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I stopped using ryco years ago as they kept draining back and ever time I started my Clevo in the morning it would start with main knock. I started using K&N and have never had those issues again. Mind you I bought a batch at good price of Purolator as they claim to be the best oem filter on the market. And have been using them in my T, no problems but no nut on bottom. The K&N at over $20 each start adding up service costs especially when doing 5000k service full Full Synthetic. Change your tool to a better one and should not have penetration problem again.

Yes maybe start of a crack but it would not have been long before it broke. See how bad the casting is in the dark area, very porous. These are the issues of cast iron, no consistancy in grain flow or partical bonding. Just wish ford had went with a Forged rod and steel crank for the I6. Maybe they learned the hard way and want to now put the rod problem to rest. Its only a baby TO4z with .96 rear. was pretty good as it had beat other cars with large frame turbos. Very good power right over rev range, made boost from as low as 1100rpm and max set 12psi before 2400rpm. High eco of 8.8l to the 100k. Was very happy till that plastic rod spoilt the fun. People really need to take note why the Coyote is so much better. Cast iron is really only good for bbq plates or pot belly stoves. Have a Happy New Year guys and Gals, Im outa here

Pretty sure TF's get a meet out of the rods, but even still yes very harsh and exspensive. that's what they where getting back when they where running 5's, maybe now running 4's it is only 1 run. Gee we are comparing Top Fuelers & planes now with the Coyote, dam this engine must be good. Heres a bit of Trivea for you cranny & I6 faithfuls TF = Alloy Block Coyote = Alloy Block I6 = Cast Iron Block TF = Steel Crank Coyote = Steel Crank I6 = Cast Iron Crank TF = Forged Alloy Rods Coyote = Forged Steel Rods I6 = Plastic Rods (Cast iron Rods) TF = 8 Cylinders Coyote = 8 Cylinders I6 = 6 Cylinders TF = 2 Cylinder Heads Coyote = 2 Cylinder Heads I6 = 1 Cylinder head TF = 32 Valve Coyote = 32 Valves I6 = 24 Valves TF = Orsm Coyote = Great I6 = Good See any sort of pattern there. One thing most of us will agree on is All GM = Sh*t Here are the high detail pictures of the cast iron broken rod of mine I said I would post up. Take notice how the grain goes everywhere. also how inconsistant the iron is, some of it is very dense and some very light. And here is the cause of it breaking Here is the fix

Sorry to hear, Im in same boat. Mine broke Halloween 2009 and still trying to budget to put it together. Im only needing valves and main girdle now and then will be able have my baby going again. Min dropped number 6 rod, hole in sump, piston broke, big chips out of bore on bottoms. head looks fine but yet to pull valves, they had hit piston so even if ok they are going in the bin. Not cheap to build like other engines. I maybe able to line up with a FG F6 bottom end for around $2800 from Ford if that helps you. Your going to have to strip your engine and find the extent of the damage. Good luck with warrenty, should be ok as you have not done mods, they will probably try to bullsh*t you just tell them you have witnesses and its not as if you would be hammering that hard at that time of night outside your mates house to break it. You have a receipt from towie I hope so you can back it up. Also even if you did nail it, hopefully none of his neighbours heard you, so if they decide to go ask any of them. Also dont let them try to bullsh*t you and get advice from fair Trading. Good Luck.

