45T-XR

Just run a small jet on the water meth kit to suit your current tune, anything upto 375ml. You could potentially go higher but Ive only tested up to the 375ml jet. If you are going fit the kit run it for the whole run. It may not show up on the dyno but should definately help with et and give you a greater safety margin on the tune.

I bought a gtx3582r from joe from cms. He was selling them brand new minus rear housing for $1600. If you can get a decent second hand rear housing might be a good option

New pb 11.6@120mph

How is the fuel system goin mate, werent you goin aeromotive or something

Rb jet. I personally havent run the rsr's but my cousin and I had near on identical figures, he ran the rsr's and I ran the achilles, and tge achilles did hook up alot better.

Is it manual and have LED lights?

Yeah mate 123S

John f*ck those rsr's off and get some of the achilles I got. Dan has seen how good mine are and is ditching those rsr's, technically a semi slick but are cheap, I get the 265 18s for 230 a tyre

Ive been running the Snow Performance stage 2 kit for 18months if your sticking with 98octane fuel I dont think you can beat it. I was making 480rwhp on the stock engine with standard turbo and only a twin 2.5"exhaust, on 17.5psi and 38 degree intake temps. Fitted the water meth kit screwed the boost up to 19psi 2 degrees of timing and it went 511rwhp still on the unopenned engine. It ran like that for over a year with no problems, I tested the intake tems with and without meth in the same day to duplicate ambient temps and on the meth they dropped to 19degrees. I have no doubt then engine would have gone even harder before valve springs or something went, I just didnt have the time to push it harder as I wanted to get my new built bottom end it. Im still fine tuning the car without the water meth before I really see how far the new engine will go on the water meth but I will keep you posted. Im planning on going E85 shortly also and have never heard of anyone runnning it on the falcons with water/meth injection. I dont expect a huge increase in power/torque if any but I think still using a small jet it will help with intake temps/consistancy. Also as a matter of economy, I get around 450+kms to a tank of fuel and the water meth reserviour lasts longer than a tank of fuel for the way I drive, the controller that comes with the kit I have set it to only start pumping at 10psi boost pressure, then the second dial is what you set for your max boost then the controller regulates the pump output linearly. Also when I pulled the old engine down, it was perfect with 74xxxkms on it. No bent rods, no detonation on evident on the pistons, and no Knock retard occuring in my datalogs and nothing with when listening with the knock box

Lads, Thought I would share this http://youtu.be/M4q_7jI0_5Q

Nice pic kent! Bought it today

You wont get booted unless you go sub 11.0. There have been a few cars running low 11s with mph so you will be sweet. I should be out too

Lol

Start off making sure the wheel and tyres specs are set in the tune correctly.

Has anyone glt these eboost to work off road speed signal instead of rpm? That would be heaps better for making the car quick for the strip...chillaxin you bastard, I hate seeing your pics in a thread, I get green with envy, your ute is hands down best looking ute ever

Like bionic said not always alan, if you suspect you have a vacuum/boost leak, easily checked at idle with car running by spraying some carbi clean or brake cleaner in a fine mist around all the gaskets/joiners and hoses. If there is a leak idle stability will be greatly compromised. You can also check using the scan tool by monitoring IAC KAM3 and IAC TRIM, you add them together but I cant remember what the value indicating a vac leak was! That ol saying use it or lose it, and ive been away from ford too long to remember. I might have a search on here to see id I did post it up years ago or check the tsb's I have at home. There was a bulletin on it....getting old doesnt help either, 26 yo now so its all down hill now :(

I also had this happen to me...being an ex ford mechanic, I thought the ol' floor mate would be responsible... so while watching the speedo go past 160kph on the way home from emerald passing a couple trucks and the fact id had it happen a couple times I was in a state of mind that was way to calm for what was about to happen. Anyway reached down pulled the floor matt out, still hauling ass, stopped looking at the speedo by this stage, was just about to put the tranny in neutral and switch the engine off at the risk of buzzing the motor...but for some reason stomped on the throttle pedal a couple times, and luckily the throttle closed. Immediately pulled over. On long trips I always carry my Snap-on Ethos and a tool bag, carried out a code test, nothing. Pulled the intake of the throttle body and found that the throtte butterfly was tight in the bore. What had happened that was just after my water/meth install and I had the reserviour slightly higher than where it should have been, this was causing the meth to syphon under idle/load load conditions, the meth corroded between the throttle butterfly shaft and the throttle body. I pulled the body off, sprayed some wd40 around the shaft and kept working it, luckily it freed up and it got me home......Fitted the optional solenoid that should be mandatory as far as im converned that snow performance offer. Replaced the throttle body with one from ebay and since then Ive never had a problem and I run the water/meth constantly now... There is a small cover slightly bigger than a 10c coin, on the throttle body, now every service I pop it off and spray some chain lube through there on the shaft and spay a bit on the inside of the throttle body bore around where the shaft runs in, just as a precaution. That was over a year ago.. One Idea I want to try is actually pull the shaft of the throttle body out and machine a small recess for an oring or small lip seal into the bore, one on each side so I know 100% that that there is no chance of anything getting in there again... But my rough inclusion of lubing it all up when I service it has seemed to do the trick in the mean time...... Long winded, but though it worth sharing. And hoping this helps out others... Hopefully preventing you putting a pucker mark on your leather...

I remember seeing those in livelink, havent seen if they work with the xcal3 on the bf. anyone know

And just quietly get on board the hp tuners train lads!! The more we get the more inclined we are to get the features that hp is currently lacking ie zf

I havent had any issues with flashing my or a mates car with hp, both our cars originally tuned with sct and both had changes to the zf calibration. Just get the changes made to the zf tune and flash it with sct. Then flash over the top with hp to change the engine stuff. Ive tried two different calibrations in the zf to ensure I could notice the difference if hp caused anything. It doesnt, the zf calubration is stored in the tcm. Ive pulled both the zf tunes ive had with basically all else in the engine the same, the diferences in the trans was just shift firmness, but ive been able t find differences in the torque managment tables that can be viewed with hp. What im yet to try is changing these tables in hp and see if they have the same result as what I asked for with the zf calibration

^good advice lukass

BF1 xr6t auto stock v/springs, 17.5psi 360+rwkw for over 18months and then 19psi 380+rwkw with 71,XXXkms on the clock. Pulling the motor out now to fit a built bottom end Ive built but am doing the springs, pump gears and timing chain though while its out. The car was performing perfectly, the only reason the engine is coming out is cause Im rushing to get it all done/run it and retuned by powercruise. Countless test and tunes and plenty of dyno runs on the old engine. Although I didnt do a cyl leak down test before pulling it out, compression test both dry and wet showed the motor was still in great nick!!

Alan if you're worried about people mistreating your car whilst at the wheel aligner, tyre place etc just use a valet type option, you can have the rev limit or boost set to whatever you like

I heard there was a guy who builds them in rocky but its a sort if backyard type setup. He built one for a mates 500+cube rambler. He reckons they dont break lol

Thanks for the reply guys, Ended up finding the answer I needed, cheers