45T-XR

[quote name='sideways82' timestamp='1321442587' post='1160353'] yours will only be getting a tune if mine is off the dyno by then, hopefully mine is ready when I'm back on saturday. Was hitting 20psi today so a change will be made tomorrow to keep it to 17ish [/quote] 20psi is the new 17psi My Stock Bf motor runs 20 all day every day, street/strip. Stock plasticine rods love it!!

Whos your mechanic? I have blokes at work with that attitude, they keep throwing parts at gear and and cant diagnose for squat....its frustrating when your on the same hourly rate. But unfortunately that's life for a mechanic working with a bunch of fitters. hahah

During my apprenticeship I did heaps of on car disc machining to correct the brake shudder issue. In my opinion I think alot of it is caused by an the hub flanges not being clean/true and secondly due to incorrect/irregular wheel nut tension. In my old ba sedan, pulled the wheels, rotors and rubbed the flanges with a diamond stone and tensioned the wheel nuts with a torque wrench to ford spec, I never had a problem and my sedan copped a hard time. My BF ute I bought secondhand, and had a slight shudder when I bought it, that got a whole lot worst after powercruise. Recently put a set of the DBA4000s on the front with the t slots and bendix ultimate pads, cleaned the hub face and tensioned the wheel nuts properly.....Cant speak highly enough of them, bedded them in the normal way the afternoon I did them then gave them a flogging at the drags that night, initial pedal feel is easily 50%better, and overall performance im very pleased, will do the rears shortly and get braided hoses and improve even further but Im still wrapped with how the cars is even now.

Personally if you gives you .5 hp increase its still an increase, but can you always measure it? as with some mods the benefit or gain can be hidden or accentuated by various things, environmental and operational etc. All poeple like mick can do is test to the best of their ability and provide as honest results as possible. What really matters for the customer is to spend their money in a way that yeilds the best power per dollar ratio, and have a goal in mind for the vehicle, for example some people might go a full p/west of rapid piping kit etc to give them more hp/better efficiency or a faster et, but the fact of the matter is it may make no/little advantage if we are talking pure dyno figures, If your talking repeatabliity then that is a different story, as these setups might help with this issue. This is the first example that came to mind but if all it is your interested in is a dyno sheet and having a circle jerk with their mates then there are other items that will be more beneficial to gains compared to the dollar. that's part of the reason we are all here, to see what others have done or a doing and see what results. The easiest way to get what you want is find someone who has done it already, you always here blokes say the whole "I was to build it again I could have done if for half the price" that's the case still but we still need the pioneers who have more disposal income than anyone else who can afford to pay for all the Research and development of products, who would be the biggest one here... Im leaning towards Brian Lord and Nizpro here from memory. Im not saying by all means that they still have all the best products available in terms of money for hp etc, infact they probably dont, But the other options from other companies will give you the bang for buck but how is the quality? It all comes back to education.

There are 4 on sedan, one on each wheel hub, if you look behind the front rotos you will see the sensor, its magnectic and will most likely be covered in metal debris, clean it while your there. It works with a tone wheel that spins in close proximity to the sensor. The rear ones are on the half shafts close proximity to the outter most cv. The wiring runs along the front control blade and up through the floor. Neat the rear seat. Its a comon issue when rough handed rock apes do any rear end work on your car to damage the tone wheel etc. easy fix though.

Good sh*t, glad you got it sorted. Hows the car behaving now with the new sensor?

Just make one mate, buy a cheap one from supercheap put a bit of heat on it and bend it up then keep in your box for next time. If you dont have an oxy just get a bitter hammer and throw it in the vice and make it your bitch

Yeah that is the go apparantly, cant say 100% but I thought in the manual it said not to buy credits online and to contact hp australia directly. Cant remember if there a reason why, just skimmed over that part. Too much else to read haha

Like you said mate just boycott sct products if your that pissed. I did for other reasons, as im not even remotely interested in my zf getting tuned. Hp seems to be gaining monentum in australia and its only a matter of time until hp has all the same stuff as sct. And you can buy the hp software cheap, I just bought it for 950 bucks. Only slightly dearer than a xcal3 and you nevet get outdated as such with free software updates when they come out.