agree 100% with bunna Also forgot to mention top fuel Also use alloy conrods, with these engines making well Over 5000hp I would have to know the pressure the rods are taking. Just off memory a standard combustion engine generates 2-3 ton and a high performance engine over double that. I recall the old turbo Indy cars making over 1000hp 13500 rpm and 8 tons of downward force applied every combustion. So 5000hp plus hp would be a lot more than 8 ton of pressure also the rate that these TF cars accelerate/de-accelerate quickly load up then unloading. Pretty amazing stuff for weaker cheaper alluminium don't you think cranny. So why do v8 supercars use Titanium rods not aluminium.? It's because the alluminium fatigues quicker than steel And Titanium. TF rods are replaced regularly because of the fatigue from being stretched. A steel rod or titanium rod would not survive in a TF as it wont stretch/contract giving a dampening affect of oppossing force with rod traveling at speed with applied load and weight. The weight of the rods is also critical as the less reciprocating mass the quicker The mass can change direction with less force. A v8 sc does not have that extreme amount of load on it's conrods but has to be able to perform over long periods, they can't use alloy rods for there strength as it would fatigue. So next best thing is Titanium. Cranny you also implied that i6 ford taxis get huge kilometers from engine and because that theory of yours the cast iron engine block must be stronger. That is so far from the reason why they do get the k's. The reason being is they are run constantly not start stop. Engine start up is the worst time for wear. Factors like oil supply and operating tempetures are the offending wear problems. On top of that they are 99% of time driven very slowly as time equals money and driving them very easy helps with fuel consumption and longevity of the drive line. Something you would not be aware of is how bad a long i6 is on head gaskets, reason is because alloy cylinder head expands and contracts at quicker rate than cast iron and causes a grinding effect on gasket. The old Pre AU Falcons with there fibre head gaskets would blow at approximately 200k. Because of this problem, since Ford has changed to the Steel gasket it does not suffer the 200k known problem of the earlier fibre gasket. This head gasket problem also not as bad with Taxis again because of constant running and operating temp held. I suggest you learn a bit more cranny before making statements on things you don't know much about. Look at and study the pictures posted in this thread. You will find that the coyote is very good. Yet it can be better also by use of billet main caps not cast, the engine block skirts to have the horizontal bolts to the main caps as per i6 sump to main caps. And a step further would be to machine block flush with centerline of crank and run a 1 piece billet alloy main cap. This would help strength wise as all mains tied together and would not require having to fit main girdles for extra strength. Also fitting of stronger billet rods as the factory ones are good but not ideal for huge power. One area that use to be a problem with early alloy blocks was the cast iron cylinder liners, they use to move and cause problems and some manufacturers chose to go with treating the alloy bores to avoid the problems of liner movement. This resulted in excess wear and making the blocks a throw away item as to expensive to bore and treat again. With the design of the cylinder liners now and the fitting processes the problems are fixed Maybe that's why you think the alloy blocks are not as strong from the history of them. The gen 3 designed was a throw away item as they could not be rebored and could only accept a 5-10thou hone. Can't wait to see the potential of this coyote, we will see great things from it.

Guess what Top Fuellers run alloy engine blocks, over 5000hp. Cant be to weak then can it. Differance again is cast verse forged. Also search the most powerful Mitsubishi 4 cylinders and you will find that they are using billet alloy blocks,cnc machined from forged billet blocks, same as top fuel engine blocks. Also when these forged parts are done they make sure grain flow is in the best direction to make it very strong as well by compressing the molten steel makes the molecules bond tighter. A forged part of the same size as a cast part is heavier from being compressed. Try breaking a board at right angle to grain, then try breaking running parrallel with grain. Same principle here but stronger with metals. Cast iron you will find the particle grain going what way it pleases and is a loose bond. I will try to post up a high res close up of my broken rod, you may be able to see how bad the grain is. A way of improving cast iron is to add more nickle to it, it makes it stiffer but at same I think it makes it more brittle, and that's its limiting factor of adding high percentages of nickle. Also the gm guys are getting good power from there alloy blocks. Compare the design of our I6 engine and you will find the bottom end is very old tech when compared to Euro and Asian cars. The best thing with the bottom end that has been done is the block has lost useless weight with thickness reduced and ribs added for the strength. Compare pre ea engine blocks with the newer and you will see what I mean. Also the sump now being extra main cap support helps for strength. The crank is still old tech with better counter weight design and few other things. The oil pump is good design except material used for the gears. The top end is as good as others on the market. the bottom end limits it power the topend is capable of. The bottom end fails due to the old tech used. If Ford would redo a alloy block I6 with block skirts encasing the mains, make caps a 4 bolt with outside studs angled/splayed and bolt each side from the extended block skirts to main caps as per the sump to main bolts on current design. add a forged crank with full counter balance go large on bore and bring stroke down to make it squared it would be every bit as good as the new Coyote bar displacement. Other than that it cant compare.

HI PSI Wow, I understand engines but have never got into sound systems. Thanks for your help. Now Im using a Seductive Sounds Fiberglas encloseure and never have checked its volume. I wanted something that looked factory and didn't rob boot space. It is somewhere between 20-30 liters, (Should fill it one day to get actual volume) I was doubting the Amp not for its brand as its JBL but because its a 6 Channel and I have never seen a multi channel amp work as well as a dedicated amp eg mono designed for Subs. Got to have another look at the amp but I do think of memory it was 50wrms off the 300wrms JBL Sub rating. The amp when not bridged can power the sub to full volume without breaking a sweat, no distortion but not loud. Now when I do bridge it I get to about half volume and it starts to trip its saftey, so I persume either the amp is not storing the instant power required from the sub. Now battery is boot mounted and I have used adequate cables so power supply should be fine, so it comes down to the JBL amp. Will see what happens when I do get a decent Mono amp. I have always used quality leads, and connections as being mech minded and having done quite a bit of auto electrics, I know how important a good connection is and supply. The daughter bought the Clarion as a deal from autobarn, its sub mentioned, with Clarion model 420 amp (Not at home again so cant give its full model number), Sound Pro Box and Fusion Cable kit. Was very good priced at $275 concidering amp was $299 on its own. Sub box is not going to be used as it looks crap as none of its angles match the R33 boot. She has decided to get the Seductive Sounds Fibreglas box and going to get a 2nd to match later. here are some pictures of my BA box Get some pictures of it fitted tomorrow

