45T-XR

Yeah thanks that was the plan, the only decision I have to make with the oil pump is whether to just do the billet gears and keep the standard housing or for an extra 80 bucks just go a whole replacement with billet gears and cast steel housing. I had a nov 02 xrt sedan for two years but decided to sell it when I bought my house to try pump some cash into the house while interest rates were low,plan was always to upgrade to a bf ute which im looking at getting probably early next year, so atleast the phoon motor will all ready to go with forged bottom end....damn I miss the xr6t, the bt-50 just doesn't cut no matter how many times I take it off road Thanks again for the input, I was leanin toward mahle pistons and atomic rods, Ive sent and email to nizpro to get hold of the rods but I dont think they do supply only for the rods, or they didn't on the website

Hi lads Just about to start tearing down a phoon motor for a rebuild, Interested to know what brand pistons and rods everyone is running Cheers

The throttle position sensor id say is your drama, I had this problem a thousand times when I was at ford, The early BA's had heaps of dramas with the TPS's causing this symtom, The early tps's failed frequently and ford new this and sourced a different one, the old style ones had a dimple in them the size of your finger tip, the newer style didn't have the drama, and I cant ever remember having to replace the revised ones, so they must be half decent, I wouldnt recommend grabbing a tps of your mates car, they can be a bit tricky, heres why The tiny little piss- ant screws ford chose to use to screw the tps to the throttle body have bulk loctite on the them and the start-stop for applied by a ratchet will break the screws are a pain the ass to remove as they are harder than the aluminium throttle body, the best way if found to remove then is to take the car for a drive and get it to operating temp, this softens the loctite, then us a 3/8 or 1/4 drive air ratchet or battery powered ratched to remove the screws as they supply a constant force in stead of stop start. From memory throttle bodies are over $500 to replace, that's if you go factory. While your replacing the tps, clean all the carbon build up from inside the throttle body as this reduces the passage of air bypassing the butterfly and causes havoc with idle parameters the car has learnt, and after that disconnect the battery for 20mins of so to erase the paramters learnt in the Keep alive memory, reconnect the battery and take the car for a spin, this should fix your drama Let us know how you go Hope this helps

The first aftermarket rods in the pic, what brand are they and how much did you pay for them? Ive got a phoon motor in pieces that I intend to rebuild, Ive only just started looking at rods, Ive found a set of par forged h- beam rods for under 1100 dollars. But the first ones look alot tougher, what pistons did you use on the rods?

Hi all I know its still relatively early days, but as anyone had a chance to clock up enough k's and managed to get down the strip in thier FG Cheers

Sorry mate im in Gladstone In central queensland. I don't work for a ford dealer anymore either, I finished me apprenticeship early, and done the Advenced tech training while I waited for ford to send me my papers then left. I regret is sometimes, escpecially now the FG coming along.

sorry I forgot to add that you need to adjust the cable up after you adjust the shoes, still pm me if you need help

Hey mate, I did my apprenticeship on the BA and thus have done that many handbrake adjustments its not funny, its not as simple as crawling under the car and tightening up the cable adjustment, Sometimes yes this will work but its relatively short lived. And Ive seen Other ford mechanics do it and screw it up. This is what Ive found to work best. 1- If you have tightened the cable up using the cable adjustment above the tail shaft, back it off to there is no tension on the cable and thus, no pressure on the rear handbrake shoes. 2- Raise the rear of the vehicle and remove the wheels and rear callipers and rotors, (there is a means to adjust the shoes through the rotors but I find if you do it my way it last alot longer) remove the rear shoes, pay close attention to the retainer spring inside the shoe, its a pain to refit. take the shoes and use a bench grinder or similar to take the edge of the inside and outside and the leading and trailing edges of the friction material on the shoe. This Stops the possibility of a brake squeel that sometimes occurs when going around corners, and the wheels and hubs move laterally and bind on the inner of the rotor. 3- Use 80 or 120 grade emory tape to scuff the friction material on the shoes and do the same on the inside of the rotor which is technically the drum, make sure there is no lip on the inside of the drum, although it varies with age and km's 4- Re-assemble the the shoes onto the hub with the bastard retainer spring, refit the rotor, taping the shoe to center it will make it easier. Spin the rotor on the hub and see how much drag the shoe puts on the rotor. If there is no drag, remove the rotor and use the tiny wheel to adjust it up, clockwise for more tention and vice-versa. You want to hear a slight woosh noise when the rotor drags slightly on the shoe. Ford has a special tool to aadjust though shoe to the carrect size, similar to a oversized calliper. and a spacer to measure how far the lever moves on the back of the hub but this is useless if the rotors are worn or shoes etc. By feel is the only way to go. I apologise if this seems long winded but my dealership used to charge 1.5hrs labour and do a half ass job, but they always came back. I used to spend about an hour to do the job right and never had a problem. Good luck, If you have any dramas pm me and I will give you my number and I will talk you through it.

