FORDTECH

PaulM, If that was the case all you do is disconnect the battery for about 2 minutes then take it for a flog and show it who's boss.But to answer your question correctly,you would just drive it as you see fit for about 16 - 20km and from then on it will monitor your driving style and make subtle little changes from then on.

Sorry NTTURBO I was unaware of the owners handbook stating this.I spend more time reading workshop manuals than owners handbooks(That's the sales staff job) but it's strange that all the replacement genuine Ford batteries that I have fitted carry a 24mth warranty and the original fit doesnt.Im pretty sure that the factory fit batteries I have removed from vehicles have a label stuck to them stating that they have a 24mth warranty.Will have to check that(just happen to have a sh@tload of em kicking around at work). Funny thing is that the factory fit battery is rated at 430CCA and the replacement one listed through Ford spares is 520CCA.(I smell some more cost cutting).

Well I must say I havent had such a good laugh in a long time.I dont know who the GT owner was but im afraid he/she has been extremely missinformed.The PCM in these vehicles doesnt care if it has done 10km or 10,000km and there is no hidden agenda programmed into them for such a thing.They do however adapt themselves to your driving style.It sounds to me that your car is getting use to your driving style.Enjoy.

Dont you mean standard B.B.B.B.B.B.B.R.R.R.R.R.A.A.A.A.A.A.K.K.K.K.E.E.E.E.E.S.S.S.S.S.....

Yes you should be able to start the vehicle with the bonnet open because theoretically you have to open the car before you open the bonnet so the alarm would be disabled anyway.However I would disconnect the shock sensor and try that to see if it may be the problem. Reagrding your battery,there is a 24 month warranty on it so just visit your dealer for a replacement free of charge(you dont mind replacing them so often when they're free)

From memory of the BA training days I think the insides of the XR8/GT auto fits inside the "T" auto casing.May not be the best option but it's something to think about.Also when the training was taking place they were still having trouble with the XR8/GT auto's.

This problem has come to my attention at the dealership where I work quite often so I investigated it a bit further and found that when the vehicles were being serviced and the park brake needed adjusting the tech's were adjusting them incorectly.All they were doing was removing the rear wheels and screwing the adjusters out until the hub starts to bind and then reassembling them.So what I did was referenced the correct adjusting procedure from the workshop manual and found that there is a rather complex procedure that you have to go through to adjust them properly.Then we started adjusting them as per the correct procedure and havent had any trouble since. Also guys,if anybody knows how to seperate pages from a PDF(Acrobat Reader)document please let me know and I can post the procedure for everyone.

She also said that too.. Oh and Welcome.Anything you need to know,just ask.

Is that the full technical name as listed in the handbook? It's covered in the Thingamyjig section of the owners handbook. You would also need the heater assy from the same vehicle because of the Dual Zone heater/air cond as it has the additional vent control motor on the RHS of the heater unit.You dont need the BEM as it doesnt control any of the heater functions.All that is done by the HIM(HVAC Integrated Module)which your own module can be reconfigured to suit the dual zone so you dont need to replace that either. The only thing I'm not quite certain about is if the wiring connector is there for the additional zone motor on the heater unit if the vehicle has low level wiring looms.I'll have to check up on that.

Low series BEM's (Light Blue casing) are fitted to all BA models except Fairmont/Fairmont Ghia/Fairlane/LTD and I think GT-P(Have to check on that one).The high end vehicles listed above are fitted with the HI series BEM(Cream coloured casing).The only other different BEM is for the Genuine Ford alarm (Black casing) and can be fitted to any of the BA range.The main difference in the BEM's is mainly all the extra do da's that the high end vehicles have.

The bolts that you are refering to CANNOT be removed.They are actually studs fitted to the front crossmember and then welded in to prevent them from coming out.There is a known fix for this problem(TSB 51/03) which requires the steering rack to be removed and a 2mm wide shamfer be cut in the inner mounting surface of the rack. If your dealer told you that they removed these "bolts" then inform them that you would like a new front crossmember as the damage done when removing the actual studs is not repairable.

physh, There was a TSB released addressing this problem on the early built BA's(before Jan 03)(TSB13R/03).It involves the cable getting stuck on a weld nut on the inner door panel when almost in the fully closed position or fully opened posi. There were 2 fixes for this.The first was to drill a hole along side the weld nut and secure the window cable with a nylon tie, or fit a bolt to the weld nut that was long enough to stop the cable from actually getting stuck on it. Good to see that it was fixed properly though.

Ok guys heres the dirt.You can fit the premium ICC to any BA. Because its a complete assy all the functions work as normal.However the speaker configuration is not compatable if you fit it in place of a standard unit.The additional wiring for the sub amp isnt there and neither is the wiring for the windscreen pillar mounted tweaters(The vehicles have 2 levels of wiring(HI & LOW).Although I'm sure if you sat down with a complete wiring diagram you could soon fit the missing wiring to the main ICC connector. The BEM doesnt have to be replaced with a different one. All you do is simply attach your original BEM to the base of the ICC and therefore there is no need to have to retrain the security devices(Such as ignition keys and remotes). You do however have to initialize the ACM (Audio Control Module) so that it communicates with all the other control units in the vehicle.Unfortunately to do this you need a WDS unit.