Just curious but doesn't a cooler change affect Insurance anyway as its been changed from the factory cooler that was attached to the vehicle for crash testing compliance? I would still prefer the HDI setup as the first FG 10sec pass was with a HDI Cooler, that in itself talks. Search for the White RDP car to find its details. by memory it was near standard bar hi-flowed turbo, exhaust, IC and tune. The HDI kit is also alot cheaper as seen it as low as $1300. I think the insurance issue about removing the old coolers brackets is not a issue as its not structual unless the cooler is classed as a structual part of the car. The way the HDI mounts up is more solid going by pictures I have seen of fittment.

Don't know if the herrod shifter is as you say but I find my billet industries shifter to Be very easy on throw and can smash gears flat shifting, mine you only done that a few times to see how it copped. It felt so much quicker accelerating but at same time I was also thinking what the drive train must be feeling. I get no rattles or vibration from it, never miss a gear. My daughter owns a R33 low k's non turbo, it's gear shift is crap compared to my BA. So easy to go 2nd to 5th, miss gears, slight vibration, does feel softer but at same it feels spongy where as my BA billet industries feels firm and very positive more like a sports car not a track racer. I don't like vibrations or humming sounds as I like to listen to clear music while driving every. I have found the Billet industries shifter to be quick, smooth, positive, accurate, quite It does everything better than what the B&M shifter did. The B&M made driving unpleasant and I dreaded everytime I had to drive it. I had standard shift in the BA with t5, changed box to t56 with Mal wood modified quick shift, was better than oem, I then purchased the Billet industries one and could never imagining a better shifter. Let us know how it goes, maybe they have improved it, picture from that repco advert looks Same so maybe not. Good luck That's my view.

Ok beleive you but we are talking about main girdle here. And maybe rods are the same but the sump is not and by the sound of it the main girdle is also different along with cylinder head, dipstick position and something with the engine mounts. So there are differances with the Typhoon & FG F6 but as you said in your 2nd sentance the rods are the same, not needing to know that as I have Argo Rods in my build. Im going to draft up a plan to have a main girdle laser cut so will keep anyone who is interested posted. Also have a few contacts to sorce Main Studs. Just a bit hard right at present at this time of year as no one is open for business or to busy. Other than that the Atomic product is pretty good.

One other thing maybe with the standard disks I found them to get hot very quickly when driven hard, Excessive heat may also be a contributing factor as well as if the grease is breaking down it wont lubricate. Bought my BA with 80k on clock making 275rwkw and the factory brakes where useless, brake fade badly. The first thing I changed was the front brakes to AP Racing and car has done 126k and never a problem with bearings and I do drive it very hard, and making even more power now or well before the number 6 conrod broke. Dont know if previous owner ever had bearings done, I havnt got any receipts showing so and have receipts for numerous other mostly minor issues though. What grease did you use also, maybe its not up to requirement same goes with factory spec'd grease.

I bought one for a T5 in EF XR6 a few years ago, found it to be very hard to shift, it didn't have the rubber damper as per factory lever, and could not use factory lever as bolt holes different. Not using the rubber damper made it vibrate. The one I got for it came with it's own billet alloy lever, had 2 large bolts to stop throw as per the Aus made rip shifter. I personally would never buy another after that one, I have a billet industries shift in my t56 now and it is very smooth and quick, smoother than factory and quicker. Also very well priced, and looks like it cost a fortune as very high quality in material and design. I have bought and used b&m products before and have always been happy, however that shifter I purchased for the EF XR was a pile of crap.

