gu4800

Just checked Carsales, and you can get a 2009 plate with very low klms for around $42K drive away. Some of these will have tech pack. I wouldn't worry about the "premium sound" as it is not that premium, and you can get tint, mats and scuff plates later. To be honest, you could probably even get those thrown in for the $42K. Some are in Brisbane too - a couple with less than 100klms for less than $42K driveaway. Do the deal over the phone, fly down and drive back. Sell your Forester later privately. Worst case, sell it for trade value. $54K is way too much and you will lose the better part of $10K driving it out the door. Think of re-sale in just a few years time - the better you buy now, the more flexible yo can afford to be down the track. Just as an example, I bought my Audi TT at 7 months old for an amount substantially under new car price. I have had it for 12 months now and if I decide to sell it I could list it at the cheapest 2008 Audi TT in the country by almost $5K (and half the klms of those $5K more expensive ones) and still be happy with the price. I would even go further and still be happy with the price, but only because I bought well. There is a guy trying to sell his now with slightly lower klms than mine, xenon lights and reverse sensors as the only options, same year for $20K more than what I would expect for mine. He obviously paid too much when he bought - DON'T make the same mistake. Shop around - Carsales lists 147 2009+ XR6 Turbo sedans with Auto trans. That's 147 cars all competing for the same buyer. Cheers Dan

Another for AAMI (although I don't have the car anymore). I had injectors, exhaust, intercooler, airbox and tune - all listed, and no problems. No increase in premium either. Funny thing, they had an XR6, XR6T and Territory all at the SAME premium. I know because I went from a Territory to the XR6T and the premium didn't change, so I looked at a N/A XR6 and it was also the same (online quote system). Cheers Dan

Just out of interest, how much did it go for? Cheers Dan

This comment never makes sense to me. Warranty Period - you mod, something breaks, you pay End of Warranty Period - you mod, something breaks, you pay Whats the difference between doing it now or later? Just own it long enough to give it a hard time and make sure everything holds up. Anyissues, get them fixed, then mod. Why bother waiting for the warranty to run out? When I owned mine, I had an oil leak on the front timing case. Took several visits to get it fixed, but once fixed I modded it straight away. I modded my current car within 1 month of owning - 2008 Audi TT. Cheers Dan

Just ring City Ford - they will confirm the servicing history. They can just look up the VIN or the old rego on the computer. Cheers Dan

Here is a much much better solution for this aspect: 1) snip the factory wires off the plug that goes into the top of the cradle 2) strip enough wire back on the Walbro loom to join two female blade connectors* 3) remove the old female blade connectors from the factory plug with a watch makers screw driver (the old "precision screw driver") 4) insert the new female blade connectors joined to the Walbro loom into factroy plug 5) plug back in to the cradle No solder, no joining. * TIP: remove the old female blade connectors from the factory plug and take them down to Repco. They are not quite a standard female connector (from memory) but Narva make them. Just have a look at the Narva book and you'll find them. Oh, and the MUST have the locking lug on them so that they stay inside the plug. Something like this: Cheers Dan

I hope you don't mean FY09? Unless you actually took delivery before June 30, the tax advantage will be in this year - FY10. And the benefit is good for all the way to 31/12/09 anyway. Not trying to start an argument (as has happened elsewhere) just making sure you are up to speed with the rules. Oh, and welcome to the forums. I don't even own a T anymore and I still hang around! Cheers Dan

How it happened is irrelevant. They should have sufficient supply or be able to produce the part in a reasonable time. We are talking about a car that was "current model" 12 months ago - not a 1970's restorer! I agree with Spin - simply not good enough! Cheers Dan

Go the Dark Argents. They look good on these cars. Silver (from Carsales) Ego (my old BF) Cheers Dan