I found all six seasons of transformers cartoons on dvd, needless to say I snapped them up. I will admit I love transformers but does anyone else kind of find it depressing how much we all contribute to a thread purely for transformers. haha

Check the wiring harness for the vct, When I worked for Ford I had that problem a few times when blokes would go and take the rocker cover off to plugs or coils, Its hard to screw it up because the harneses are actually different lengths and requires, but I had a typhoon do the same, it was fine whilst putting around off boost, then have no power and/or missfire, then the MIL (mulfunction indicator lamp for engine) comes on. If you get a code check done, you will know for sure if it is this problem because it logs codes for both intake and exhaust cams too far advance and retard which if you think about it is impossible to have too much advance and retard for both cams. and is thrown due to the cams moving as they do, then the pcm thinking its the wrong cam, hope this helps, good luck Mic

Myself and a mate of mine have mercury t's but where in gladstone, about 700k's away, Bulk fuel though, but I wouldn't mind another goldie trip.

Well it didn't so when I suss it out I will post pics

Fingers crossed this work, quite hopeless with a PC If it does its 45TXR Meaning force fed xr.

The only reason it seems you are able to leave the accelerator pedal in slightly is because they falcon accelerator pedal is slightly "doughey" the first section of pedal travel has little effect on rpm, this was a popular convern when the BA's first come out. When the falcon first arrived at our dealership, and us mechanics got to test drive them we also found this, Im not sure why this occurs, and must be part of the calibration in the drivetrain operation, because I have used the wds on countless cars and monitored the signals from the accelerator pedal on all of them with the them all showing to work smoothly and progressively on the graph. Just one of those things I supose but I actually prefer it now with the sprung button clutch cause I can blip the throttle on take off and not have the car rev so high. It works quite well cheers Mic

They saw you coming mate, I went to my local exhaust shop mate and for the exact same procedure was charged a whole $30. I checked the welds, nice pool effect and no splatter, and most of all no leaks. Pitty your on the other side of the country.

Atleast this thread indicates the general intelligence of the people that populate this site and hence drive these highly modified vehicles, in that we all agree that off the street training is a good idea, both to increse our skills in handling a car on the street, and to remove the urge from your system, I mean, if you have the opportunity to race your car around in a controlled environment regularl then it remeoves the urge for when your on the street. cheers

Do it when the is cold, if you open the reservior quickly when its hot coolant blast out and gives you a nasty scald, When I was working for ford, it was a glycol concentration of 33-50%, We never used to charge for a coolant concentration test so hopefully your dealer is as friendly as ours. cheers

Ford cant tell "when" the car was accessed by the scan tools in ba, like I said its only if the pcm has the latest calibration and the like, In bf however if the pcm is suspected of a flash it can be checked to see how many downloads and uploads from and to the pcm, so basically if the number of those dont match up with the number of factory flashes that have occured then that's pretty conclusive, you cant alter alter the record in the pcm, or that's what the queenslans service operations co-ordinator told me last time he was at our ford dealership