Ok found that sump is completely different due to different crossmember And looks like pickup is towards the rear not at the front as per BA - BF. Main Girdle helps stiffen the block due to the crankshaft flexing under high load The more boost and revs the worst the flex and stronger bracing required. I think the Atomic Girdle is a 10mm piece of billet steel so compared to The factory 2 separated piece rails, one either side held together by the thin Baffle/Windage tray is only really good in standard power plus minor power increase. Another advantage of tying the main caps together is that the block does not flex so bad that can cause head gasket failure. I was going to just use the standard girdle for now but have since changed plans and now putting finish of my build off till can afford a good girdle and studs saves stuffing around removing engine again. Just means I have to be patient and wait till funds permit.

Thanks for that TonyD I had another JBL 12 in a TX3 years ago and it was orsm, out cranked brothers twin Alpine's same car and also a mate who had 3 Kicker 12's. Was shocked on the mates kicker sub as it was a big dollar setup with multiply amps. Had one neighbor say his cup of tea was vibrating in his highset house the other neighbour from otherside popped his head over the fence while in was sitting in car with earmuffs on tuning it. Got out to see what he wanted and he tells me his neighbor has asked if he could get me to turn it down as his house is falling apart. And yes could hear it coming from a very far distance also. Iam disappointed at present with this new JBL but it may be the amp as it is the 6 channel JBL. Also not running a quality crossover As was in the tx3. I ran a cheap tenvox 4x100 amp with 2 channels bridged for the sub in the tx3. This amp even though was only a cheaper was pretty orsm, audio tech from Autobarn told me to hang on to it (in didn't) as apparently the last audio comp at the time, a car running these amps!Took out 3rd place. I have bridged the JBL and it's a bit louder (still nothing on the tx3 Jbl) but it starts to trip the amp after half vol. Maybe I need a capacitor and a decent crossover. Also wanting to get a good Mono amp.

HI PSI They look orsm So how much where they and did you get a rear one. Anyone want to buy a pair of near new genuine BF F6 grills so I can get these.

And mine has Allen key bolts so you can turn top to align hose to what direction needed.

Looks similar to my one except mine is Black anodized. I got mine from super cheap on special for $50 off memory. I have faced my outlets toward the firewall so hoses run at rear of engine to Under the intake plenum (Plazmaman) to breather on the rocker cover. Can't show picture as engine out.

Should not have worry about the cams, not as if there quality is bad in standard form Seen worst aftermarket Cams. Springs and Valves though well a good set of Comp Cams that will handle twice the boost higher RPM as well big Power can be Purschased for between $400-$1000 and a set of Titanium or quality SS Valves for anywhere between $400-$1000 as well. It's not that expensive comparing it to the price our Aus supplier/manufactuer sells valve train for the I6. The I6's valve train is none the better then the Coyote's anyway and needs same replacements when pushing higher power levels. Also have the valve springs been changed in the 11 second GT's & GS. From what I have heard they havn't. I'm pretty sure the I6's Springs have been changed on every 11 second car. How sweet is that bottom end. Could some chuck up side by side pictures of a I6 & the Coyote Crank, Bottom end. People may get a better idea of how much better it is. Should see how ordinary the I6 crank really is with it's casting dags and corse angle grinder balancing marks. The rods are so much better in material but still very small beams, will still need better rods At the extreme power limits. The bottom end design is very good with it's main cap support aided by the engine block. The I6 is aided by the sump. The more compact design helping in bottom end strength as the larger, Longer the most Flex occurs. Should be even cheaper for a billet main girdle too being shorter less material. Demand and supply will dictate that more so. With it's design though it probably won't need a girdle till pushing over 1000fwhp. Whats the story on the in board exhaust engine. Is this the set up I had heard talk on a twin turbo inboard engine Ford are developing. Very similar to BMW.

Ok first of all what is the best 12" sub out of these Clarion WG 3010 JBL GTO 1202D Fusion Reactor Here is the story. My daughter wants to purchase a dual 12 Fusion Reactor set up for her R33 She has the clarion not fitted already but now wants to go with the fusion setup. Im wanting to know first if the dual Fusion setup would better than the single Clarion. And if it is I need to know if I should get the Clarion off her and fit it to my BA which has the JBL currently in it or should I stick with the JBL. JBL GTO1202D sensitivity 93db Power Handling 300Wrms- 1200Wpeak Dual voice coil 2.0" (51.0mm) 1-4 ohm Clarion WG 3010 Sensitivity 83db Power Handling 300Wrms-900Wpeak Single Voice Coil 2" Kapton 65oz (1.92kg) Strontium Ferrite Magnet 4 ohm

Great spot, it's where and how fitted mine. Good price also as will help out people who have not the skill to do themselves. Only one thing though, are you using slots in stead of holes as different catch cans Have different bolt spacing. One hole one slot should be adequate.