Maybe if you had something a little rare or ridiculously cheap. Otherwise, you aren't really selling anything that is that good to travel for. No incentive if you can get something just as good locally - something you can actually see. And a BF XR6T is pretty common. Case in point - we bought a new Prado last June and I found one in Sydney (I'm in Brisbane) for $50,490 driveaway. Very cheap. It was still 2008 build but just out of date for the "$180 fixed price servicing for the first 6 services". I think it had to built April or later and this was a February build. The fixed servicing was neither here nor there for me because a mate does all my work, and the best price I got here was $53,500 driveaway. I rang the local dealer who gave the $53,500 as a courtesy and advised that unless he could make it worth my while I was putting a deposit on the one down south over the phone and flying down over the weekend to pick it up. This dealer only had cars with the fixed servicing (it was a Toyota Head Office thing, not a dealer thing). He asked what price I needed to buy off him and I told him $52,000 and it was a deal. He agreed and I bought it that afternoon. So for me, the $1,500 saved me flying to Sydney, driving back and cheaper servicing for the first three years - happy to pay it. BUT my point for you, if he hadn't have budged on the $53,500 I was flying to Sydney - that was my incentive, $3000 saving. So if you are cheaper than most around and you have a car in good nick, people will travel - if not they won't. Sorry for the long story. Cheers Dan

He has simply matched the payout on your car to make the deal look attractive. $29,000 on a BFII with 60 on the clock is retail, so trade is really $23K at best. If you told them you owed nothing on your car, they would have offered $23K on the trade (nothing to match to make you more/less interested) and discounted the new car by the $6K. Then they just hope $23k is fair enough in your eyes. To test them, pick a well priced used car from the lot and see if you still get $29K trade. Or get a price for the T from another dealer with no trade and then see if this current dealer will even come close to that price. In both cases they won't. It all starts with you owing $29K. If they say your car is worth $23K to them, then you are automatically $6K in the hole in your mind. Makes it very difficult for them to sell you anything - you are $6K behind. But if they match your payout in your mind you are even. You then pay close to retail on the new car, so you are OK in your mind but really you are $6K in the hole as the dealer down the road (or even this dealer) would have done the new car for $6K less if you weren't trading. All in the numbers. Cheers Dan

Same date (usually) - and you can go to any Ford dealer. You should be able to ring Ford with your rego or VIN and they can tell you when the warranty expires. Cheers Dan

You must own and run your own business. It is NOT a rebate, but an "investment" deduction - a deduction for investing in your business. Therefore, you can claim 30% of it as tax deduction. For example: Net profit on business (taxable income) $60,000 Tax on taxable income = $12,600 Net income = $47,400 Assume yo purchase the $60,000 car (and MUST be new - not even demo): Net profit on business (taxable income) $60,000 less 30% deduction before June 30 = $18,000 Taxable income after deduction = $42,000 Tax on adjusted income = $7,200 Net income = $52,800 So in this example, your "30% rebate" is actually a $5,400 tax benefit. A long way short of the $18,000 rebate you may think it is. Oh, and you normally get 15% anyway - this is just an increase from 15% to 30% for this year to stimulate spending. Cheers Dan NOTE: Go get your own financial advice!!!!! I am not an accountant.

There was an 06 or 07 Auto Octane BFII in Brisbane that was $27K - from a dealer (meaning you would pay less than that). It had 29,000 klms. With 110,000 klms you would be hard pressed getting $20,000. I would buy an ex-copper with 40K on it before I bought a private car with 110K on it.

Let's be realistic: You WILL get BFI for around $20K You WILL get a BFII for around $23K For your "not more then $30K" you would get a BFI Typhoon (more like just under mid $30K). There is a BF Typhoon for sale on here for $34K - has been for sale since January. Mick's (Strik9) old Silver BFI Typhoon just went for $33K with 34,000 klms, Atomic bottom end, injectors, Nizpro Stage 2 (cooler, piping and plenum), X-Force, actuator, modified flapper, Bilstein shocks and lowered springs, Enkei mags, valve springs - I know, I went and test drove it and $33K was the asking price (I passed - not suited to my needs). Sorry to say, the only people who think a BF T is worth $27K plus are those that currently own them! Not trying to start a fight - I guarantee you I could get you a BF (MkI or MkII) with low klms in auto for under $25K, and find it in a day! Cheers Dan