senna_T

As mentioned by others, the whole diff needs to be isolated so it doesn't use the centre bolt as a pivot. The fulcrum guys that recommended comfort bushes in your car should find another job...

upper and Lower arms are the same, Pretty sure K-frame is the same, steering rack is different.

Sorry, you have put an exhaust and a cooler on? I'd say you need to look at wastegate duty cycle or something like that. Maybe someone with experience in tuning can help you.

I think a couple of guys tried it not long after the ZF cars came out to try and improve drag times but 1st gear is so short it was not very successful on the strip. They kept banging the limiter almost immediately after getting started.

ACL is great, I used their bearings in my motor and it did 60,000kms before I sold the car with no issues from the motor

Hasn't been here for a few years now bud, got over it I think...

Spotted veva looking very drag spec heading towards full throttle Friday at wsid. Good luck mate

honestly I'm not sure on the angle re pre-load. From memory the actuator rod extends to open the gate bypassing the exhaust gas and slowing the turbine. In this way of thinking the rod could be on an angle because the swing arm was half open meaning that the pre load on the actuator was incorrect in the first place. but I'm no turbo/actuator expert...

So again, either fix the preload issue and get a dyno run to make sure the AFR's etc are safe or take the car to Bruce and get him to tune it with the new preload setting and see if it works right. If you have a stock motor then it won't take too much to bend a rod or burn through a piston if the car is running lean due to more boost and no corrected fuel map. more flutter means more boost, so you need to address that with these cars. The ECU may be pulling timing out when it senses any knock or pinging but that is a poor band-aid measure and not one you want to rely on for a long time.

So I would say that is your issue, the car only runs 5-6psi at full boost in standard form. I'd say you have an aftermarket actuator (the original ones aren't adjustable from memory) so any change to the preload could dramatically change the amount of boost being commanded.

So what the other guys aren't saying is that you are running too much boost and you will probably lean it out and destroy the motor without a tune... Fix the preload issue and have the car tuned so you know that the mixtures are safe etc...

There is a pipe that isn't seated properly and leaking boost...

I think checking the timing is probably the biggest clue there toad. If the turbine is being slowed then the motor can't pump the gases as efficiently and as a result timing would be retarded and I'm guessing the boost would come on more slowly too. I've never done any tuning, but could open vs. Closed loop tuning allow the timing to advance and retard like a factory tune? Or am I way off here?

No worries man, hope it helps you get a result!

Yeah right... I'm not an expert by any means, but I think it has a lot to with the position of the wastegate pipe in relation to where the rear housing starts to split in to the turbine wheel. If you notice the one I posted is right down near the flange where as the ones on the falcon housing is a lot further up so the turbulence created will slow down the turbine wheel.

Pain in the ass I know, but if you can get a new rear housing and have this done I think you would see the benefits of holding solid boost curves with the external gate

This is kind of what I'm talking about, see how the pipe has been cut to flow the gas straight from the flange at the merge collector?

Yeah but imagine the way the exhaust gas flows, to have the flange at a right angle like that means that it's going to come from the manifold and start following the rear housing around to the turbine but before it gets there it is running in to a wall half way around. I'll try to find a photo of what I think it should be.

I did it when I had the original crossover dude, car was about 4 months old and I was just keen to spend money on things! I wrapped it with an adhesive heat reflector (got it from repco). I never did any form of testing of course but I imagine it may help in some way at low speed...

Yeah, that's why... Where the flange has been placed is no good for exhaust flow, that is asking the exhaust to build up in the rear housing and then do a 90 degree turn back against itself to get out to the gate. It really needs to be flowing in the same direction as the exhaust gases so when the gate opens there is a smooth gas flow back in to the exhaust

Not sure mate, it's proved to be an issue in the past - perhaps the mounting points on the two cradles are slightly different. I've had customers measure up and found the control arm was the difference though.

As long as you use the entire sub assembly - cradle and arms etc

Out penrith way buddy, not really convenient for you!

Opt 3+ seems good - had a regular Opt3 in the GT for ages now and it has no probs. I remember driving Nigels (rosie) car with the Opt5 and that was really nice too, he did heeeaaappppsssss of kays with it too at 400+++++++++kw

Man it up mickus, with a nice light clutch they are a good thing for proper driving, not just traffic light grand prix.