Im 21y/o and know the capabilites of theses kind of cars, and also the capabilites (or lack there of, of myself) Your concern is justified though and I will not argue with that, as there are many immature and dangerous drivers my age, and as you conceed, alot older as well. The only reason insurance companies can categorise us high/low risk but our age is purely because of statistics and there is no other guage on driving mentallity. Someone mentioned that experience is the only option, this is true and unfortunately the only way to get experience is to push things. This is where driver mentallity comes into play, are you responsible and push these limits in a controlled environment or on public roads. However its not that simple and I know for a fact where is live there isn't any facilites to accomodate this experimentation, accept for a drag strip, the nearest circuit is over 700km away. The government need to provide the necessary facilites. And also make changes to the licensing laws, and restricting the types of cars isn't the answer. Again, experience is the answer and todays youth needs to be put in dangerous situation ina controlled environment and teach the necessary skills to control the vehicle. But in the same token I have participated in a defensive driving course (due to the fact that the track day type course arent available in my are), it was pretty patheitc apart from two aspects, and that was actually seeing for my own two eyes what the difference in stopping distance verses different speeds, and gives you a visual of the multiplying factor involved. The second is the education and acknowledgement that the course wasn't to enhance your ability to control the car but to change that attitude to prevent that is causes young drivers to end up in the dangerous situations. Cheers

There is a test and tune this saturday nite, I just checked the site, http://www.benarabyraceway.com/meeting.html I wont be racing thought, Im gonna wait till I get the new gear and a tune....my poor poor T5.

I was working a mechanic for ford up until last week and didn't hear anything about so they must have kept if quiet, I will go have to chat to the boys and see what they have...If anything

The pulley is an interferene fit with the pump itself, meaning it has to be pressed onto the pump shaft, noramally power steering pumps ge noisey due to air in the pump causing the veins and rotor to cavitate. But the pics u showed seem to indicate that the pulley itself has failed, Ive had a customer car before that shagged a pulley and belt , It was due to the harmonic balancer pulley not being pulled all the way in on the crank, this put longitudinal (standing from the front of engine, a back to front misalignment) tension on the belt, this also loaded up on the powersteering pump pulley and destroyed it. Turns out the month before one of the older mechanics did a sump and timing cover gaskets which requires the harmonic balancer to be removed. So inspect all the pulleys on all other auxilleries and tensioner and idler. What you can do buy a new pulley and press it onto the old pump and try it. But it sounds like it has damaged the pump. Cant remember the price of a pump now though.

Nah, fords attitude is pretty much like I said, the u codes are pretty well dismissed on most occasions, but the code that causes alarm bells to rings for a dealer is a P2105. And its not logged 100% of the time, from my experience in having a play at work is caused by the actual flash tuning process, but once the code is cleared after the flash is didn't return. Another way they can tell is due to the calibration level of the vehicle, if ford goes to update you vehicle to the latest software calibration and sees that the filename is old if the technician makes the correlation between the current level in the car and what level the car should have, assuming the vehicle has been updated regularly, but this can be confirmed by accurate service keeping records indication when a pcm upgrade was carried out and exactly what calibration it was. But usually most of this is over looked as it was largely at the dealership I used to work for, unless you had to take the vehicle for a teat drive and notice how hard the vehicle went or if you were complaining of a powertrain concern, those two elements usually sends you looking for modified cars. cheers

I got a pretty good deal, I had a mate who bought the same set-up, he didn't like the rear sitting slightly higher by like 3mm, so he went a bought a set of lovells rear springs. So I got a set of rear kings for $50, then went to the local suspension shop and got the fronts for $120. Didn't cost me anything in labour accept for and hour in time. We had a free standing spring compressor at work so made it alot easier. but you can buy the small threaded jobs for relatively cheap also.

Hey mate, I was gonna give you a buzz the other day but I had to send my phone away and don't have your number anymore. Gave that paritcular dealership the flick, not enough coin, start my new job on the 28th, good dollars so the t should get a few new presents.