Craig.

I think we know which one of you guys is dreaming and it's not you! Don't get too attached mate. Part of the trick to haggling is that you have to be prepared to call his bluff walk away. There are plenty of cars for sale and there always will be. If there isn't anything else around that suits you at the moment, just wait a couple of weeks! How many buyers does he have lined up? None at that price point! If he is actually serious about selling it, he may well be in touch in a few weeks.

Mate, not trying to turn it into an argument, just saying that there are a lot of variables and its not the sort of thing to get into a pissing contest about. Anyhow, I'll play! My old ute made 320RWKW and had the following ( not including the $2200 that I spent on purchase and instal of a twin plate clutch.) P/West Stage 2 Intercooler kit Deka 60Lb Injectors Full CES exhaust which I picked up for free as I swapped another guy who wanted my standard exhaust. K&N panel filter Old school Cappa flash box Custom tune That is all. So that's 320RWKW for $2570. How did I do?

In which case its a pretty crap poll as there are too many variables to consider. For example: *300RWKW is a lot cheaper than say 350RWKW to achieve. Both come under this poll however. *A lot of people over spend on mods not neccesarily required for low 300s in the name of safety, or buy bigger coolers than what is required so that they do it easier, without neccesarily trying to do it as cheap as they possibly can. *Auto drivers have an instant $2K advantage over owners of manual cars as any manual car needs $2K spent on a clutch replacement before attempting to join the 300 club. *Some guys do everything at home themselves and then get it tuned while others drop a car off and pay someone else to fit all of their aftermarket equipment and get a tune done. Labour alone can run to $1K plus for these guys. *Different tuners charge different amounts for their services, and the difference can be quite large. If you want to do it as cheap as possible, you could almost just do injectors and a real aggressive tune to get just over 300, but this is likely to cost you a lot more in the long run.

Just to be on the safe side, drive it like your nanna would until you get that tune.

Take her to a few car yards and let her work out what cars she likes. No use suggesting something that she thinks looks discusting. Then do a bit of research on each and work out whats the best. FWIW I would be looking at a second hand diesel I30 if I was after something small and cheap to run, but I'm not sure if you would get one for 15K.

You cant do that to us! Tell us what you got to get rid of!

Congrats on your purchase. In stock form the utes are very reliable. What is the build date? Cars after built after 05/06 had the beefier bottom end and valve springs so can be a lot more agressively tuned as a result before opening her up. Consult your tuner regarding what you want to achieve so he can guide you on which way to go. Use the search engine here too as it is a great tool for working out what you may need to do and how much to budget, depending on where you want to end up. As it is a manual, you will need to budget money for a decent clutch into the equation, so I would do this in the first round of mods along with an aftermarket cooler, K&N filter, a set of bigger squirters and a tune.

Nice thread guys. I have been wondering about this myself but as I am a techtard, I wasn't even sure to begin. I don't even own an ipod/MP3 thingy at this stage but was going to upgrade my mobile to an Iphone in the new year and use it to store some tunes. I wasn't aware that my BF had this capability, so it's good to know.

So you don't get them to do it. No wonder you know its been done right then? I have seen a guy with a Tornado rock up to the local Ford dealers with 2 bottles of Penrite SIN0 in the front seat expecting that to be used instead of the standard shop oil. It made me wonder who's car it ended up with at the time. You hadn't indicated that you changed it yourself ( I know you said you do them but I thought you meant supply them after taking into account the previous few posts) so I had visions of you doing the same.

How can you be sure the apprentice hasn't used your fluids in his Hynudai Getz?

The guy is just trolling. He has had 22 offers on the car and hasn't sold it yet!

Not heavy by any means, but as an apprentice my tyrant of a boss used to make me carry 10mtr lengths of colorbond gutter on the top of the old work ute. that's twice the length of the car. Eventually we got pulled up by the RTA. I explained to the guy that I was damned either way. Either I carried the load or my boss would find someone else to do it and I would be out of a job. He didn't book me but went for the jugular on my boss. After that the boss got the company who made the sh*t to deliver it to site. Funny about that.

I am also keen to do this. You can buy a battery tray to fit that side but the problem I see is getting it bolted in to sit level. May need to do a bit of fab work to make it sit just right. I am suprised that none of the established mod companies has gone this route before and made this available as a kit ( other than APS as already mentioned), as it makes sense to me to keep the standard battery rather than an odyssey type one if you are using your car as a daily driver. After all, if you wake to a flat battery one morning when trying to leave home for work and you ring the NRMA/RACV/RACQ, etc,etc, for a replacement to get you off to work, they are unlikely to carry an Odyssey, so it becomes a convenience thing IMO.

