDTECH

The injected LPG systems that are around at the moment are all vapour injection and effectively wouldn't work on a turbo charged engine due to the inlet manifold pressures that they have.Most lpg systems introduce the vapour at the air intake(or air cleaner side) of the throttle body so they rely on inlet vacuum to draw the vapour in.So on a turbo it would have to be introduced in the suction side.So effectively your intercooler, piping and intake tubes are filled with volatile air.With the vapour injection the lpg vapour is introduced as close to the inlet valves/ports as possible.Now these systems are low pressure and still rely in some ways on negative manifold pressure(vacuum)to help draw the vapour into the engine.The LPG injection systems that we fit run 1bar(14psi)vapour pressure which isnt very high.So if your turbo is pumping 14psi of boost into the intake manifold then the gas isn't going to flow all that well is it.I am sure there are ways around this but havent heard of anyone with an injected system that does or even if anyone is researching a kit for the turbo's.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}> Oil Temp vs Oil Pressure? One for the dash and one for the ECU/BCM? Lumpy <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Lumpy's right.The only hassle you may have if it's the oil temp sensor is that the PCM relies on knowing what the oil temp is to operate the phasers for your variable cam timing.Worse thing you can expect is the phasers will remain locked at thier base position and you'll be down on power(no camshaft advance).Of course if it the oil pressure switch then if you leave it unplugged the oil light will stay on. Hope this helps FORDTECH

Just remember,you said that, not me. The 2 T56's that I fitted last week (Direct from Ford) the first one was empty and the second was filled to 1 inch below the reverse light switch. I never said they leak from the breather.It's probably pretty hard considering the breather on the box is fitted with a breather tube that runs all the way to the back of the engine and is secured by the top bellhousing bolt. HAZEY, Sorry about the thread hijack. I was only trying to help.

Go on, I dare you. Hope you like cleaning oil off your car though. I gotta hear this. Why? Ben. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> In the early testing of the 6spd trans there were certain problems(and that's all I will say) with them that were alleviated by differing the level of fluid in them.Hence the V8 6spd takes 3.8 ltr's of "DEXRON III"and the I6 6spd takes 4.8ltr's.Once filled with the newly specified amount and you remove what was the original fill plug you would find that the level is higher than this point and the fluid pours out.By overfilling them till the fluid runs out of the "revised" fill point(Removing the reverse light switch) you then create problems like poor shift quality(hard to select gears) and the excess fluid actually "Leaks" from the shift housing. How do I know this? Well when said vehicles are presented at our dealership with "Irate" manual Turbo and Typhoon owners who have taken it upon themselves,because they know better than the manufacturer,to change thier transmission oil and it induces the above problems because they either have not enough or too much oil in them,that pretty much boils down to personal experience to me. But hey,it's your car,do as you want.Im just trying to help you avoid any hassles. FORDTECH

Go on, I dare you. Hope you like cleaning oil off your car though.

SSSSSSSHHHHHHHH........Ian.You know what happens when you mention his name. Oh,and welcome.

Just bring her along Jack.The more the merrier.

I think that the trans itself being basically a heap of clutch packs and variable pressure solenoids it's only a matter of time before someone brings out the tough as nails go fast bit's.And I'm sure the tuners shouldn't have too much of a problem tweaking the TCM(Transmission Control Module).We've seen a heap of good results with edit on the factory PCM so it will be just a matter of time. As far as the standard trans taking high power input,I've seen a few of these trans apart and they look pretty tough in standard form but it's not the Kw's you have to worry about,it's the torque that your going to put through it that may pose the problem.The same reason the Typhoon uses a twin plate clutch as opposed to the single plate in the standard T's.

Just checking to make sure that you guys are filling the trans properly.You do realize that you fill them through the reverse light switch and not the fill point on the LHS of the trans.Also you only fill the I6 T56 till it's 25mm below the fill point.If you already knew this then you are well informed.If not,hope this helps.

Come on guy's stop beating around the bush,lets all meet at Kittens and just stay there.

xlnt6, The genuine one is approx $154 retail.If you know anybody in the trade or that works at a dealership then you may get one cheaper.Kit comes with new bolts as well and they're not that hard to replace.

The Variable Cam Timing doesn't work until the engine reaches a set temperature.Hence the OCV's aren't actually working until then.