Iboo57 Yes I know it's out if production but with the new engine Being so much more efficient and that there is a few Running in some euro sports car championship I would think the new engine will be of demand especially if it's Needed to stay competitive. Seen a few glimpses of the racing and the Ford GT was at top of the championship and doing real well, Don't know if it won ir not though. I was only saying how good it would be in the US Ford GT. Not that they will or won't use it, hope they do. Merry Christmas all Check under your trees in morning if you have been good You may get a New FPV GT. If you have been sorta good you may get a F6 If you have been bad you will get a Expensive Daewoo camira hsvssgts v20 r8nothing Time to go do the Santa thing Cheers have great safe Christmas SteveR Doesn't really matter if the B series F6 ran 12.5 Thing is it would not have done it at standard boost. The real compare will be once we see a tune only no boost added i6. Problem being everyone gets tune with more boost because it's the cheapest Power adder for turbo cars to a point. As for supercharged you have to purchase or have made different pullies to change Ratio to increase boost. But the best thing is when you change manifolds, exhausts, Air Intakes etc you make the Engine more efficient and boost doesnt climb to reticulessly dangerous levels as what happens with turbo cars with poor wastegate/boost control eg i6 Fords. Merry Christmas once again got go get these presents out.

If you get the 2011 it will sound as if its a newer car, better when resell. What would you buy a 2010 or 2011 As that's first thing people look at, then what actual date, milage options etc. Even though the 2010 is a Dec car the Jan 2011 is a year newer. What years your car?

Mmm Cobra, just have problems with front getting over taken by rear. Maybe GT40 Replica now we are really starting to dream Wonder if Ford US has any of the SC Coyote/Miami destin for the Ford GT. Lookout Ferrari, Lambo, Aston, Porsche & GTR Hope The stang has improved enough chassis wise to make the most out if this new power plant. Good to see it running the M' series BMW's and CLK Merc's. Another good one would be to fit one in a Focus rwd or even better awd. Should be able to fit with a little cut here and there. A guy down nz has fitted a i6 in one so why not the coyote. Even if gets mid mounted, don't rear passengers. Can't add drool smiley as using mobile version. So 11.5 has it got any quicker yet, what did we establish the best tune only 1/4 to be for a I6 Now we also need Cat back 1/4 Should really be both at standard boost to make it fair Or should I say unfair for the i6. It's going to be very interesting once we see people start to up the boost.

And it's o ly just begun There will be quicker to come Can't wait to see the GT pushed to it's limit and more Wouldn't this drive train be orsm in a TD Cortina or Capri Just dying to see what aftermarket engine blocks come out, imagine a huge 4.125 bore as in the old School Dart Blocks, maybe even larger pending it bore spacing. Just say Ford do Bring back the 351 in this set up 4" bore & 3.5" stroke. With that tuff as bottom end, those sweet 4v heads (here we go again 351 4v) and the SC what a package. GTHO look out.

Sorry that's what I ment eucalyptus oil not olive. Olive may work but be a but messy. The t5 is actually a t5z and is different then the earlier boxes. For one it uses a csc not throwout bearing on a clutch fork. Also the earlier boxes are cable clutch not hydraulic. If you do buy it, make sure you can source the t5z or have money readyvfor a t56. Bolts straight in as long as you use the t56 crossmember. Clutch is the same etc. Have seen the t56 go for as little as 2k. Can't use the v8 t56 either. All that in mind your spend is going to be $15k to $20 pending price you pay for t56. Should be able to buy a bf 6sp man for that. It's not hard to get these cars to 280rwkw and I would suggest if that's what you want look for stock one that has not been flogged and start the mods the way you want to. If it's been tuned for a while it probably has the original capa flash box. These are obsolete and can't be tuned anymore so you could be stuck with the tune it has ir you will be up for a new tuner which is going to set you back more money anywhere from $500-$2000 pending tune box and tuner, even more if want other stuff added like ic, exhaust, wastegate mod etc. Another thing is to watchout for the BA is a lot coped oil starvation due to turbo oil feed filters not being serviced. This I also found out the hard way. Stupid me went with my BA just because itwas making good power over a offer on ford springwood ex manager car black bf f6 6sp t56 full option 5k on clock for $50k neat. The BA was $29. Regret it badly now as every thing that had been done has been turfed and better components replaced. So this BA has cost me more than the f6 and even though it looks like a bf f6 it isn't. Hope I help you not to make same mistakes. That power is entrapping. Be smart buy a better foundation.