Also that would be greatly appreciated, I dont even know what what the battery offset is for, is in regards to something required to write a configuration for the wide band to work with the software?

Thanks mate, I appreciate it alot, Its not that I dont want help with it all, its just im worried about if there are normally any consecquences for these sort of things and if its the norm? Like I said I dont know how all this sort of stuff works. But I every tuner would be starting from a some sort of base, its not like they are programming from scratch right?

Is there a tuner lock function or something preventing you from reading it?

I got my innovate LM-2 off ebay pretty cheap, also If intended to use the clamp up the tailpipe you need to compensate as im pretty sure the AFR's at the tailpipe read approx .5 a point leaner as your suppose to read afrs just before the cat. Also if you have a ute and intend to do this make sure you get the longer sensor cable as my 8ft one that came with mine is too short FFS!!! hahah

Yes, Mine was tune with SCT xcal3 I had my stock tune, a 95 octane tune, 98 octane street tune, and 98octane tune that had the timing parameter unlocked for my water/meth. So I could add more timing with the xcal3 I flashed the tunes and pulled them out one by one with the HP software, It is easy as piss to do, I worked it out the first time I oppened the software. After reading the hp forum I saw sometimes there is dramas with writing to the VCM and that a constant supply battery charger/jump back should be used when flashing. I was over cautious and did this anyway when I was reading and saving the tunes

Thanks for the advice, Im brand spanking new to tuning, im pretty handy mechanically and have a good grasp of the sensor/inputs an so on, I did my apprenticeship at ford from 2004-2007 and love fords. Sometimes I wish I would have stayed but the money doesnt pay the bills. But Id recommend anyone who still works there to get the SCT stuff for datalogging, IMO its far better/userfriendly compared to even using the ford scan tools. What I do need to learn is what all of these parameters do/represent with the software before I play around so its all just looking at tunes and researching for me at the moment. I have a LM-2 yet to use it with datalogging with the Hp or SCT logging software, Like I said still researching to find what Id like to put into a custom confirguration to log relevant info usefull for tuning. You have a one up on me then mate, its cheap as chips at around $950 in my opinion as I was prepared to shell out for SCT advantage lll at around $3000 from memory, correct me if that's out, which you cant get hold of without a shop and I begged and borrowed...all but stole hahah As you would have heard probably there are apparantly a few things missing from HP that SCT has but on the HP forum I think it was bill that said to keep sending them emails etc about what you want in the software that isnt available as they dont like being second best. So they seem to have a pretty good customer focus and providing a great product. Id been looking at few bionic ear kits from jaycar and after speaking to luke, ordered one. So that should be here soon Luke and Toads could explain it better but if its purely for doing a bit of stuff as a hobby or your own car I think the normal vin based gredit system would be best, but when you buy the software it comes with 8 pre loaded credits, fords cost 2. and no annual renewal fee and free updates from memory.

Luke I appreciate all your advice so far in regards to taking the leap into buying the software and have to thank you, as Id say If I didnt talk to you I probably wouldnt have taken the plunge at the moment. But Im sure as hell glad I did. However as I have no experience in this sort of background Im not aware of what is etiquette in terms of sharing the tuning information, I know you offered to send me some cam timing tables to suit the turbo I wish to upgrade to later on and I appreciate that alot, But I havent asked for that information due to the afformentioned point, as I couldnt possibly take advantage of all your hard work. Something to which Ive seen you offer time and time again, IH8TOADS is another one. But I have alot of loyalty to my tuner and Id feel bad If I was to benefit from all your, IH8TOADS and Daves work. I know this probably makes no sense to alot of people but Id kind of see it as a kick in the teeth

