atto666

hahahaahaha, that's the spirit. agree with you and the hate for them

exhaust, tune , cooler , fuel pump and injectors, just the basics(3.73 diff ratio, billet flywheel, brass button) doesnt really punch the numbers but it gets the missus and the kids from a to b. what a friggin weekend. 2 full afternoons of torture, still got a few odds and ends to do. but its running sweet as a nut, thank goodness yes, I am a ford mechanic. no I will not be doing this again in a hurry.

got a complete block sitting next to my car ready to go in this saturday, late model territory turbo block, should be right.

Well, it probably was inevitable really. The enthusiasm of my right foot, finally, has bit my arse. After 6 months of enduring an intermittant missfire on low rpm, it started to develop into an even worse missfire on light throttle after a quick blast of throttle, but never missfired while I was on the gas pedal though. I went through 3 sets of plugs, and through a set of coils in for the hell of it in ther at some point too, but the miss never stopped. Then, water started disappearing. at first not much, then over the last 2 months, upwards of 5 litres a week. now this is a car that hardly gets driven, twice a week if lucky, for the missus to get to her mums and back, I have a work car, and am lucky to drive it on weekends. So, that's a LOT of water going missing. So, I took the car into work, had the borescope ready to chuck down no. 1 cylinder, after pulling plugs yet again, and seeing no.1 plug was always cleaner than the rest. didnt need the scope, no.1 which was at top dead, was covered in water. damn, blown headgasket I thought. Off with the head. No tell tale signs of gasket failure, head is straight and true, what the f..k is it then. wound no.1 piston back down the bore. F..K ME. 2 inch long crack, almost from top to bottom of no.1 cylinder. bugger whats even better, is that the car ran smooth as a dream, as long as I didnt get the vac needle into the positive zone, and even better, is that the night before I pulled the head off, even still with the thought in my mind that my car wasnt anywhere near its peak, and was more damaged goods than ever, I slapped (read: served him his arse on a plate) a brand new hsv r8, with less than half throttle.....

luke, thanks for your help. can these valves be put into a non turbo head in such a case. there 16.50 each, I work at a ford dealer in sydney dave

compression ratio is determined by piston, not chamber size, chamber sizes in both heads are the same. I'm leaning toward because the heads come from factory with valves in(ie: springs, seals and valves complete) that these are the parts that make the part numbers different between the 2 heads

OK, I am going to ask what is most likely a stupid question that undoubtedly will be met with differing opinions. this is what forums are for. I have a BA T with a blown head Gasket. I have a spare non turbo head. What are the differences between non turbo and turbo specific cylinder heads on BA's. They are listed as having differing part numbers. My plans are to get the non turbo head ported, polished, machined and what not, so I can removed the old head, change the gasket and fit the machined head, and be on my merry way, without having the car apart for a week or so while the head work gets done. So, what is the difference?, and, if anyone has even more knowledge, can it/should it be done??? Dave

could possibly be leaking from where the wiring harness enters the case, ford call it a guide sleeve, has '3' totally useless o'rings on it, must be made to leak. its pretty common, having seen it on many, many cars, and comes from the drivers side of the rear of the box, and can often easily be mistaken for a loose/leaking pan. bad news is there is a special retaining fork that secures it in please, which is only accesible (of friggin course) by removed the pan. typical

spotted BF F6 rego BIONIC this afternoon turning of hoxton Pk road dave

if anyone in sydney ever needs this done I can help no problem. I've done this 30-40 or more times. not that f*cked HIM's are common dave

that'll do the trick also, bluprinturbo, if your spark plug tubes are filling with oil, its most likely the spark plug tube seals. rocker cover has got to come off dave

any chance you could have overtightened the bolt when re-securing it? stripped thread perhaps? Its only an aluminium housing in the back of the diff, so the torque specification is actually quite low, as stated previously, its really only the thread locker that holds it in. If the thread in the rear housing is rooted, you will need to replace the housing, or heli-coil it, I have seen it happen quite a few times, when apprentices get a little too eager with the rattle gun dave

I'm a self confessed advocate for t5's. I think t56 are sh*t, 'weakness' of the t5 aside for one minute, no gearbox ever put into a falcon shifts better than a t5, jumping into a t56 is like driving a t5 with no oil and f*cked synchros, and its no better in the fg, also, but getting more off track as to the original thread topic but, hey, this threads long gone anyway, size doesnt matter. I've put 556 rwhp thru a toyota corona 4 speed @ over 11000 rpm, and 28 psi, and it never faulted and its not half the size of a t5.

hey mate, I dont want to give much away, but I work at a dealership in sydney and am aware of one car, an fg f6, on its 4th tailshaft. With 3 previous centre bearings being the reason they failed. I couldnt fault any other driveline item that could have caused this repeated issue, apart from once it had the usual cracked diff bushes. If you want more info, private message me.

I think the main problem with them is to a lesser extent the 1-2 change but mainly on the 2-3 change, when the motor is producing its maximum torque, the box doesnt handle the cog swap under this condition, and all the boxes I have seen fail, have been on 2-3 shift