45T-XR

I love 32's man....always had a soft spot for them

Im going the 1800 so I will let you know how noisey they are

Thanks mate, will be a good learning exercise. You still have my email or would you like me to txt it?

Brendan, would you consider sending me those logs of the bad idle, I wouldnt mind having a look for learning purposes

There is a disarm procedure I used to know so you could disconnect the battery without the alarm going off but Its been too long. Bionic might be able to chime in on that one. I had something to do with leaving the ignition on and maybe cycling the door locks or something, cant remember. But yes, definately sounds like engine MIL that was on in the dash

Possible fuel pump, or blockage/restriction. or blocked cat. Get it checked ASAP

Trans Light? are you sure it wasnt the Engine light? The Shuddering is most likely the limp strategy with the PCM, as it cant control its engine temp it begins to drop cylinders out to keep the car cool enough to move for few minutes, to get out of traffic etc, then eventually it will shut the car down to protect the drivetrain. If the car is tune with SCT and you have an xcal, throw the xcal on it and do a DTC check, post the DTC up and it will help us help you. If your car is stock and you like to do some DIY stuff, a cheap OBDll reader off ebay would be a good investment, most come with an iphone app now to do basic DTC checks, alot of the numbers for DTC's transverse makes/model. Sort of a standardisation, which makes things alot easier. From memory you will still get the occasional odd ball code may be manufacturer specific but for the most part it will get you out of the sh*te

You have probably pulled the hose iff the actuator so there is no boost signal to act on the diaphragm. Im assuming you car has been tuned... As I would think that the factory tune would have clipped the o/boost before 30psi.

58psi with vac line off at idle

Shudder whilst braking, or driving around 80-100kph type speed?

I have twin 3"manta..... I love it, slightly louder than my twin 2.5 xforce but a thousand percent better quality

The BCM...Similar to the old TSB? I can understand why they bought out an bulletin over it for a New car still under warranty, this covers their ass. But warranty doesnt apply to a BA. Im not saying your wrong or its the correct way by the book to do it, but old mate was quite upset at paying another 90 bucks for a switch, all Im saying is a way Ive used in the passed to fix them.

And yours sounds like movement in the pedal or switch adjustment also and when you hit bump or dip the pedal moves and hits the brake switch. Same fix will help

Ive have done fair few in the past without issue, even when I flew to Melbourne and bought my ute From Deer Park Drove it out the front gate onto the motorway, and it was doing the same thing, pulled out the switch, used my teeth, crunch crunch back in and all fixed and that was over 3 years ago. Ive seen few new switches get installed the same that havent worked, the same fix works every time. I wouldnt hold the pedal out then install the switch and use the weight of the pedal to act on the switch and set the plunger depth.The plunger itself will provide a small amount of resisitance and this changes the position of the brake pedal at rest. Like I said yesterday, pull the switch out, put your foot on and off the as you would whilst driving, then keep the pedal at this position whilst you install the switch.

Are you setting the switch correctly, I dont know what the other boys do but I used to grab the plunger with my teeth and hold the switch in my hand and pull, you will hear a crunching noise when it comes out, then put it back in its hole, before you do the push the brake on and off a few times, you need to be careful you dont move the brake pedal away from the switch plunger as you install as it wont give a correct adjustment for the plunger at the brake off position

No...I reduced the indicated engine torque values in the low load areas down, as I had raised them whilst having a play. When I hit the set button it would accelerate harshly then reduce throttle rapidly, then repeat with a frequency of about once per second.

I had a similar issue, I fixed it eventually

Little birdy told me Gladdy should have it within a couple of weeks. The math goes like this. 45T-XR's Ute+GTX3582r+built motor+E85= 45T-XR happy in pants!!

Its fairly comon for boost to creep in higher gears, look into getting some more work done in terms of boost control and speak to your tuner, they might not be have the boost tuned in closed loop or they havent spent enough time on it or didnt even run the car on the dyno in 5th or 6th. Normally only run in 3rd or 4th and a road test even up to 3rd and 4th wouldnt be something most tuners would risk on the street.It would be fairly intense on the car and the dyno. It could be a limitation of the dyno perhaps. Maybe mick from pitlane could chime in to add more.

If that's been honed its interesting that the slugs have been put back in. Givin the crack. The corroded lip uptop, I wouldnt think that's been honed.

The spool cp rebuild combos are excellent value for money but from memory dont have piston crown cooling holes/squirters in the rods, although a decent machine shop could change that. I rebuilt mine using the atomic pistons, rings and 698kw rods, head and main studs, h/duty tensioner, sprockets and chain. It soon adds up and with parts and machining still cost $7500ish from memory and that's assembling the engine myself, double checking all the clearances. Jack bros in brisbane did all the work and everything was balanced spot on. Although few have had issues with cranks/ main caps walking I also went the atomic mains girdle, if I had my time again I would go billet mains as I had to get it line bored anyway because the girdle pulled the mains out. Billet mains would also dave hours when checking and looks heaps neater. Also one other thing is if you go rods with the gudgeon pin feed, get atomic do drill the top big end shell or get the engine shop to call atomic and ask. Set me back a few days as I ordered the bearings myself and didnt send them to jack bros, atomic actually drill the breaking shell smaller than the hole in the conrod, to a slight restriction im guessing. Apparantly the bulk of the spool/cp kits sold are 20thou over and even the smallest atomic slugs require bore/hone. Make sure you ask the engine shop if they have a torque plate for the hone, if they dont use someone that does. I would also go a little tighter piston/bore clearance if I ever build another one, as its a touch noisey on startup and for 20-30 sections after. The atomic spec is compensating for heaps off boost/heat, so for most punters you could go tighter no dramas depending on boost/majority of inteded use

Possibly try recalibrating the load tables in the tune

Johny didnt he say they were revving it to 7000rpm no worries, that obviously got around the issues you were having with the zf. Wouldnt mind knowing how

Yeah sweet. Your ute is a prime example of a great setup, and goes to show that power isnt everything. Well done.

Im Mic by the way not dan, Hes the other Welsh. Congrats on the 60 footers, Im jealous, I'd love to get 60's like that, hoping to be able to with a converter for the zf soon, and decent rubber. Like dan and Mick from pit lane said it depends on what your tuner has setup in the tune. If your chasing consistancy on the pump fuel, definately look into a water/meth kit. I love the stuff, Your cooler is more than ample. You could look into some sort of misting setup to mist the cooler, or come up with some sort macgyver setup with a C02 extinguisher, that will all be trial and error though as if you get too much ice it will act as an insulator. Personally I still think water/meth would be the best option. Just buy a kit and then it will just be dyno time, as you will have to sort out how far to go in terms of gains made vs quantity/jet size, If you go too far it will cost you hp without increasing boost/timing to suit. Just start small and work your way up, just log hp vs intake temp for each jet size. With 375ml jet and 19.5psi boost in 30 degree ambient temps Ive had intake temps on the dyno from 18-20 degrees and that is with the process west stage two cooler, I cant recal the differences between your cooler and mine but I'd say you would see even better results. This is the kit I use here http://www.snowperformance.net/stage-2-boost-cooler.html