45T-XR

I hope for your sake you don't. But being only a 5 min job and having such a close call myself I don't take any second chances, One day I might go see the upholsterer to get the leather re-done and try to remove that pucker mark on the driver's seat

That is a SIN.....E85forlyf! lol

If you are going to do some sort of blend of the two you will need a vary good relationship with your tuner, and I doubt many would do it. It is always best to flash the car to stock first then start with HP, you don't know what tables the SCT tuner has used to add timing fuel etc as there are plenty of modifyers etc. And with HP have a crap scanner still atm you can't log sufficiently to prove it. Don't let me deter you from Getting HP by all means but personally I think your either all in or all out, no middle ground...

I still use it on E85 for the extra cooling effect and piece of mind, especially when it doesn't hurt. Yes I believe you can get quench but I've never experienced it. If you just want piece of mind/consistancy like I said run a small jet only to supplement your AFR on pump fuel. It takes 2 mins to change jets so if you want to lean on it a bit more for dyno day or a race tune, leave the jets with your tuner and get him to tune it to its max, For safety you might be able to use the IAT modifyer or lambda correction table to add the extra timing for the water/meth instead of adding the extra timing to the main borderline knock table. I would be more inclined to use the lambda table though triggered from a richer AFR, the IAT modifyer may have the potential to add the timing when the IATs are cooler which might be a consequence of cool ambient temps of winter etc. Your tuner would have to have a play around and see what is the best/safest way to add the timing for you. I used to just have two tunes on my laptop on pump 98 fuel with the big 625ml jet (I tune with HP tuners) and run the smaller 175ml jet with E85 for Drag racing, powercruise etc. But I tune it on E85 without the water/meth, then once tuning is finished I power up the system and run just to check it isn't hurting power, and with that small jet it never has. Now for some reliability issues, If you buy the kit, you cant always guarantee that you will be able to mount the nozzle higher than the tank so to prevent syphoning/getting sucked through under vacuum, get the extra anti syphon solenoid, also every service I pop the small black cover off the throttle body that covers the shaft bearings and spray it with chain lube.. Prior to fitting the solenoid my would syphon, I had the throttle body stick at WOT after passing a truck and was lucky to have enough room on the highway not to cause an accident and shut the car down. So if there is one thing you take notice of please JUST FIT THE SOLENOID with the kit. Since then I've used it for nearly 3 years constantly with E85 and haven't had any more issues.

use water and meth, and a 175ml jet. You wont need to adjust the tune unless it is stupid rich to start.

If you are using the water/meth as a substitue to pump fuel, a smaller jet will be fine. When I was still running pump 98 and a stage 2 pw cooler, with a 375ml jet, intake temps were down in the low 20s degrees celsius. you wont need to pull fuel out. Ive use a 625 or 675ml jet on 98 and the richer afr didn't hurt power at all. If you aren't going to use the water meth as a power added and just a safety (as I was originally as I was learning to tune and didnt want to grenade the stock engine) tune it without the water meth. Hook the meth up and enjoy.

Thanks Toads, Was just curious that's all. Considering I've already got the stubby ID's Im assuming I could use the FG injectors and the adapters I have now would fit, that makes the 1500's from KPM a nice option. I do like the ID's but I would rather have something that is rated for the Ethanol and that is why I was looking at the ID 1300's. Will do some logging and see where they stand now. I still run that Lucas ethanol additive even with the united pump E85, been running it for over 18 months straight without issue so far, Still stock rubber lines from between the sender and the surge. I replaced the intank stuff when I did the pump, and upgraded from surge to rail when I did the aftermarke reg and fuel rail.

What sort of coin/options available for larger than ID's1000s that I have currently. Currently running one of those new precision 6466 bolt on jiggas, Tune is unfinished due to some tyre related issues.

Im really happy with the 6466 bolt on so far, still plenty of tuning left as I need to run a correction for the eboost but 25psi falling to 20psi with the internal gate/actuator that they come with its making over 1500nm of torque and showing 450+rwkw with the semis on the dyno. (need to run normal tyres next time I try to tune)

I had to do the same thing. Instead of configuring my wideband that is permanantly mounted in the car to run to constant power, I just used the LM-2 with a female 12V socket to Alligator clamp adapter.