The only reason they aren't that easy to clean is that the cleaning procedure requires you to actually power the OCV's up with a 12v pulse(like an injector).But they actually operate in 2 directions so you have to reverse the wires and operate it the other way as well.They are also not as robust as an injector and if you stop pulsing the power and leave them powered up constantly it "WILL" destroy them.I emphasize the "WILL DESTROY" them.Not "might" destroy them.But if you feel you're up to the task then may the force be with you. Whatever decision you make,good luck. FORDTECH.

Yeh right.You sure it hasn't been modified?If I find you've got an edit in the body electronics module to make your door actuators faster then you'll be in trouble. Seriously though Craig,when you've pushed the knob down you have more than likely damaged the plastic gears in the actuator.Unfortunately the actuator is a non repairable part and will require replacement.Sorry dude. Are you sure you haven't lightened the gears in the actuator and made them weaker???

I tend to agree with most guys that the tacho simply doesnt respond quick enough in 1st gear to give you a true reading.(4.17:1 is pretty low ratio compared to 2.34:1 in 2nd gear). As for the Rev limiter,the 6speed auto has the same limit as the other models when it is in normal mode.However when you use it in Sequential Sports Shift(Manual) Mode it has what is called Transient Engine Overspeed Limiter.This allows the engine to rev up to 6200rpm for 1 second before slowly lowering the engine speed back to the 6000rpm continuous limit.Of course the harder you hit the limiter the harsher it is going to feel.

Pumped81, Firstly if your car is still covered by the 3year/100,000km warranty then you can have it looked at and repaired at "ANY" Ford dealer in the country. Code P1340 indicates there is either a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor CID2(I6 Exh camshaft) sensor circuit or sensor coherency(a difference in both cam sensor readings).This is more than likely a direct result of the other codes that have been logged. Code P1381 & P1386 indicates both camshafts are over advancing.This can be caused by the one of the OCV's(Oil Control Valve) going into fully closed position.The other camshaft then has to play "catch up" so to speak and hence the 2 codes.Now if you go back to the first code (P1340) it is a pretty safe bet to say that it's the Exhaust Cam OCV that is the problem.There is a good chance that it will only require cleaning and,to be honest,unless you are mechanically minded and able it's not the sort of thing you should take on. It could also be the wiring to the OCV's has shorted to earth and is holding one of the OCV's closed.This is reasonably simple to check.Just remove the air intake off the top of the engine and remove the black plastic coil cover off the rocker cover.Have seen a couple short out the wires on the raised mounting point at the front end of the rocker cover.(see attached pic) To be honest,if it's under warranty get the dealer to do it. Hope this helps FORDTECH

Nathan,do a search of the forum and type subwoofer in the search field.The subject has been covered quite extensively and there's sh*tloads of good info about it here.

Yes it can be done and yes you have to get the unichip retuned to suit the new base calibrations. Cheers.

If your dealer is putting Magnatec in your T then they are putting the wrong oil in it.Most dealerships have bulk oil containers(3000ltr+) in size and the bulk magnatec is a different viscosity to the Magnatec you buy in 5ltr containers. The dealers use Magnatec FMX (10W30) and FMX (15W40).The later one being the right one. The Magnatec FMX you buy at the auto shops is 10W40.

To assess the damage properly you should remove the engine.Yes you can remove the sump off the engine by removing the front end from under it but if you need to replace the bearings or anything else internally you can't remove the crankshaft that easy.All the extra time involved in removing the additional parts to facilitate crank removal in situ sort of defeats the purpose.

I'll lay odds on that it needs a new combination switch assy(indicator/wiper switches).

With the torque these guys are making I reckon it would probably lunch itself on the start line.

If it's a MKII it will already have the right hose on it.

Yes, BUT, the system isn't built around the tyres. They have simply picked a value of deflection that will work with most tyres, even ones with stiff side walls or ones that feel like driving on soggy weet-bix.... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The system isn't built around the tyres but it is calibrated for them.And these parameters cannot be modified.You can reset tyre sizes in the PCM to whatever you like but you can't "Reflash" the ABS unit because it's a safety item.Hence they are calibrated to suit the tyres fitted at factory and any change in these(mainly profile height) will adversely affect the operation of the DSC. Needless to say this won't stop people putting different wheels on their vehicles.All I'm saying is that it "will" affect the DSC system.

DSC is controlled by the ABS unit and it does care if you are running pizza cutter tyres.The system is calibrated to allow for side wall deflection of the tyres when calculating the amount of intervention required to control the vehicle.