Hot off the press guys.There are new calibrations becoming available possibly by christmas or not long after.We're waiting for them to be verified and then despatched to the dealers.Unfortunately the verification isn't the fastest procedure in the world.But Ford are aware of the problem and have produced a fix for it.I will try and let you all know what the actual problem is or was as soon as I recieve that info.

It's ok mattB it's only something they are toying with at the moment.Looks like it may be too expensive a system to have on all vehicles.May be reserved for the High end vehicles(LTD & Fairlane) similar to what Holden(oops,can I say that word here?)have on there prestige vehicles.

Marty69, Colour,options etc,etc.Everyone here would like to know which team you're going to be on.

Physically stick ya head under the bonnet and have a look for starters. At least make an attempt or even have a guess. But to just say theres no codes logged and be done with it is just too convenient for mechanics and TECHS. New cars shouldn't stall or run rough. Sure theres always going to be the odd one but theres been several reports of these new BA's doing it, so that proves it isn't a 1 off. Actually, why don't we just have a wireless network to every BA, that way you can diagnose every car from the comfort of your airconditioned service office. It's not like the bonnet gets lifted anyway. And look at what??You sound like you seem to know more about these cars than I do.Where would you start??Diagnostic codes are not a convenience they are the first step in a procedure.I am a senior grade motor mechanic and a certified Ford specialist technician.I completed the BA Master technician training and all the associated BA modules and continue to read and study every aspect of these vehicles so that I know them inside and out in the hope that diagnosing them is a lot easier.I have spent up to 16 hours on one particular vehicle trying to fix problems described in this thread.It really isn't that simple.So please dont tell me to "make an attempt or guess".How would you like me to take a "guess" with your vehicle??The only people that will tell you "there are no codes" would be a service advisor and the only reason they would do this is because most advisors are quite capable of using a WDS to check for codes.Bottom line:No Codes=No repair=Non paying job=No productivity bonus. I agree that modern day motor vehicles shouldn't run rough or stall and these are 2 known issue that the engineers at FCSD are working on and I'm one of the lucky techs that has service advisors that allow me to play with these sorts of problems to try and nut out.At this present point in time we are all still trying to overcome this problem so dont assume nothing is being done. As for the wireless diagnostics,well they're already here.It works similar to the Bluetooth mobile phone systems.The only problem for the advisors is they actually have to plug the transmitter/reciever into the diagnostic connector.What you really need is the advanced Tellematics system that Ford are toying with.Then you wont even need to take your car to the dealer.They can simply access you vehicles electronics via sattelite.

NT TURBO, The software to make your alarm give you audible verification has been released for some time now.The only thing is that the audible sound is actually from the cars horn and not the siren like you would think it would. Also the problem you've been having with the alarm going off when you start the car,just wondering if you've had any rain or your cars been wet before or while the alarm is playing up???I have had a couple of cars with a similar problem where water ingress into the bonnet switch makes the alarm think that the bonnet is open. Hope this helps. Also something else to note that you already found out,when the alarm is activated you can still start and drive the vehicle.It's only an audible indicator of unauthorised access to your vehicle and not an immobilizer.That still remains the job of the vehicles PATS(Passive Anti Theft System)

And where would you suggest we start when trying to diagnose the problem??I have been presented with this senario on these vehicles so many times now that I've lost count.If the engine starts and runs rough but we're not there to hear it,then it clears itself and you drive it to the dealer and say"fix this,it starts rough then clears itself",Im open to suggestions.If the problem was bad enough to log any DTC's it gives us a starting point so the diagnostic procedure takes less time.I can assure you that if there are no DTC's then I am more than capable of figuring the problem out without them.

A helpfull hint guys for when your car starts and runs rough.Try and let it run(even as rough as it will)for at least 10 sec's.What this will do is allow the PCM to log DTC's(Diagnostic Trouble Codes)that will enable the tech's at the dealers to identify if its a phaser issue or not. If the engine just cranks and wont fire then there is normally no other option than towing it to your dealer.This problem can be easily identified using WDS and is usually the result of one of the phasers sticking in the full advance position(usually the inlet phaser)

Bad news guys,regarding the Ford approved fix.Machined the first set of rotors today that have already had the machine and shim fix.Looks like it's back to the drawing board.(32k on the speedo)

I dont mean to be picky,but what the hell is a crankcase ventillator and just how do the explosive gasses get into the crankcase?? curious, In my experience with the BA engines I would say that the camshaft drive chain or VCT phasers have gone bye bye,causing severe valve train damage which explains the lack of compression(Lots of bent valves)

You've hit the nail right on the head there Scotty.The SRS system is not designed to discharge in rear end collisions.If it had deployed then the ocupants would probably have sustained serious injuries. One good point though,imagine if the fuel tank was where they use to be.Could have been a decent size barby.

The reason for the different shade in colour is because the engine bays are painted with tinted undercoat,not the normal body paint.

If you have access to a WDS and know how to carry out a PCM reflash with it then your halfway there.I just dont think you will find anyone that knows how to use one will be willing to.