45T-XR

Flash all your tunes including your stock one in and pull them out one by one with vcm suite. that's what I did, under the advice of the two gentlemen above and ralph wiggum aka luke. Been playing with a few things here and there, havent looked back

BF Ute with ZF 360rwkw 12.2@119mph with 2.0 60ft on 235/17" Dunlops

Hi Karen, as fellow members we are very sorry for the situation you are in at present. All the above suggestions are great and worth consideration. If you could name and shame the dealer and also give us your location we might be able to help out a bit more. If you in my area Im sure I would be able to help you out with labour for free

Hi im Mic fron Gladstone, Central Queensland 2005 BF Turbo ute in Lightening strike 20" rims Process West 2.3 kit with stage 2 cooler, race air box, battery and throttle body relocation Jd Customs surge tank with 044 70lb nizpro high flowed injectors X-force 4" dump, 100cell call and twin 2.5" cat back system Built by me, tuned by Dave Sheehy in Mackay Making 360+rwkw and 1100+nm

Dont use generic tunes, just buy the blank xcal then get custom tunes. If you cant afford to get custom tune, then buy they box and leave the car stock until you can. With xcal, be prepared to shell out all over again in a couple years, they have a habbit of shafting us

Use your xcal and read the codes and list them up I doubt it would be plugs and coils, generally they will fail under load. Id nearly bet you will have codes P1270, P2110 P2105 or something along those lines. You will have a either faulty tps, dirty throttle body or vacuum leaks or a combination of those. Less likely than that will failure of the throttle body motor itself which isnt as common but does happen. Its only a tiny little motor. Post of the codes and we can help more

Thanks mate. good luck with the gearshift, still more left in it by the sounds

Nice mate!! I know mph is the real measure but im interested to know what power yours is making ans your 60" time, I might have to get a set of those invo. I know the sedan is a fair bit lighter than my ute but that's a great time regardless!!

BF1 Turbo ute 12.2 @119mph on stock 235 dunlops in 17" Unopenned motor, stock zf, and diff.

????

Every bf I ever worked on takes off in second gear from a stand standstill unless you manually select first gear or you give it absolute sh*t with the throttle, my bf still does it also. Fgs may be different but I think what you may be feeling is the torque converter unlocking.

Anyone found any more info, im not having any luck

Ratter is right. Most decent workshops with have a SNAP-ON motus or something similar, honestly it should cost you much even if you did go to ford, its a 15mins job and that's including connecting the scan tool and identifying the vehicle

Thanks for the effort mate I will keep looking. Reason Im asking is on the HP Tuners forum there is a guy in the USA that has made up a virtual dyno app. Now I know alot of blokes might on this train and go for a big circle jerk bla bla. But its just another tool and id like to have it to use with my datalogging and tuning etc. Anyway being a USA bloke he has everything from the USA in there already, I asked him what he had for oz cars, he said nothing, but he could provide me with a spec sheet of data that he required and If I could get the info to him he will update his application so I can use it, and he is willing to help out with anyone else in australia with modifying his app to suit your car. Its all free and he relies on donations so after I get it all working Im goin to throw him a donation

Hi lads, trying to aquire some information in regards to the B-series. I have all I need accept for the Drag coefficient of a BF XR Turbo ute, and google hates me, for some reason I can never find what I want in a search engine Cheers for any help

Ive only calibrated them with the FORD PDS and IDS when I was there, then using the snap-on modus. I had a mate at a walkinshaw dealer call me once for a maloo he had just pulled the motor out of, once he got it running again, same issue. He was trying to calibrated it but the column was 360+ degrees out, and it wont let you calibrate it if your that far. What had happened is when they dropped the k-frame the wheel and column had turned right arond. He had done the right thing and marked the shaft, most have a master spline and only go one way but. The best thing to do if your playing with this sort of stuff is once you disconnect the column from the rack, turn pull the key from the ignition and turn the steering wheel until it locks, that way when you go back together you see straight away it only needs a 1/4 or so turn back to center then no dramas, If you dont and spin it too far you can damage the clock spring.

Depending on how regular you do engine oil changes and quality of fuel you can make it worse. For instance if you do the first couple of oil changes as per factory specs 15k then that's a decent amount of time for carbon deposits to build then once you put the flush in, it loosens all the puss and you cop it all in the turbo supply screen. As what has already been said, ditch the screen and put a remote filter set up on it such as the earls one

The thing is they cant prove squat. and even if for some wild reason they decided to pay for the car to have a dyno run which they wouldnt, you can refuse as Dealers have denied other claims aver cars being on the dyno. So if they cant prove its more powerful then they cant do squat. And if they wish to test drive it, doesnt matter who it is they cant deny you based on a mechanic thinking it feels faster even if it does. There would probably be alot more than 5% difference between stock cars anyway

Is it ZF auto?, if it is that's normal to run them up in 3rd gear

If you cant feel it in the wheel or through the pedal I doubt the cause is disc thickness variation. Id be inclined to get the driveshaft balanced, and get the doughnuts checked. Its typically between 80-110kph

I got taught to do alignments that way too, works a treat

Any progress mate, did those screws turn up. Cant wait to hear more

No wuckin forries, lucky atomic slugs and rods are shiny

I had not dramas with p/west battery relocation. Love the wheels bloke, Im getting rid of my 20s and trying to find a nice set of 18s for mine with 9.5 rears, seen anything else in satin/matte black with 5 spokes?

But more importantly I want something sweet to look at when the time comes I have to build a motor so any of these left?