Horses for courses mate! To each their own. I could reply to your post with something like "I fail to see why anyone would enjoy driving an auto over a manual, unless your only interest is in 1/4 mile times, or your skill level just isnt up to driving a manual. Manual driving is so much more involving (and fun) than any auto box, regardless of how good it is", but I'm not as judgemental of slushbox steerers as you seem to be of real drivers! LOL

Not as easy on our cars as the one in this vid due to turbo location, but you could try this at home and find the leak yourself.

Zap has a point! Here is what a typhoon cooler looks like mate Australian Ford Forums

I agree. You could also go a Monza ( WOG) cooler. It wont break the bank and will bolt up like a stock one. Perhaps wack a Want to Buy for a Typhoon or Wog cooler and see what comes up! Or, buy this one! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BA-BF-XR6-FPV-F6-Turbo-Upgrade-Intercooler-BRAND-NEW_W0QQitemZ120494719589QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c0e0b8265

Looks to be a standard XR6 turbo cooler to me. The airbox is definitely not off a typhoon, as they have an extra snorkel fitted. Crappy angle on the photo. The Typhoon coolers aren't black and they are a 1/3 bigger (or there abouts) than a standard XR cooler.

They are bigger than an XR6T intercooler but they still aren't as efficient as any number of aftermarket ones. Where are you located mate. There are probably a few members here that may have one available. Possibly in your area. I took one off a mates car yesterday actually. When you pick it up you would be able to see the car it came off.

Oh come on mate. Everything is collectable once enough water has passed under the bridge of time. Lol. People collect Morris Minors and Leyland P76s FFS!

I thought the same as Bezerker about the Force 6. There were bugger all made. Nothing had been done like it before, or since in the Ford range. Until FPV started making these..... http://www.fpv.com.au/fpv-range/f6-e/overview.aspx Now I'm not so sure if the Force 6 will be as prized though. More collectable than a standard T though and you can pick them up for less than a Typhoon of the same vintage at the moment. Worth keeping in mind, thas for sure.

They will never be as collectable as a GTHO so don't buy it for investment reasons. However, in 30 years time if you have a good sample, unmodified, with low klms, matching numbers, in concourse condition, etc, it will no doubt be worth something to a collector. If you were going to sit on one for 30 years, my pick of the models would be the last of the inline 6 engined cars that will roll off the production line in the next couple of years. Once the V6 is brought over from the states, and the Geelong engine assembly plant comes to a hault, the last of the inline cars could be worth something given time. After all, it is the last in a long line of the only Aussie built, designed engines getting around at the moment. That has to be worth something for sentimental reasons.

Pretty sure that HI PSI was planning on doing the wastegate mod himself. He just needs advice on where to get the larger flapper so that he can replace it at the same time.

True, and no need to apologize for pointing that out. But when the speed limit is inapropriate for the conditions, it makes it pretty easy to be on the wrong side of the law! For example a 50 zone on an entry ramp to a freeway with a speed limit of 100/110 is probably an inappropriate speed limit for that area, don't you think?

Unfortunately, the only thing that is bullsh*t are our nanny state laws that protect us from ourselves, courtesy of our pollies. If you hadn't been brain washed you would be able to see it, but they have got to you mate! But why not aim for the same system here. It works! Better drivers, better travel times, better roads. No negatives that I can see. I have no problems with speed limits, particularly in towns and built up areas. What I don't get is when I have to drive 330klm to the next town south on a highway that resembles something out of Mad Max at only 100kph. Fatigue becomes a very big issue and it isn't going to matter how fast I am travelling when I hit a tree after falling asleep. Sorry. Not smoking anything here my friend. I get drug tested far too often at work to risk it. For what its worth, according to research I have read and also had presented to me by a local copper as part of a road safety campaign aimed at people working in my workplace, fatigue is our number 1 killer on country roads and as country roads account for the majority of fatalities, that makes fatigue the most common factor, not speed. I know you won't believe that, but it is pretty compelling when a copper stands up in a room and tells you this and presents evidence to back it up. Speed is always mentioned as a contributing factor, because generally a car is not normally stationary when it hits a tree or oncoming traffic! It doesn't neccesarily mean that a vehicle involved in a fatality was speeding though. Just that it was travelling at speed. Who would you recommend we tell? The pollies? That would fall on deaf ears, as there is far too much revenue raised from booking speeding motorists for them to change the way things are. It would be akin to asking them to ban poker machines. There is too much at stake for them to do that! If they save lives please explain to me why hasn't the road toll decreased and in many cases, has increased despite more speed enforcement around the country? Can you explain to me why the road toll went up once open speed limits were dropped and a 130KPH limit enforced in the NT? Sadly the only thing they are interested in is the bottom line. You can't see it though because you've been brainwashed, remember? I just feel sorry for the poor coppers who have to attend these accidents and inform families. They must feel that the whole thing is hopeless, stuck in the middle of a system that is not up to scratch and the terrible waste of lives that this shortcoming takes.