45T-XR

Lol cheers I thought I did but obviously now, I didnt. Mods please move

Lads, im fairy confident the main caps on the I6 are cast iron. Can anyone confirm this for me, they look like it and I dont particularly want use the spark test or belt them with a hammer. Thank you in advance for your replies

My experience is far,far less than yours, and Ratters. But in regards to the knock detection side of things, have you actually datalogged the knock retard stuff whilst using a knock box or something similar? Ive only tuned a few mates cars, one being my own, but I can tell you for certain that every single car has started to pull timing before knock was detected with the knock box. I purchased the "Knock Box" from Smiths racing service after doing the VCM suite course as they thought highly of it. I also sent it up to Dave at CPV for him to test as his had sh*t itself and he was testing a few. His feedback was quite good said it was hard to beat it in terms of dollars/simplicity. The only gripe I have with the knock box is the fact it cant log straight to laptop like a few of the other ones do....but I intend to use my own car as the test mule and use the knock box to reduce sensitivity of the stock ones if needed to calibrate them correctly. Then once I know they are working I can log with the knock sensors confidently. I think Mick referred to doing this also earlier and doing this for each and every car is just one of the time consuming things that contribute the time spent on a tune blowing out. I can just about guarantee that the normal price for a custom tune would not leave much of a profit margin due to the length of time Mick spends on his tunes judging by the comments made. And interms of a business making money from custom tuning probably wouldnt be as profitable compared to something like servicing???

Hi lads, my apologies for reviving an old thread but just curious as to if this is the tach adapter you ended up using to run in conjunction with your eboost2 http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=99

Yeah I think it did have a f6 bar on it. Must have put the stocker back on. Did he end up putting the new diff gears in? Last I remember after the manual to auto conversion and the bigger turbo he was complaining about it being laggy and wanted to try shorter gears

That looks like zlats old ute off the other forum

What a PITA, I hope ford have a quality throttle body now if its sealed, the old one that was serviceable was puss and used to sh*t all the time. For the older ones there is a 3rd new style TPS now, alot dearer than the previous ones, but hopefully the quality is proportional to the price!!

Yeah ok, cheers for the feedback. Although I have chosen the same pistons as you, ive gone with the 698kw rods and kept the piston/bore clearance as per cosworth/atomic specs. Will see how it likes the 40 oil

Ninka, curious to know by what parameters you are using to guage the effects of different viscosities in your new built motor. Although I will have to trial a few after I build my new one the stock engine in my ute now seems to like a 40 oil, my last oil change I went to a 50 and the motor seems less smooth and less responsive although its mostly a feel type thing its probably just all in my head but I will be definately go back to a 40 if I clock up enough ks to justjfy another oil change before the fresh engine

Mate dave did my original tune. 360rwkw with stage 2 cooler and small twin 2.5" exhaust. Since then ive started tuning it and fitted water meth kit as per daves advice, gets hot here in gladstone also. Intake temps originally were 38-40+ degrees at 18psi and now with the water meth runnin g 19.5psi temps are 18-19 degrees. Which has allowed me to add a heap more timing safely. Now making 380rwkw. Sorry to jack your thread chillaxin, just saw old mates comment on the water meth and thought I would post my results so spread the word. Although im yet to go with e85 I dont think the resilts would be as dramatical if at all, but water meth and 98 oct pump fuel are golden!! Infact id even consider running cheaper 95 octane for when its on the meth but the 98 is just for piece of mind. Chillaxn, again mate your ute is sicker than aids, would put a horn on a jellyfish!! full credit mate as from memory you're also doing all your own mods?

Judging by the fact the rest if his gear is atomic id say its an atomic unit as thet do their own steel tensioner, the later model ford ones are metal aswel though. The old plastic ones used to rattle when the o'ring seal failed, the metal ones are a metal-metal seal

How the engine going mate? My bits will be back from machining this friday, excited to put it all together!! I ended up sticking with the atomic/cosworth piston to bore clearances just incase. Maybe if I get a bit more courage might go tighter next time

Cheers lads, not looking good for trying them tonight, bad weather again!!!

