Rosie

Hey Pat! Spend most of my time looking, not posting these Days. Just keeping an Eye out! - Never too old to learn...

Only in Cams run events such as FOSC Bathurst, Eastern Creek and Wakefield, Drive Bathurst 3 times and 3 trips to the Phillip Island 6 Hour Relay. - Plus various other Track events and Drive Days. The Car has been built as a Daily Drive/Track Car. - Although it has now dramatically changed in appearance and 'may' eventually have to become a Trailer Car. * The real Story here, is I use and recommend Mal Wood Products and have never had cause to complain about the Product, or the after Sales Service. - Mal Wood is one of '4' Suppliers only, I use to keep the Car in working order. Years of bad experiences and Buckets of wasted Money finally got me to this position - And 'earlier' Members of this Forum helped a great deal! Mal Wood for Driveline V-Sport for Brake and Aero fitment CV Performance for Engine build and Tuning Heasman Suspension for Suspension fitment and tuning

All good! I had '14' Clutches in my Car until I went to Mal Wood - All 'big Horsepower' Clutches. I have been using his 'original' Option 5 Twin Plate for the last 7 Years I recently had Mal refurbish my Twin Plate after 88,000km The previous one did over 66,000km It's a BA, (Bought new in November 2002) with a genuine 450 at the Treads and I drive it most Days and take it to the Track at least once a Month. Bathurst, Phillip Isle, Eastern Creek, Wakefield..... Mal toughened the Six Speed when I dropped it in and supplied the Chrome Moloy Tailshaft, Shortshift, Tranny Cooler and Twin Plate. I never have to look at any of this gear

I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Mal Wood and his product

Rob, as you know, I have the KAZ 1.5 Diff. I was told to use the KAZ Diff Oil for the first 1000km and then change to the fully synthetic Castrol SAF-XA Diff Oil. I was also told, very clearly, to change Oil every 3,000km. I have done this and have had no problems!

Had lots of quality Rotors do this! Just jam the biggest and fattest Hats and Rotors in there you can, if you're bashing the Track regularly.

From memory, they are about $60.00 a Cap, from Ford. They are alloy! I scored a set on a set of second hand Rimes and found they don't fit well and rattle when you are mobile. Don't know exactly where they are now. - Rotting in the Shed somewhere! Better off with the plastic one's.

It is indeed! But this time, I think I'll let a few other fellas do the testing first! - I'm sure you know what I mean

Either way, its a 'very' good Car to drive! I got the 2750kg Tow Pack and will be throughly testing it with a trip to Phillip Isle first Week of August. - With the BA on the back! You really can't go wrong with it Brian. I spoke to Herrod a couple of Months ago and they still haven't managed to crack the ECU though.

All good.

Try 'The Gippsland Car Club". They are envolved in organising the 6 Hour and appear to be heavily envolved in Motor Sport. My experience with their Members at Phillip Isle leads me to suspect they are a really good organisation that goes out of it's way to help their Members. - Same goes for all the serious Victorian Car Clubs! If you phone a guy by the name of Greg McIvor, on 0427.748611, he would be best able to recommend a good Car Club. Greg runs a Sports Sedan and filled in for one of our Team Members at last Years 6 Hour.

Any info that would help me would be great [/aquote] Short of doing the observed Drivers test, all you have to do is join a Cams recognised Car Club. Once you get your Car Club Membership, you can go on line to Cams, send them the required detail and apply for a 'Level 2 Speed' Cams Licence. - You might then want to study the various Flags/Lights they use to tell you what is going on during a Race. - Too many people do it this way and don't study the Rule Book Cams will issue you, with your Licence. Once you have this you can enter Super Sprints, Hill Climbs and other Cams santioned events! Bear in mind you will have to pass Scrutinering at each event. - Tyres, Oil and Water leaks, etc. And don't forget to have the best Brakes you can lay your Hands on! - No compromising here.

I fitted AP 'Six' spot Callipers to my Wife's XR6T, with a 320mm Rotor from memory. - On standard Ford 17 inch Rims. I took them off my Car when I wanted to upgrade my Callipers and had to change frtom the 17's to 18 inch Rims for the 362mm Rotors There is a range of AP Six spot Calliper sizes to fit all Rims I 'had' AP Racing 4 spot Callipers, on 300mm Rotors on the back. - On stock 17 inch Rims. So, no problem for AP Six or 4 spot Callipers on 17's!

Just ring V-Sport and have a chat about where you want to go. - Very helpful and not at all pushy. If these Guys can't help you, no one can. They are the AP Guys in Sydney and supply Track,Rally and Street Brakes to all sorts of Cars, incl. mine. My Car is there now.

OOPS! I have never heard of anyone having Warranty issues with the ABS because they upgraded their Brakes. The Bias on Brakes front to back does mean the Fronts work harder than the Back Brakes, but good back Brakes do count. It is up to you to figure out what level you want to go to.

There are any number of options as alternatives. Usually, its the Ford Rotor that creates the shuddering. The alternatives depend on how far you want to go. I can highly recommend 'V- Sport' at Arndell Park. Phone John on 02.96798644 or 0407.012891. Just tell him what level you want to go to.

Exactly right! It could be anyone of a number of things. Get it on a Hoist and have a look... Not a bad start!

It does shorten the throw, but if you try to 'drive it' second to third, you can still miss a Gear. If you just use 'soft Hands', it will find the Gear everytime! Worked wonders at the Track where cornering can effect good Gear changes. It's another good product from Mal Wood.

Spoke to Herrod and they are a way off cracking the Territory ECU, as yet. They are aware of the Throttle problem!

I agree, a very good Car except for this! I'll ask the question, but have never found my local Ford guys very helpful. I will be ringing Herrod today to see where they are at.

I have been trying to avoid the Herrod thing, but looks like I will have to go down that Path when it happens. It's not the end of the World, but it is annoying the way it is. I already have a reasonably quick BA and I bought this, with Towpack, to tow the BA to Tracks like Philip Island, etc. Thanks for the advice on the Territory Boys!

Yep,u got it!

I had the feeling.... Thanks!

Recently purchased a 2011 Territory Diesel. The only thing I don't like about it is it has a significant flat spot from a standing start. I am aware it has Fly by Wire Throttle, but this is what I would call dangerous in the wrong Hands, Has anyone else had the problem and found a definite fix, or is it a combination of the Diesel characteristics and the Throttle setup? - Meaning I'm stuck with it!

Sounds like it could be a number of things, but have a look at the Wires coming off the Throttle Body switch. They tend to 'sag' off the fitting and eventually break! - Very thin Wire. I have had this happen twice, with the same symptoms.