Turbotrana, Have you logged actual AFR whilst Cranking, and are you actually getting remotely close to it? I still havent played around with my cold starts yet, but had the cranking lambda table to around .6 and was getting no where near that either. But it is obviously having an effect if it has cured your issue. We are having some cold mornings again here now, will be perfect opportunity to try fix mine. Great info from everyone.

Dan's slipped yes. We were starting at Zero so to speak, with no clearancing info. And as mentioned, Dan's had the drive from Gladstone to Toowoomba to run in then over 700rwhp through. The one in mine is holding up well so far on my old 600hp tune as we seem to have gotten alot closer to the clearances required. But will be retuning to push more shortly. I'm waiting to get a few more tables added to my strategy as I tune with HP, Alot of so called ZF tunes are killing these boxes also.

Has it been tuned at all? If it has you can pull the tear tag info from hp tuners files. Not sure about SCT though. No labels sounds a bit dodgy though

Reece, Get in contact with Jamie and forced performance, he has a hypertune manifold on his own bf and wanted to go back to the stock lower half with plaz top, or a fg log style, might work out a bit cheaper

Must be a similar looking car around. I thought I saw a manual FG turbo ute at Benaraby running 122mph.

Also Luke, didn't you and toads test your .7 vs .5 back to back your the .7 out spooled the .5?

Water spraying the cooler is half arsed. If you going to do it....http://www.snowperformance.net/stage-2-maf-boost-cooler.html Full boost with the smaller 375ml jet, no quench, 19*intake temps and over 5 degrees of extra timing. You can run the smaller jet with not have to increase timing at all. Ive since stopped using it since I went to E85 but one day might see if there are any advantages or running both. I doubt there will be and will more than likely go back to a small jet just to keep the intake temps as low as possible.

Even if you tuner doesnt have SCT tuning software they should be still have SCT logging software and invest in a xcal 2 or 3 at the very least for proper datalogging. If you are seeming to have boost control issues, I'm nor entirely sure I would be fitting a heavier actuator as previously stated. In my opinion if you have an obvious hardware limitation ie a stock wastegate port I wouldnt be increasing the rating of the spring or preload on the actuator. It kinda sounds like your tuner has "tuned heaps of cars" and that most of those tunes are copy and past type scenarios. Is the boost tuned in closed/open loop and if so what is the over boost threshold set at?

Did you go to the larger exaust or get a port job in between your last tune and the new one? Removing the restriction could have decreased the back pressure on the cat side of the wastegate. This might have allowed the car to overboost as such to hold the boost uptop. I found the same issue with my own car, stock turbo and stock port job with 12lb actuator and xforce twin 2.5 system would hold 19psi to 6k rpm. Got the gate ported with big flapper and fitted twin 3" manta being the only changes, I could get it to peak at 19psi and fall over to 16psi by 6k rpm. One thing you can try before upgrading the actuator is put more preload on the one you have to increase the cracking pressure. You would have to get a retune though as it would overshoot your desired boost around peak torque. And you dont have to pull the turbo off to do it, just unbolt the dump, the put compressed air in the wastegate like to open the gate, this swings the end of the actuator rod out passed the back of the exhaust housing, you can pop the circlip off with a seal pick, then shorten the rod 1 or 2 turns then reassble and get it to your tuner another go

Have you got a dyno sheet for your 11ph?

Does his name start with G and end with reg? lol

Maybe they are confusing cyl one with "bank 1" as from memory the description says bank one for all I6 and bank one or two for v8"

You can circlip trick in car, just unbolt the dump off the turbo and move it to one side then use cable ties to tie it up to the exh manifold. Then apply compressed air to the actuator gently and it pushes the flapper open and extends past the turbine housing, a seal pick works well to pull the circlip off then you can pull the rod off the flapper and reduce the preload... It does definaayely sound like a preload issue. My 12lb actuator I have on the gtx I just fitted has around 7.5-8psi cracking pressure and is fully open at around 12psi, ive got around 80% wastegate duty for 19psi boost uptop.

Yes, We finished the box last night, Im out of town this weekend so he has to fit it on his own, will give it 1500ks for the new gear to bed in and see how it performs

One of the Simplest gearbox's Ive ever had apart in the most part....the complicated stuff is in the mechatronic's