Will do, test and tune is friday night but the weather is looking grim!! Last one got rained out also. What wear rating are the invos?? From memory the achilles are 220

Although this might seem like a backwards step ive given the et streets the flick and gone for alchilles 123s in 265s on 18" rim to run all the time now on the street and therefore will try them on the track this friday. Anyone else tried them? My first impressions are quite good, when they are warm the car doesnt break traction in 2 and 3 now in the zf. Just wanted a car that can run half decent 11s as it sits in street trim. Hopefully I bloody get it friday night! Also running hero molanza o on the fronts, they seem quite good also.

Glad you sorted the issue, Its actually quite common on the earlier b series models, and the fact that Binks couldnt fix it is appaling. Firstly becuase nearly all of these sorts of issues are caused by things such as this, and secondly...and more importantly, there was actually a Technical Service Bulletin covering this that ford brought out.

$/kw doent justify it like you said, but for me it was for the same reason as why I purchased the atomic internals to put in the engine im building. And in the grand scheme of things $270 is cheap insurance, ive spent 7k on all my atomic internals and machine work, im saving on labour by building it myself but atleast I know it will handle the pizzling its going to get, I know its not needed but I want this thing to rev to 7k alllllll day!!

Great minds!! I bought my kit last week, cause I needed to send a Balancer and flex plate to Brissy to So I can get rotating assembly balanced for the new engine.!! Thought it was a waste of time sending the stock one. Plus Justin from Tuff Car parts hooked me up with a great price on the kit, like you said comes with two other metal pulleys and a belt!!

Good advise, I went for a drive last night cause we have had a bit of a cold snap up here since I did my last tune, and it was starting to turn the tyres in 3rd, as I had a IAT adder setup to add 2 degrees when the IAT's got down to below 25 degrees, and it was a bastard, second gear in the zf was a wasted of time cause Ive also brought the boost on alot harder than my last tuner did, but it was mainly an experiment cause it tune myself now, anyway I zeroed the IAT adder table out and the car is behaving itself now and feels heaps quicker instead of just being good for turning the tyres, its quite good on 20" street rubber now, I will be having a play with the laptop at the next test and tune with the et streets on, might be able to take a put some timing back in uptop. Like bionics, mines another stock bottom end, with stock springs and pump gears etc.

Did you do the usual stuff while you put the spool rods in, ie head studs and oil pump gears? I dont understand why you would have the bottom end apart and not throw a decent set of pistons in while you were going? If it was me with standard pistons I'd be goin slightly the other way, and more boost over timing, now you have new rods it will be less likely to bend one, even with a bit of detonation you would probably be more likely to melt a piston over a bent rod anyway. If you are still running standard turbo you might as well run boost up until it it starts to run out of efficiency and the intake and exhaust temps get too high, then dial it back slightly and then add your timing. But if you havent dont head studs etc then I wouldnt got too much higher, also Im not really taking my own advice, mine is still unopenned with stock head bolts, factory pump gears and valve springs running 18.5psi. But Im not far off from putting a built motor in so this one is the experiment. But I would advise anyone to do it, although Im sure some people have already

Mate that is an awesome result!!! Your mate clint seems like a top lad, I use vcm suite to tune my car now, it does the job, mine is also 05 model bf, they love 380+rwkw. Is yours auto or manual? Mines 6 sp auto and it makes it nice to drive but still fun when I want. Congrats again mate, what a weapon!!

Down behind the front bar mate, that dyno sheet is old too by the way I updated my build thread though, 511rwhp. Unopenned, Project hand grenade

Yeah I will do an e85 tune after I finish building my atomic bottom end and throw it in, all my goodies are goin into a spare block so im not worried if I break this one haha

hope it all goes well, 100rwhp increase will have you giggling like a school girl, I know I was haha. But mines tuned by me now, and im just winging it haha so see how it holds up

Just a tweak of the tune, 1more pound of boost and 2.5 degrees of timing uptop that's it