Yeah I had no luck, best I could managed was 12.5. I put another 2 degrees of timing in, but I went slower (12.9) way too much wheelspin, so I was quicker on my street tune. Ive just pulled all my SCT tunes out 1 by one into hp and will start moding a copy of my street tune to suit water/meth. Might try keeping a fair bit of timing out of it down low and only another 1-1.5 more uptop, see if it can help with hookup. I really down want to go slicks to run 11s. Might also look for a sticky street tyre

Haha nah shes rock stock mate, I got the limited edition bf1 ute that ford brought out with 360rwkw. Well the whole "nah mate shes stock" was the line I was rockin' at powercruise, everyone pulled up beside me and my cousin hes ute makes a bit more, with bigger zorst. Everyone goes, how much boost are you running, we reply nah mate shes stock, then f*ckin towel em!!!! Had a ball.

Thanks luke , but to clarify its BF1 ute, I havent touched any tunes with the software yet, Ive pulled all my tunes from SCT into HP to look at, and have a few mates cars that are letting me pull their stock/modded tunes in the next couple of days. I want to spend a couple weeks just going over different tunes and using the compare function to see that main tables that are being adjusted by tuners. But mainly want to understand how all the programming is done, im in no rush and want to learn it right. I tried do a read entire on a mates VZ 6cylinder boat anchor today and it was saying it was goin to take a half hour so I aborted it as my laptop didnt have enough battery. I will try again in couple of days when I get a chance with a full battery. I thought it was strange as when I pulled each of the tunes from my car, took between 1 and 2 mins Thanks for the info guys

Hi lads Ive just bought HPtuner VCM suite to start tuning my car as some know already, the general veiw is that SCT is far better for datalogging, as my car is currently tuned with SCT and Xcal3 this isnt a drama as I have just downloaded the SCT livelink software. Im planning on getting hold of an Xcal2 for datalogging Ive a had a quick look through livelink and Im hoping someone in the know can confirm this for me and this is kinda what it seems like to me. With the livelink software can you set up a customised file for dataloggin that logs certain parameters that you include and save that configuration to the Xcal3 then can you just datalog using the Xcal3 with the configuration you determine? Also can you setup. Also can you add a input for a wide band 02 sensor? and with the earlier X2? I know my VCM suite supports this input but Id like to datalog with SCT This would be really handy for the me at the strip as Im not too keen on having the laptop in the car. Thanks in advance Mic

Sorry mate I couldnt find an actual resistance reading but if you get stuck let me know, I can measure mine tomorrow im on rdo, trying to get my car reader for test and tune tomorrow night. From memory is similar to nearly every other sensor having a 5volt reference, The voltage out when cold should be considerably low as the resistance of the sensor is most when cold, you should be able to log cht voltage, should steadily increase to 4.5-to near on 5volts at about 87ish degrees.

From memory its just a two pin connector, same as the ones for the VDO's on the camshaft phasers. I think it is 19mm like luke said, a handy tip is to cheap sh*tty set of ling long combination spanners, purely to modify for doing special little jobs, I have a custom one I made when I was doing my apprenticeship for changing out the high pressure power steering hose, saves having to drop the swaybar 'd' mounts and the hose clamp/insulator on the crossmemeber. Although didnt you say that the signal came/went when playing with the connector? Once you pull the senor and check for corroded/bent pins, check the harness aswell and use a seal pick or similar to squash the female pins closer to ensure they are fairly firm and that there isnt any tension on the harness putting the conneciton under stress. I should be able to get you a resistance reading for the sensor if you like? cheers luke, turn out my key came with my stuff, it was folded up in my receipt haha.

Sweet as, well I got all my gear today, accept for the email with the application key so I cant even have a play

Just hope that now Ive purchased VCM suite that eventually it gets to where SCT is now, then there will be greater competition and the consumers will reap the benefits

You tell me this after I just paid for my VCM suite today.doh!!!