velluto

No idea what you are on about. Whats your point Harry? Velluto

Hey Toecutter - listen to this Guy and find a workshop that has the Atomic tool or is prepared to invest in one. It is the real deal. Velluto

The date is April 06. You dont have the LPG rods unless they were fitted after the car was made.

If any of you Aussies were thinking of coming across to the first of these street races in Hamiton (1 hour approx south of Auckland) then you may want to take a look at my auction on www.trademe.co.nz. Put 136784431 into the 'search' field. I got caught with too many so stuck them on with a very low reserve (less than my true costs!) so now they are going, going, going.......soon to be gone. Bugger! The auction closes tomorrow so dont piss around. They are a block of 8 (4 in front row and 4 directly behind) in what I believe is the best stand, the Stadium Stand. If you are serious and want to make an offer you can PM me. Thanks, Velluto

Can I just add for anyone in NZ......these short motor assemblys are also available through Ford dealers here. Same part number. Retail $3000 plus GST. I believe the trade margin around 20%. At that price certainly not worth buying in Oz and bringing in. Velluto PS: thanks for your PM 'Straughsberry' with product codes.

Can I just add for anyone in NZ......these short motor assemblys are also available through Ford dealers here. Same part number. Retail $3000 plus GST. I believe the trade margin around 20%. At that price certainly not worth buying in Oz and bringing in. Velluto PS: thanks for your PM 'Straughsberry' with product codes.

I also had a very bad Motec experience. Had to tie car to back fence at night to stop it wandering and shagging the neighbours cat. Use to howl at the full moon too. Dont go there Mate!

Personally.............I'd be rapt with that. I have similar power (333) and could only manage a 13.7 at Meremere in NZ (we notice over here that your times for same car/power are quicker in Oz - something to do with underarm bowling!?!?!?! - more likely to be the superior track surfaces you have). After that it was 14s with 60ft of 2.5-2.6. I am not good at getting off the mark. My speed same as yours 178-180kmph or 112mph. I was on streets also. I know my car can go quicker....right now the driver is the problem. Enjoy your '12 something' Mate. I am sure you will go quicker. "they" say you will take up to .75 of a second off with something like an E/T Street (not street radial) so that would take you into low 12s. The way I see it, I would still rather have a manual for the 99.9% of the time I am not tearing down the strip. Velluto

I hope this thread stays public as I am very interested in the outcome. Thanks Velluto

Thanks. Now I feel stupid. Will remember to tick the box in future. xrdreaming - nice one mate! Thankfully I dont have that problem anymore. Hope you Guys are happy with your new leader. I was surprised to see the poll which was 70:30 in favour of the old fart. We are hoping for change over here next year too. Wellington is now called Helengrad.

Am I doing somthing wrong? - I have sent a PM to one of the moderators twice now but it never appears as a sent PM in my Assistant. that's the reason I sent it a second time because I thought it had not gone the first time. Is there something else I need to do other than type my message and hit 'send'? I'm confused. Thanks Velluto

I was inspired by the F6 Nizpro conversion that BCL did and fitted the exact same exhaust with the larger mufflers. I like it. Totally quiet on highway, no drone at all. At idle it just hums away letting you know there is some serious power brewing. It will require internal wastegate mods or you simply wont control the boost with the turbo back 4" system. On first dyno run after Nizpro kit fitted, boost climbed through 17-18 psi and car was 380rwkw - too scary on stock internals. With larger swing valve, stronger actuator we settled at 13psi, 333. I have had some vibration issues with the exhaust, as its bloody fat but have these sorted now. We had to 'ease' a space under the car - that code for hit it very hard with hammer and reunderseal it but its all good now. The other tight spot is where the twin pipes go over the axle - I found that it knocled when I went slowly over speed bumps. With a small adjustment (no hammer this time) we gfixed that one too. X-Force is such good value compared to a Herrod or APS - in NZ anyway. You wont be disappointed. Velluto

After I fitted my Stealth FX I went out and tried it in all different settings doing hard shifts from 2nd to 3rd - I tried PB, atmo, 50/50, soft spring, hard spring and 50/50. Mine is fitted down by the throttle body as I have Nizpro stage 2 plus. I can confidently say that the least amount of lag, for me, is 100% atmo and hardest spring setting. Taking boost away at the butterfly clearly has an impact on throttle lag, for me anyway. Somewhere on this forum there is an excellent article by Simon Gishus that explains why. Hope this helps. Velluto

Thanks. I have a Nizpro kit.

My tuner thought it was worth checking this out using the SIDO number which is like the bill of materials when your car was made. My car was built in Feb 05. The same rods were used from July 2002 to April 2006, then they changed to the LPGs. So I missed by 14 months. The SIDO is on the white sticker on the drivers door pillar. Velluto

I also went with the Stealth for two reasons. 1) the quality of the GFB gear is awesome. You just have to pick one up and handle it for a few minutes to appreciate the machining tolerances, use of quality materials etc. And 2) I wanted the option of full PB or full atmo. As much as I love my throttled rooster sound, I also find it tedious at times and having the option of a completely silent car is worth the extra cost of the stealth. The valves and fittings are not the biggest around but then keeping a decent amount of boost at the butterfly is essential for throttle response and minimising lag (If you are reading this Simon - I finally understand why Nizpro dont supply BOVs as standard - I can minimise it by running the stealth at full atmo and the spring screwed down to the hardest setting - like not having a BOV at all in other words. You were right!) To compensate for the small fittings on the Universal Stealth I replaced the base with a 38mm one and also replaced the PB with the 33mm fitting. Both available as accessories from GFB. Hope this helps. Velluto

I had an older EL that did that once. Guy at Ford dealer got a rag soaked in petrol and cleaned out inside of throttle body, then disconnected the idle controller switch 'thingy' and let it run with it disconnected so the car would learn the correct settings once it was reconnected. Sorry I am not a techy person but whatever he did fixed the problem. Velluto

Hope I havent missed this within the thread but I could not see anyone mention the fact that Geoff from Snort Performance has been doing twin turbo kits for Falcons for a couple of years now. He started out on Calais and progressed to Ford. His prices seem very reasonable. Worth checking out. Velluto

I would agree with Jman. We had a combined Ford/HSV/Mustang day at the strip in Meremere, NZ today. I have a modded T with T56 and 333 rwkw. Another guy had a F6 manual with 312. Another member has a F6 auto with 314rwkw. The two manuals did not get under 14 all day. It was quite hot for NZ. The auto did a 12.8 first run. One of the problems with the T56 is you cant finish the distance in 3rd - you need to grab 4th for the last 100-150m which also kills your time. It was a very interesting day. I still prefer the driving experience of the manual and would not swap it for an auto. I think the results on a circuit day will be the reverse with the manuals outperforming the autos. We have that to look forward to. Hope this helps. Velluto PS: the auto was running Mickey Ts today too - I should record that just to keep the story totally accurate!

Your mechanic is 100% correct. I had same thing. Dealer could not locate it. Neither did the guy who fitted my Whitelines. Failed a Warrant of Fitness and they found the problem. Lower BJ on left hand side. Cheers Veluto

Thanks for that mls. Car is a 2005 MkII, done 40km. I will follow that up on Monday and hope I dont hit anything in the meantime!! Velluto

I have been concerned about my stopping ability. Decided to upgrade pads to EBC red stuff. Pads felt good and certainly more bite. Then decided to add braided lines and replaced fluid with Motul. Lines were fitted today. Took car for test drive and did a few too many stops from 140ish, without letting them cool. Result - lots of pad fade but worse than that spongy pedal and pedal distance seemed greater also. With car idling and foot on pedal hard it would sink slowly to the floor. Not good. Took car back and they re-bled brakes all round. Parked car for an hour or so to let everything cool down then tried it again. Pedal still goes to floor when I am sitting with motor running. Car seems to stop ok but still feels spongy and more travel than I had before. Of all the work I have done, this mod is the most disappointing so far and I dont know why. The pedal should be firm with good feel and definitely not sink to the floor at rest. Can someone please help me with this. The guy who fitted them said everything was very, very hot when I got back after the test drive and I could have boiled the fluid. What has gone wrong with this bit of work and what suggestions do you have to correct it. The braided lines were pressure tested after they were made and before fitting. And yes, they are compliant to NZ/Aust standards. The reason I did just pads and lines is that I am trying to delay the caliper/rotor upgrade for a while longer - financial reasons. Also I dont want to discuss which pads are better etc. The pads are not the cause of the sponginess and pedal travel. Any suggestions? Thanks Velluto

I had a Mk1 XR6T fitted with an M48. It was an absolute disaster. Ended up giving the car back to the dealer who sold it to me. They eventually took car back to standard and flogged it off. The Ford ecu and the Motec were essentially incompatible. At light throttle cruise the car would hunt, jerk, miss call it what you will. The OEm sensors and the Motec would be giving conflicting signals and the car didnt know what the hell to do. It also used to get disabled from time to time - one time after a club run I got stranded totally - the car would start and immediately rev to around 3000. Nothing under the foot pedal at all. You could turn it off and try again and same thing would happen. Did it over 50 times. After my troubles started I contacted previous owners - one guy almost killed himself when the throttle stuck on him. He had the fly by wire disconnected and had a manual throttle cable fitted. Feel free to talk to Simon Gishus. He was a great source of help to me during the time I was trying to get it sorted and will give you good advice. Frankly, I would not fit an aftermarket computer to the T. Its simply not a bottleneck until past 500kw and my Motec T was a complete dog - pleased to get rid of it. I now have a proper car - Nizpro Stage 2! Hope this is useful. Velluto